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Old Mar 13, 2003 | 06:35 PM
  #16  
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basic ignition questions?

Originally posted by pward76
I think we are talking about two different things. Maybe I'm not being clear. If the goal is to get oil to the critical parts without any initial wear, the oil pump shaft must be spun. I wanted to make sure that someone doesn't think that by cranking the engine without firing it, they are eliminating the possibility of that initial wear when they do fire the engine.
Yes, we are. I crank the motor over after an oil change until I get pressure again. I can't stand waiting for the oil pressure during the initial actual "start". I've heard too many motors knock too long to take the chance.

Cranking after oil change, it's easy to get pressure because the oil pump still has some oil.

On initial rebuild, yes, you can't crank long enough to get pressure because the pump won't prime until you give it enough speed to pump the air out.

I posted because I wanted to warn anyone with an MSD to NOT disconnect the coil. All I meant was DO NOT disconnect the + side of the coil to crank over without spark. Me too, as for the off-topic posts...

Feel free to carry this offline if you want to, to krewat@optonline.net

ak
 
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Old Mar 14, 2003 | 12:03 AM
  #17  
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basic ignition questions?

Gtex, thats a fine looking 67. I rarely see them that clean out here. Your 69 is a real beauty. Thats the biggest honking gas tank I've ever seen in one of those!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2003 | 08:16 AM
  #18  
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basic ignition questions?

Getting back to ignitions here.......any of you guys who are running ANYTHING but a Ford Duraspark dizzy in your engine are spending WAY too much money. The magnetic pickups in the ford dizzys have never failed me. In fact, I never seen a failed Duraspark dizzy. Doesn't mean it can't happen, but there are better places to spend your money. The Ford control boxes leave something to be desired....I use the Ford dizzy and a LX101 control box ( Chrysler ) and a Jacobs computer. Runs wonderfully at any temperature, even well below zero, and has plenty of amperage and voltage for the .080 gaps I like to run. DF
 
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Old Mar 15, 2003 | 09:13 AM
  #19  
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basic ignition questions?

I got the magnetic pickup replaced, and there is signs of fire. I actually ran it around the block this morning. But it is still having a hard time starting. I made need to look at the starter connections.

With this cam, it likes to run a high initial advance, which likes a high RPM start.

Despite all my efforts, I still lost the dizzy position while trying to stab the pump shaft, so I had to go hunting for the initial timing.

On the good side, I didn't drop the pump shaft as I 've done before.

Do you guys think I should just break down and get a high-torque starter? Anybody else running one?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2003 | 01:06 AM
  #20  
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basic ignition questions?

I do. Its either a powermaster or a tilton...don't recall offhand. I remember those were the two that seemed the best. I'm sicker than heck right now otherwise I'd crawl under and double check. I think they are worth the money. You do have another option though. Before I did this, I threw in a second battery with an isolator and their combined cold cranking amps spun my pos reman starter like a top. It sounded like a phriggin air tool it spun so fast and easy. With the mini I mostly I like the fact I don't have to drop my header to drop the starter anymore

edit: almost forgot....high enough of an advance and it will be rough starting too. How much initial you run? Check your connections but if your like me you'll end up having to either drop in another battery and/or a high-torque mini.
 

Last edited by proeliator; Mar 16, 2003 at 01:08 AM.
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