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You probably knocked the fuel pump relay loose or possibly the EEC relay ( the pump is indirectly controlled through the EEC relay) or did something to the relay wiring - like lean on it while working. They are on the fender apron on the drivers side just where you would lean over to do head work or work on he distributor. It should click when you turn on the key, if it doesn't --no start.
Heres what I did, I jumped a wire from the battery to the in on the fuel inertia valve, checked and had hot coming into the tank selector switch and out of it to the tank, turned the key and neither fuel pump came on ..i am at a loss as to what to do next
Oh yeah, the engine turns over good, I just put a test light on the dark green/yellow wire on the fuel pump relay and turned the key to the on position, the light lit for about 2 seconds then no more power
check ur fuel press. to see if it stays up after priming, i believe the pump staying on after priming is controlled seperately. Prime, check, crank to draw fuel out, check again.
pull the dash apart so you can get to the tank switch, and check for power. you will only have power for 1 second when key 1st turned on, then unless there is a signal from the distributer, the pumps will shut off. I can't imagine both pumps going up at the same time. did both work before you made the repairs?
I found a fuseable link connected to the starter relay, checked it and there is power, The fuel pumps are not coming on to do any priming, I checked the selector switch, it is getting a weak signal ,on tank 2 and no signal on tank one, but the power coming into the switch is very weak and goes off after a couple of seconds.
now I did disconnect the fuel rail when I was working on it, to check the injectors, do I need to bleed it or has that got anything to do with the pumps not coming on?