Some folks have epoxy'd an allen wrench in the plug. Others just replaced the HFCM cover. Collect the fuel you get when you pull the primary filter (drain it in a pan or something), then pour it in a jar. See how much water is at the bottom.

I suspect you have other issues. The bubbles in the fuel suggest that you either are getti8ng air in the suction of the HFCM pump or you have injectors leaking combustion gas into the fuel system. This can occur at a single injector, but end up starving an entire bank of injectors for needed fuel pressure.

 

I had removed and reset the frame rail filter, before I check flow in the upper fuel filter, so I thought that is why there was bubbles with the fuel.

 

Then you should properly do the secondary fuel filter flow/bubble test.

This is all in the no-start thread!

Unfortunately the 6.0L does not let the backyard mechanic troubleshoot very easily (not very often anyway). You have to roll up your sleeves and work at the troubleshooting process.

Again - The no-start thread in the Tech Folder walks you through MANY troubleshooting techniques.

 

I could not get the HFCM plug out, but the little bolts at the bottom came loose really easy, and I got an ear full of diesel, I assume there was some water as it started after that, I had added some 911. I drove it for a while, filled the tank and added a can of Seafoam. But it did not start well this morning, and blew lots of black smoke.

 

It would not start, it is 4 degrees, but I had it plugged in. I removed the HFCM manifold, but left the hoses and wires attached. Looked like about a quart of clean diesel came out. Cleaned a little black crap and a couple metal shavings out of the basin of the HFCM.
Removed the fuel filter cap under the hood, it was under pressure. Turned on the key and fuel over-flowed with bubbles. I suppose the bubbles are because I drained the HFCM. Replaced cap.
Turned on key, water in fuel light stayed on. Won't start! Just pops. What the heck? What next?

 

The bubbles you saw coming into the upper fuel bowl may be from opening the HFCM. You don't say for sure but besides bubbles, did fuel fill the upper fuel filter bowl when you turned on the key?

I believe the test Bismic is talking about (among the many other No-Start troubleshooting tests in the tech folder) is to test for injector problems by puling the HFCM fuse and cranking the engine for 5-10 seconds while watching for air bubbles in upper fuel filter bowl. Did you perform that test?

 

Yes fuel filled the filter bowl with the key on. It ran and started fine when warm over the weekend. It was 30 degrees.

Are you referring to #19 on the "no-start" checklist? It mentions leaks in connections.

 

Definitely do #19 since you are getting air bubbles, but I was referring to the injector bubble test, which is explained in a post further down in the no-start troubleshooting thread, here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7844886

 

I have stripped the threads of the HFCM for one of the screws that hold on the manifold.

 

Woops! www.partsguyed.com

 

I give up! I am having it towed. My choice is a local dealership at $100-120 hour or a local mechanic that worked as a diesel mechanic for a Ford dealer for 15 years $80 hour.

Do you think it is viable to drill and tap the HFCM for a bigger screw?

 

Why wouldn't you look for bubbles in the fuel at the secondary fuel filter. It is an easy test (described in detail in the no-start thread)?

 

Frankly, I don't know where that would get me. What ever is wrong after the test I probably couldn't fix and it is sitting outside at six degrees, I have no heated place to work on it.

 

You can try to retap the bolt hole for a larger bolt, but there's not a lot of wall to work with. You might want to wait until your diesel tech has a look at it first before you waste any more time on it.

 

It takes pulling a relay and a HFCM connector. Then unscrewing the fuel filter cap and having someone crank.

I have always found it to be financially beneficial to know the scope of work before taking a vehicle to a shop - especially one that charges $100/hour for diagnostic work. But regardless, good luck to you.

BTW - This is a lot more work than the afore mentioned tests.