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04 Excursion 6.0 Heater Hose Leaking

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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 04:26 PM
  #31  
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I'm currently looking to replace the y section on the right side near the turbo on the firewall and I have no idea how to get those plastic one time use clamps off... I rather not ruin the heater hose. If I have to let me know. Thanks in advance. This tread I doubt will ever die... Lol
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 04:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by USAF_POL
I'm currently looking to replace the y section on the right side near the turbo on the firewall and I have no idea how to get those plastic one time use clamps off
I used a cutoff wheel on a Dremel.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 04:41 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by USAF_POL
I'm currently looking to replace the y section on the right side near the turbo on the firewall and I have no idea how to get those plastic one time use clamps off... I rather not ruin the heater hose. If I have to let me know. Thanks in advance. This tread I doubt will ever die... Lol
You need tiny hands. They have tabs you have to push in at the same time like a fuel line connection.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 09:23 PM
  #34  
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Here's a photo of the leaky, rotting plastic couplers:





I used a pair of Channel-Locks, threw a Towel over the Couplers and crushed them out of the hoses:





Pointing the hoses downward, I cleaned out stray pieces of plastic with a pick...
Do one hose at a time, and make sure that crushed plastic pieces don't fall back into the hose (while crushing) by pointing down and using the pick:





Then the 'Y' fitting was installed:



Good Luck to all!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 08:05 PM
  #35  
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Hello everyone! I was checking to see how the Leader Stainless Wye fittings were holding up? I received mine and thought the wall was mighty thin...




 

Last edited by Money-Pit; Apr 21, 2021 at 08:07 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 08:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Money-Pit
Hello everyone! I was checking to see how the Leader Stainless Wye fittings were holding up? I received mine and thought the wall was mighty thin...
Mine is perfect. It’s stainless, if it cracks there’s something wrong. Much better than plastic or cast aluminum and the perfect shape. Install it and don’t go gorilla on the clamps or use constant tension clamps and forget about it. I was the OG so if mine is still going they should be fine.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 03:12 PM
  #37  
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I know this is years old, but I want to say thank you all for the excellent information here. Going to try to do mine in the next couple of weeks.
 
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Old May 31, 2024 | 02:02 PM
  #38  
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What is this upper "Y" piece called? Everything I can find like the XDP coolant pipe Y or Mishmoto seems to be for the lower pipe under the degas bottle. I cannot seem to find any pipes for this upper pipe next to the turbo? Also, would stainless be stronger than aluminum as long as it is "weldless" ?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 05:34 PM
  #39  
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Would this be the right one for a 2004 excursion. Passenger side next to the turbo? I want to make sure I get the right size
https://us.h2oinnovation.net/us/y-ba...-3-4-3423.html
 
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 02:39 PM
  #40  
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I made an account here to help out a few people reading this. I was struck by this problem in my 04 excurtion 6.0 and after seeing the dorman fix for $20 I jumpred on it but the Droman replair kit is 5/8th piping and the Excursion is 3/4. you may be able to tighten the livving hell out of it to make it work but what I found was a brass 3/4 x3/4 x 3/4 tee at lows for $5. they have both a barbed and sharbite that work (the sharkbite one is just a different barb and not a sharbike connector). that gets you back on the road same day. then I ordered a stailess Lateral Tee 3/4" for $17 online.

for the others adding copper and brass be aware that copper, brass,Steel and aluminum dont mix especialy copper and aluminim. I am a a netwrok enginner by trade and I have seen watercooled PC's that mix aluminum blocks and copper radiators tear themselves apart in under 2 years. It wont be fast but I also dont want to be destroying my radiator just for a cheaper fix. get stainless in there when you can or go back to plastic. sure plastic is why we are in this mess but I got 20 years out of it. If my truck is still on the road in 2042 I will be happy to put in another plastic tee.

As for removeal I didnt see alot of instructions. I saw mention of a dremil so thats what I did. I very carfuly used a cutting wheel to remove the plstic bands holding it all on only to find that the tee is so britle and the pipe is so stuck it want worth my time. I then crushed the whole thing with chanel locks and used a pick to pull all the peices out and off the walls. If I dod this again I would go strait to crushing it all.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2024 | 07:33 PM
  #41  
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Guentha,
Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and got the 3/4" 3 way T at one of the maple sugaring supply companies. I am glad after reading your post that I just went with that. It wasn't too bad of a fix (just awkward like everything else that should be simple). I got in there and felt where the nipples ended under the rubber hose an used a PVC pipe cutter that just sliced through the rubber pipe. I did this right where the nipple ended. That way I didn't need to try to clean the nipple out. It worked out well and has been going strong for a few weeks without any signs of leaks.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2024 | 08:17 PM
  #42  
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Reviving an older thread. My heater hoses started to leak today, at an O'Reilly auto parts of all places, more than a leak, it was a gusher.

I know my hot water valve will close when EATC is off and while at Otreilly's I bought a hose clamp off tool and coolant. I got the truck home and saw what was leaking, the dreaded Y-Pipe. I cut 2 hoses and removed the other one and replaced it with a Dorman T-Fitting from OReillys (2nd trip to return a wrong part). The plastic T-Fitting is not ideal but works.

I believe the OEM hose is still available: but $130 is pricey and how do you access the ends?
Hose

I am going to look for a better alternative but hopefully this will work until I find another solution

 
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 09:30 AM
  #43  
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I have a new to me 2004 6.0L Excursion and am finishing up my 'big coolant flush'. Since I'm monkeying around with coolant already and its currently empty, I thought this would be a good time to pre-emptively replace this plastic wye with the stainless wye. I figure that its probably going to leak at some point, so fix it now when its convenient. I received mine in the mail today and its decent enough quality despite made in China. Its certainly a lot better than the plastic one. Thank you guys for the link to purchase it. I have two questions:

1. Is there a specialty tool that can actually remove the plastic hose clips/clamps properly without crushing or destroying them, or were they intentionally made to never be removed? I won't reuse them, but mostly curious to ease disassembly.
2. It appears that all the pictures posted in this thread, and for my Excursion, have a missing vacuum line on the heater hose control valve. Is this just a vent to atmosphere or is there a vacuum line we should be replacing? (see below)




 
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 12:44 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 4Kids
I have a new to me 2004 6.0L Excursion and am finishing up my 'big coolant flush'. Since I'm monkeying around with coolant already and its currently empty, I thought this would be a good time to pre-emptively replace this plastic wye with the stainless wye. I figure that its probably going to leak at some point, so fix it now when its convenient. I received mine in the mail today and its decent enough quality despite made in China. Its certainly a lot better than the plastic one. Thank you guys for the link to purchase it. I have two questions:

1. Is there a specialty tool that can actually remove the plastic hose clips/clamps properly without crushing or destroying them, or were they intentionally made to never be removed? I won't reuse them, but mostly curious to ease disassembly.
2. It appears that all the pictures posted in this thread, and for my Excursion, have a missing vacuum line on the heater hose control valve. Is this just a vent to atmosphere or is there a vacuum line we should be replacing? (see below)

That's just the pivot for the arm that moves the valve. The vacuum line goes on the end of the barrel towards the bottom of your picture.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 04:16 PM
  #45  
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Ordered this from a Maple Syrup Store in New Hampshire. Stainless steel 3/4" tube, I haven't installed it yet, Ex had other things to do this weekend.


 
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