Thermostat Replacement?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minneapolis
Thermostat Replacement?
My recently purchased Excursion has 108k miles. The heat just doesn't seem to blow very hot.
I'm told replacing the thermostat is good maintenance and isn't too difficult to do. I've just never done one.
I was told someone may have put a different thermostat in since it came from Florida. It's living in Minnesota now.
Does anyone know how many degrees the thermostat should be? A local auto parts store sells them as 170-179 Degree, 180-189 Degree and 190-199 Degree.
Is there a post or anything that shows replacement procedure? I did some searches but couldn't find much.
Thanks in advance!
-Eric
I'm told replacing the thermostat is good maintenance and isn't too difficult to do. I've just never done one.
I was told someone may have put a different thermostat in since it came from Florida. It's living in Minnesota now.
Does anyone know how many degrees the thermostat should be? A local auto parts store sells them as 170-179 Degree, 180-189 Degree and 190-199 Degree.
Is there a post or anything that shows replacement procedure? I did some searches but couldn't find much.
Thanks in advance!
-Eric
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 25
From: Chino, California
Sounds more like an issud with your heater core? Maybe the blend door is not moving all the way to the hot side thus mixing with the cold air. I would check that first. I don't think it's your t-stat unless the truck never warms up and you idle over 1k RPM all the time. You could change it if you'd like. I've not changed mine. My temp gets up about 184 F.
I'm not 100% sure where it is. I have a Haynes manual I could look up when I get home. I think it's on top, passenger side with a large hose connected on the housing. Don't quote me on that.
I'm not 100% sure where it is. I have a Haynes manual I could look up when I get home. I think it's on top, passenger side with a large hose connected on the housing. Don't quote me on that.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
Since you just got the truck you probably do not know the history. Now would be a good time to change the coolant and thermostat anyway. However as said above your problem may be elsewhere. The truck should have a 190 degree stat in it and I would only use a motorcraft replacement. When my CHT and water temp is below 150 degrees it still blows pretty hot. Driving in 25 degree weather I stay at around 188 degrees during the summer I've never seen the temp over 194. I have a Scangauge on my truck the stock gauge is worthless.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 25
From: Chino, California
Ok. It's actually on the driver's side, just to the right of the alternator. The big top hose connected to the housing and to the top of the radiator.
Drain the coolant so the level is below the t-stat. Unclip the hose and remove. Unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the housing and remove. Remember the position and direction of the T-stat. Remove and replace. Hook everything back up. Add coolant and bring to temp. Check level and make sure you burp it all out.
Drain the coolant so the level is below the t-stat. Unclip the hose and remove. Unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the housing and remove. Remember the position and direction of the T-stat. Remove and replace. Hook everything back up. Add coolant and bring to temp. Check level and make sure you burp it all out.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
On the X, and F-series crew cabs before a certain year, there is a heater-core shutoff valve inline in the heater hose. It has a vacuum line connected to it so that when you turn on the heat or defroster, vacuum is sent to the shutoff valve and it opens, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core.
You might want to check there quickly and make sure it's opening.
With the engine warm/hot, and WITHOUT the heater controls set to heat or defrost (leave it totally off for this test), feel the heater hoses before and after the shutoff valve.
One should be warm, the one after the valve, cold.
Turn on the heat.
Without a few minutes, check it again, and see if the hose after the valve gets hot.
You might want to check there quickly and make sure it's opening.
With the engine warm/hot, and WITHOUT the heater controls set to heat or defrost (leave it totally off for this test), feel the heater hoses before and after the shutoff valve.
One should be warm, the one after the valve, cold.
Turn on the heat.
Without a few minutes, check it again, and see if the hose after the valve gets hot.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Check Heater Bypass valve
My heater problem turned out to be an erratic heater bypass valve. Sometimes it would stick and no heat. Occasionally it would pop open with high vaccum at speed and instantly get heat. Next time I had to use AC the problem was back. Changed the bypass valve and all is well... plenty of heat and fast.
Its an easy fix. Look for the valve on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
Its an easy fix. Look for the valve on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minneapolis
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I'm hoping to finally have time to dive into this further tomorrow...
Does anyone know how many degrees the thermostat should be? A local auto parts store sells them as 170-179 Degree, 180-189 Degree and 190-199 Degree.
Does anyone know how many degrees the thermostat should be? A local auto parts store sells them as 170-179 Degree, 180-189 Degree and 190-199 Degree.
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