my holley 4180 on my 351 HO in my 84 f150 has a decel throttle kicker that has no vac hose attached to it. I'm not to good at deciphering vac diagrams, and was hoping somebody might be able to tell me where I would hook it up at. I do have a hose from the area of the carb just above and slightly forward of the choke coming out of the main body at an angle that isn't connected to anything, should I just put that on and see what happens? I also see attached to the very rear of the carb I have some kind of round thing about 3 1/2-4" in diameter that has a 1/2" little stem looking thing sticking out of it with no hose attached. is there supposed to be one? only reason I am fiddling with it is truck idles fine in park, and drives fine, but at stoplights/signs the rpms drop way down, and when I warm it up, I have to give the gas a little punch as soon as placed in gear or sometimes will stall out. also when coming out of turns if I gas it too quick, she stalls for a second then kicks right back in and thrust forward from the gas that didn't burn during the sort of stall.

 

Post a picture of your Vacuum Hose Routing sticker located under your hood; here's mine
for reference:

 

Connect any accessories to the vacuum "tree" that plugs into the back of the intake, i'm assuming you need full manifold vacuum.

The only port on the 4180 that offers full manifold vacuum all the time is the large PCV port at the base. The long skinnny one next to it is a ported source, which only offers vacuum above idle for the vacuum advance. The small gold/silvery/brass/shiny looking port by the choke on the passenger side of the carb is for the EGR from what I have read, it does not provide vacuum at idle either as I hooked a vacuum guage up to it and blipping the throttle would only put it up to 5" of vacuum. You may also have a silver/alluminum port on the side of the carb directly over the choke, this never provides vacuum. If you do have it then it is supposed to be "looped" over to a port on the choke housing.. basically under the secondary diapragm housing.

Here is a picture of them for reference:

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f...craft_tags.jpg

The thing you are refering to that is coming out of the back of the carb leads into the float bowl to vent out fuel vapors when the engine is not running. Therefore, plugging it would be the correct thing to do; as airflow is not allowed though it with the factory setup; when the engine is running. If it is not plugged then you are letting air into it unlike the factory setup.. or any other holley that doesn't have that port period.

 

ok, the port that is sticking out above the id tag in the picture is the one I'm talking about, I don't have the other one. again, it isn't connected to anything just like the pic, is this normal/ok?
when I get a chance, I will try to get a pic to show y'all what I'm saying. but again, the decel throttle kicker has no hose on it, so I don't even know if it's doing anything, if ti is, then I guess I'll need to mess with something else to try to raise the "stopped in gear" idle a little. I've adjusted the idle when in park to about 700rpm, and would like to get it to idle in gear at the same. thanks for the responses guys

 

You should plug it, it shouldn't affect your idle but it would be a vacuum leak when driving around. You can get an assortment of vacuum port caps at autozone cheap if needed

About the decel throttle kicker, mine has never been hooked up. My truck didn't come with this carb and I never hooked up the throttle kicker but I may try it one of these days to see if it does anything. I'm not exactly sure how it goes.

My truck has the same problem with the idle at a stop and when putting it in gear. I have not been able to figure it out. My only guess is that it has something to do with the idle circuit since idle is the only time it has the problem. I have heard of fouled sparkplugs causing it though, not providing enough spark at idle after the rpm drop from putting it under the load of the torque converter....

 

sorry, pics not loading right, let me try again

 

First off....

Bejeezus, buddy, nobody will ever accuse you of making your pictures too small.

I don't know how that decel thing fits into the system and your vacuum hose routing pic
is too blurry for me to be able to read, but...

Looks like somebody's disabled some of the smog controls.


This is your EGR valve, it looks to be disconnected.

How does the engine run?


The yellow thing is a VCV on that diagram which is a Vacuum Control Valve, used to
control vacuum to smog- & engine-control devices (EGR valve in particular).

At this point, it doesn't matter if it's plugged or not.

 

The 4180 has a DASHPOT, not a vacuum kickdown.
There was never a line attached to it.
It just keeps the throttle from slamming shut.

 

lets try this one more time.
the first arrow is where the hose I'm holding is coming from, what connects to arrow 2


should something connect here?


should these be connected somewhere or plugged?


kinda hard to read, but this is the sticker of vac diagram

 

Nothing connects to arrow number 2

In your second photo the EGR should connect to the three way connection in the lower left of your vacuum diagram.

In your third photo the center port of the VCV should connect to timed (or ported) vacuum, and rest I can't make out because the....

Fourth photo is too blurry to read. Even when zoomed in.

There is a sticky explaining what all the vacuum acronyms mean.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Vacuum Diagram Acronyms

Looks like someone really hacked your vacuum system. Sorry...

 

well guys, I went ahead and plugged the hose and all three ports of the yellow thing, still have no idea about what connects to arrow 2 in pic one or to the shiny thing on the disk behind the carb in pic two in above pics, but plugging these things has dramatically improved the performance of the truck. She doesn't hesitate coming out of turns or starting from dead stops, and while it didn't raise the rpms when idling in gear, it didn't stall on me either when putting into gear after warmup. I believe that there is a screw somewhere on the carb to adjust for that idle, but not sure which one, if anyone has a pic of where it is on thiers that would help alot. anyway, thanks for the help guys, I'm sure I'll find something else for y'all to help me figure out.

 

The screw to adjust the idle speed is behind the throttle pivot.

The idle mixture adjustment screws are on the front base flange of the carburetor covered by anti-tamper plugs.

 

Yes, your decel throttle control modulator should be connected up to full vacuum.

 

I see this is an old post, but this may help someone. While searching for an AC vacuum operated throttle kicker I came across several post on this. On the 351HO and 460 with the 4180C carburetor have a vacuum operated diaphragm that pushes on throttle to raise rpms when AC is switched on. Vacuum hose is connected to two solenoids on drivers side fender well. When AC is compressor engages the solenoids open and provide vacuum to diaphragm and pushes on throttle. The solenoids are electrically switched on when compressor engages.