So I just bought this 83 f150 a week or so ago, I drove it home from an hour away, it was running fine.

I got under the hood and cleaned out all the extra vac lines and items that were not connected to anything or just running from the front vac port to the rear lol. Someone had been in there goofing around not knowing where to connect things or paying attention to the vac diagram. Thats when all the trouble started, I was driving it to go get an air filter and by the time I got to to the parts house it was flooded to high heck and wouldn't barley run. I thought it was just about out of gas so I drove to the station and sure enough it kept doing the same thing. Switched to the other tank and still no effect.

So now to the issue, in a turn it looses all power and if the turn is long enough it will stall. Appears to be flooding. Then it takes a minute to get it restarted. It helps to hold the throttle wide open and crank on it for 10-15 sec then it will fire up and run like crap and stall constantly unless you hold the throttle open quite a bit. And going down the road above 2000 rpm and its fine. Will still take off like a bat out of hell if you gun it but wont idle for spit.

I looked down in the carb after turning the engine off and gas was almost raining down from the venturis. It was flooding the heck out of itself.

So I bought a rebuild kit and float. Rebuilt the carb, installed new float replacing the nitrophyl junk. Adjusted the float level to mfg specs. Seems to have fixed the issue of gas raining down when I turn the engine off but still floods when turning.

Here is a list of things ive doe so far that I can remember:
Changed float.
Adjusted float level several times.
Checked fuel evap line, disconnected power valve, replaced with new one in kit, new one popped in 5 min so I had to go back to the original.
Checked evap line form tanks it seems clear
Installed a manual choke as the electric was broken and always wide open.
New air cleaner as the old one wouldn't fit with new choke.
Switched to the other gas tank, it has 2 but no change but it does use fuel from the proper tank.
Vac tuned the idle control needles. Wasn't off by much at all.
Watched the float while running, no over flow sitting still, level looks normal.

So at this point I wish I could grow hair just to pull it out lol. HELP!

 

What carb? Float height spec is just a bench setting, but have to check the actual fuel height in the carb bowl, that's what counts. May be some crud in the valve seat and needle too. Check fuel pump (mechanical?) for proper pressure and volume.

 

Motorcraft 2150.

Orignally it was junk in the seat that cause it to flood the first time. When I opened it up and pulled the float / needle out of the way I saw 2 pieces of debris.

 

But you replaced needle and seat?

 

Yep, and the float.

 

One thing I just noticed today is that the gas coming up out of the needle when running is bubbly. To be honest Ive never ran a engine with an open carb until today. It was recommended to see the level of the fuel so I grabbed the water hose and said here goes nothing lol. No fire so all good

As another test today I set the float almost as low as possible and it still does the same thing. Its way off spec atm and no change.

 

Had to set the float on a 2100 pretty low to get the fuel level to stay in spec at idle. So long as it's in spec should be good to go. Is it a new fuel pump? They are pretty notorious these days for being way too high in pressure.

 

I thought I responded to this, guess I forgot to post it lol.

Yes the fuel pump was recently replaced but I Have no idea what brand or warranty it carries. They replaced it before I bought the truck.

But if that was the culprit one would think that it would have happened on the way home and on the test drive

But I do own a fuel pressure tester and it can run on the bowl for a moment or 2 so I can test that real quick to be sure.

brb

 

Sorry, it started raining here so I had to take a break.

So the fuel pressure is 6-7 psi and never a speck higher. But my book says it should be 5 psi. "if its not 4-6 psi the pump is defective" Maybe not a dead end?

But good news is I was able to test the new power valve that came in the kit and it was not blown. The problem was that I put the wrong gasket on it that was too thin and gas was seeping past it, so that was a score. The new valve gave it more go when pushed.

Any other hope here?

 

What exactly is the problem now after you rebuilt the carb? You said something about it still flooding, but apparently it's not? Why do you say that? What is it doing? I am assuming you took another peek down the carb after you turn it off now, and you see no fuel dripping in the engine.

 

Right, it still tries to die in a turn, but it is not raining fuel down in the carb. So I can only assume it was a double issue and the debris in the seat were what cause the raining fuel.

So just trying to find an issue with the turning now. Runs like a champ wide open but hesitates with light throttle around turns and if you keep turning it dies and acts flooded.

 

If it's stalling on turns and when you hit the brake hard, you have the fuel level in the bowl too low. You may have over done it. Low fuel level will also make the main venturi's come in late, your hesitation.

 

I reset it again today back to the called for 7/16. I had tried going higher and lower on the float level but it had no effect

The brakes don't seem to have any effect, its only when I give it a little gas in a turn. Or make a u turn at my little turn around test spot then its really bad and usually dies there.

But in the turn thing if I punch it when it starts acting up it stops acting up and goes. I just don't want to goos it after every turn lol.

I could probably mount my phone in there and take a video of what it does. Its really strange, if y'all think that would help.

 

Do you have a mechanics vacuum gauge. Almost sounds a little bit like a combination of maybe late ignition timing and maladjusted idle mixture circuit. Carbs are pretty simple aka "calibrated leak" but everything has to be setup right.

 

Yep, I have a vac gauge. I tuned the idle air screwes already. They were very close to spot on.

I haven done the timing as of yet because I don't have a light right now my last one busted.
But it was running good when I drove it home and the dizzy is tight so it's not moving.

Think I should pull the vac advance off the dizzy and try that?