Grinding at the rust
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 729
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From: Peoria, Arizona
Grinding at the rust
Hey all!
I'm grinding away at the rust and PO paint on the hood and have a question
I am getting it pretty clean but there are patches where the metal wants to stay "dark" and I would have to spend a god awful amount of time on it probably warping the metal to get the black out.
Is that the rust still? Does it need to be removed completely to temporarily primer it if I will be having a shop professionally primer and paint it?
I'm grinding away at the rust and PO paint on the hood and have a question
I am getting it pretty clean but there are patches where the metal wants to stay "dark" and I would have to spend a god awful amount of time on it probably warping the metal to get the black out.
Is that the rust still? Does it need to be removed completely to temporarily primer it if I will be having a shop professionally primer and paint it?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
Likes: 4,792
From: Burbank, WA
There is no point to you putting anything on the metal if your plan is to take it to a shop and have them spray quality, professional products on it. You'll just be making more work for the shop and expense for you. They will have to do the same exact work you're doing now to remove anything you put on there. My advice would be to get it as clean as you can, then let them evaluate the next best step. I would guess they would wash it with metal prep to eliminate any minor surface rust left behind before priming it, since that is standard operating procedure in automotive refinishing.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 729
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From: Peoria, Arizona
The problem I have is I am not going to the paint shop soon. I want to get all the rust and PO bondo 
off so that I can see what I have to work with and do body work. Primering just to keep surface rust off. I just worry that the "black" areas will eat through again.
off so that I can see what I have to work with and do body work. Primering just to keep surface rust off. I just worry that the "black" areas will eat through again.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
Likes: 4,792
From: Burbank, WA
Light surface rust isn't a big concern, especially in 2% humidity Arizona (just don't leave all your parts out in the rain). That can be cleaned off quickly with a DA sander by the shop guys a lot easier than stripping off any cheap primer that you would be putting on. It will create a much bigger mess, imho. And I've been doing this since 1979. I've got bare metal pieces around my place that's been sitting for years, they still look a pretty metal grey. If you lived in Alabama or Georgia or Ohio, that may be different.
If the 'black areas' truly is rust, covering them up will definitely become a problem. One more reason to leave it bare, so your shop can evaluate that and deal with it accordingly.
If the 'black areas' truly is rust, covering them up will definitely become a problem. One more reason to leave it bare, so your shop can evaluate that and deal with it accordingly.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Go to your local Home Depot and pick up a gallon of rust remover. Pour the liquid on the dark areas and work it in with a little scrubbing action with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse it off and see how much discoloration is left behind. It has been my experience that even light surface rust will leave tiny pits that sanding alone will not remove...that is, unless you really take off a bunch of metal. The rust remover will chemically neutralize the rust in the pits and give you a good surface to paint.
How exactly do you intend to prime your truck? Do you have a spray rig or are you going to rattle-can it? If you have the spray rig (compressor and gun) then I would recommend buying some SEM Metalock (ML010) to prime your bare metal panels. I have used this product extensively and I am very pleased with the results. It is a catalyzed direct to metal primer/surfacer/sealer and will withstand months of weathering without a top coat. It costs about $100 for the kit (1 gal of primer and 1 qt of catalyst) and is well worth the price. 52 Merc's points are well-taken, so if you can prep the surface yourself with a professional product then you will save yourself a lot of time and money when/if you take it to a shop to be finished.
How exactly do you intend to prime your truck? Do you have a spray rig or are you going to rattle-can it? If you have the spray rig (compressor and gun) then I would recommend buying some SEM Metalock (ML010) to prime your bare metal panels. I have used this product extensively and I am very pleased with the results. It is a catalyzed direct to metal primer/surfacer/sealer and will withstand months of weathering without a top coat. It costs about $100 for the kit (1 gal of primer and 1 qt of catalyst) and is well worth the price. 52 Merc's points are well-taken, so if you can prep the surface yourself with a professional product then you will save yourself a lot of time and money when/if you take it to a shop to be finished.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Peoria, Arizona
I'm thinking its rust still. The center of the hood is the most rusted and that is where the black is having a really hard time coming off. If I sand blast it then it comes off but I have a really small unit and it uses a lot of material/time. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and taking all the parts to a shop to have it blasted.
I'm using rustoleum rusty metal primer in a rattle can right now.
I'm using rustoleum rusty metal primer in a rattle can right now.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Don't sand blast a hood! Too much flat metal that can easily be distorted with the heat generated with sand blasting. The tool you show in the photo of the hood should be perfect for your task, just be patient and work a little at a time. If you have a compressor that will handle a sandblaster then you should have enough pressure/CFM to handle a Harbor Freight gravity feed spray gun...buy the SEM Metalock or other professional grade DTM primer and put the Rustoleum back on the shelf.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,828
Likes: 8,329
From: northwestern Ontario
I had some of the same spots under where the side hood badges were. I used a small siphon sand blaster that looks very much like a spray gun to clean it off. It cleans an area about the size of a quarter at a time. The gun came with different shaped rubber heads for cleaning various shapes and was fairly cheap to buy.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
The black stuff sounds like magnetite, which is actually what "rust converters" change red iron oxide into. May be from PO's work? I've seen this type of rust on SW'ern cars where the sun burns off the paint, too. It doesn't get worse but paint isn't likely to stick real well to it. Let the painter deal with it later.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Some more .02. You can also use Picklex 20. It will neutralize any small rust pits and prevent further rust. You can keep it on bare metal until you are ready for a finish or scuff and primer over it when ready. Just follow directions. Pro shops use this method also. Regards.
Check it out here:
Picklex 20 - Autobodystore
Check it out here:
Picklex 20 - Autobodystore
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 282
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Any rust remover, nasal jelly, Ospho, etc will neutralize the rusted dark areas.
I highly suggest you stop by a reputable paint shop and talk to the PAINTER. Maybe buy him a 12-pack if he can come by your place and give your truck a 5 minute evaluation. He can point you in the right direction. and tell you exactly what you need to do.
I highly suggest you stop by a reputable paint shop and talk to the PAINTER. Maybe buy him a 12-pack if he can come by your place and give your truck a 5 minute evaluation. He can point you in the right direction. and tell you exactly what you need to do.
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