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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #31  
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hit the schrader valve on the pass side fuel rail to release pressure. there won't be any pressure if fuel pumps are not running. injectors are a separate circuit than the pumps. the on, then quickly off power to the switch is normal, the fuel pumps will not run unless the distributor is turning a certain rpm..... safety if in a accident, key on, engine off, etc. AGAIN...... DID BOTH FUEL PUMPS RUN BEFORE YOU MADE YOUR REPAIRS?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #32  
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I am sorry I thought I had answered that, Yes they both worked and I used them both, this has to be one of those things so simple I will feel stupid when I find what is wrong.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #33  
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it's a wire connection some where. you have power at the relay. did you replace the ground from your firewall to the intake? did you paint anything, and then put the wire against the new paint? I keep leaning toward a ground. take a pair if jumper cables, and hook the - side of the battery on one clamp, and the other side of that cable to the intake somewhere good ground, and turn on the key to see if the fuel pump comes on
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:09 PM
  #34  
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Just went and did that Dusty, did not work. I spray some starting fluid and the motor runs until I stop spraying though, So it is getting fire all it needs is the pumps to work. I tried both pumps with the jumper cable grounding it. Is the eec relay the same relay as the fuel pump relay? they look the same to me, I will go in the morning and replace both of them.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #35  
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no, the eec is electronic engine control. I'm baffeled here. I'll continue to think on it. be careful with the either, you can wash the rings, or worse take the top off a piston. use carb cleaner, it will still fire, and not hurt your motor.I'm almost ready to have you drop the tank, and put 12 volts right to the fuel pump. everything is pointing to a bad pump, but both wouldn't die at once, at least shouldn't
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 02:00 AM
  #36  
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Did you test the relay ?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #37  
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I put my finger on it and turned the key on and off, if it clicked it was a real weak click.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
no, the eec is electronic engine control. I'm baffeled here. I'll continue to think on it. be careful with the either, you can wash the rings, or worse take the top off a piston. use carb cleaner, it will still fire, and not hurt your motor.I'm almost ready to have you drop the tank, and put 12 volts right to the fuel pump. everything is pointing to a bad pump, but both wouldn't die at once, at least shouldn't
sorry I meant the PCM power relay, there are 3 in the fuse box under the hood, fuel pump, pcm power and horn relay...are they the same?
I have put a hot wire from the battery directly to the inertia switch and neither fuel pump would come on, It has to be a ground somewhere, I also notice on the wire diagram that the red wire that goes to the fuel pump relay and the pcm relay also goes to about every other thing connected to the computer....I HATE electrical problems!
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bobbyngeorgia
I put my finger on it and turned the key on and off, if it clicked it was a real weak click.
you need to test the relay with an ohm meter to know for sure, a parts store can test it.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #40  
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Ok guys, here is the latest, all the relays are good. I grounded the number 6 pin in the diagnostic cable and turned the key on. I checked the wires going into the fuel tank selector switch. the red/yellow wire is the power to the switch, it was hot. the yellow/white wire going to the fuel gauge was hot, i checked the rear tank, the brown/white wire was hot, the yellow/light blue wire which is the signal wire was hot, rear pump did not come on. I then checked the front tank, the solid red wire was hot and the dark blue/yellow wire that gives the signal did not respond. So, do I have a bad rear tank pump and the front tank not getting a signal do I have a bad computer?..I am so confused on this one and have no idea how this happened just because I took off the intake manifold.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 06:33 PM
  #41  
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man, I really think you have a ground problem
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #42  
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Me too Dusty, I checked and tightened the ground from the firewall to the intake, also the ground beside the starter relay on passenger fender and the ground in front of the drivers side head light...am I missing any?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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2 by the battery that does the fuel injecteors, and 1 that comes out of the computer, and hooks to where the hood hinge is on the driver's side. I also run a 10 guage wire from the bolt on the wiper motor, to the intake, and another 10 guage wire from the - post to the bolt that holds the radiator in. I can see 1 pump die over night, but not 2
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #44  
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OK I will do that in the morning and then report back..Thanks for all your help to me.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #45  
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hey. no problem. one of my pia trucks brought me to this site, and everybody pitched in, and helped me figure it out, so I am returning the favor. plus, it's a cool site.
 
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