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Nice job. When I did mine I did the five evenly spaced gig. Like the Fords were before the 2000 body style. Back then I referred to the 3/2 thing as 'the Chevy style' I know. I'm weird.
Judging by the interest in the template, I will go ahead and plot out a dozen patterns or so. Just send me a PM with your address and I'll mail them out at the end of the week.
Does anyone know if the Recon lights require the same size holes and spacing? Chris (kupaa), can you check this out for me please? If not, then I can add locations for the Recon lights to the template then it will work for OEM or Recon lights.
Clay, if you happen to see this thread and are interested...I would be happy to send you some patterns so you can include them with any of your new orders for cab lights. Just toss me an e-mail and let me know how many you think you need. (unless of course the Recon lights already come with a template....)
Ok when I'm done with work I'll go and measure the lights. That's the problem for not putting my lights on now there is no excuse.
Just make sure you seal the cab lights good or you will have some elect problems, I have factory installed lights and they went to leaking and caused all kinds of problems and had to replace my GEM module.
The best way to get a nice hole without any tearing of the sheet metal is to use an electricians knockout punch, 7/8" IIRC. It cuts the hole rather then drilling it. All you need is a pilot hole for the bolt to go through.
Last edited by twags6; Mar 10, 2011 at 02:57 AM.
Reason: had the wrong punch size
A step drill bit is your best bet for distortion free holes. Home Depot has 'em and the 3 pack from Harbor Freight is surprisingly good. I've had mine for a few years and it still works.
A step drill bit is your best bet for distortion free holes. Home Depot has 'em and the 3 pack from Harbor Freight is surprisingly good. I've had mine for a few years and it still works.
That's what I used. Make sure you have a nice high speed drill also.
I used step bits just like Chris posted. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby then you can get them fairly inexpensively. I also have a 1" dia round grinding ball on a shaft that I could chuck up in the drill and de-burr the hole. Since I only dropped the headliner enough to do the work, it was the only way I could clean up the underside of the holes. I then vacuumed the shaving off the top of the headliner prior to install.
A knock-out punch (draw style) is the best method but those are expensive. If you know an electrician or sheet metal worker then you might be able to borrow one. You have to drill a small pilot hole and then assemble the tool so the punch is on one side and the die piece on the other. Then you tighten the bolt which draws them together and punches out the hole in the metal. It leaves a nice clean hole.
Don't forget to paint the exposed metal edge of the hole so it doesn't rust. Good luck!
(in retrospect, I should have taken more pics....) Sorry.
How was it doing the electrical when you installed it. My truck doesnt have them and Ive been wanting to put a set on since I got the truck. Do you run the wires to an existing spot in the cab, or is it like gauges where I had to run a hot wire to the battery? If anyone has pictures of the wiring that would be awesome.
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