I have a 59 f100 short wheel base that i would like to swap frames out on, I have found an 82 chevy 1/2 ton and a 77 f150 1/2 ton both 2 wheel drive and both are long wheelbase, I know I will have to cut the frames to shorten the wheelbase but can anyone help me by telling me if either of these frames will work, any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated Thanks

 

Wow, we need to put up a sticky thread about frame swap questions.
This is one of the most commonly asked questions and the most discouraged mod on this forum. Frame swaps are not as simple as they look, figure on building all of your mounts and at least raising your bed floor because of the frame kick-up in the rear. There are many suspensions that range from simple to difficult to install on your original frame, so we try to encourage folks in this direction.

 

Ya I know it wont be an easy swap to do, I know all the mounts will have to be fabricated, the raising of the bed floor I didnt know about so thank you on that, one of my main concerns was the width of the frame. I should have probably stated in my first post the reason on wanting to do the frame swap, My dad had purchased this truck in 65 from a neighbor in California and sometime between 65 and 74 by brother got the truck from my dad and then around 89-90 I bought the truck from my brother he had stuffed a 409 bbc in it and even with boxin the frame the torque from the engine has left the frame tweaked and a couple of small stress cracks. I have now lost both my dad and my brother to cancer and I have finally decided that I want to build this truck in their memory. I know it wont be easy but the good things never are, again thank you mechmagcn

 

1948-52 Ford Truck Frame Swap

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9645212

 

Frame isn't too wide in the front, but is wider in the rear for the newer frames you mentioned. The axles, and track width, will also be too wide. As mentioned, suspension mods are much easier to do. Boxing the frame is the way to go if using an IFS or IRS, otherwise the frames are made to flex and twist, and bounce back into place. If the boxing previously done was done incorrectly, IE welded straight up and down, no use of fishplates, etc... then that actually promotes cracking.

Welcome to FTE!

EDIT: Dimensionally, the size of a frame rail isn't all that different between years for half tons. It's only if you go to a 1 ton truck or bigger, do you see the frames getting beefier.

 

Use the 77 ford frame and move the needed brackets from the original frame. I would keep the twin I beams and ditch the cxxxy engine (just kidding to each their own). Shouldn't be too hard to swap brackets.

Paul

 

If you do the frame swap remember to make your measurements from the front axle center line to make sure your wheels end up inside the fender wells.

 

I know the track width will be a little wider in the rear but most likely the truck will be getting the rear of the frame narrowed as well as the 9 inch that will be in it. The frame was boxed correctly but the 409 had a lot of torque

 

If it's possible, finding a highboy 4x4 will have the proper rear frame spacing already. And since the front springs are leaf already as well, it's possible one could swap the front beam axle or twin I beams (that I don't know, since I'm more familiar with 4x4's) to kill two birds with one stone. Or find a '67-72 F100 2wd, then everything is ready to go, and it's just a matter of dealing with the rear frame kick up, and the body/front clip mounts. A '57-72 pickup 9" is the right width, but moving the spring pads outboard to match the '77 2wd rear springs might be too close to the drums. Certainly the parking brake cable and hard lines will be really close, if not too close. Cutting, and re-positioning the rear frame section would be a PITA, IMO.

In a nutshell, waiting for the right donor frame to come along, may end up being a better bet than a frame already available. It's a matter of being patient, lol.

EDIT: Oh heck, I forgot you already had the right rear end (1959 9" rear, 60" wide). I would just graft the front suspension off of a 65-79 F100 (will it work?), and do the front disc swap at the same time if needed. I can only hope the OP takes everything into consideration, and not ignore the "negative feedback", so to speak.

 

Thank you for the positive feedback! I had thought i would be able to use the brackets off of the 59 and the twin I beams will be staying that was part of the reason for the frame swap, the independant suspension, disk brakes and the power steering although my brother all ready had power steering with tilt and teloscopic wheel courtesy of an old caddy. I will also be keeping the 302 sbf. Thanks again

 

Thanks hotfalcoon

 

I am not trying to be negative here, but the 77 frame will have a front track width that is just too wide. I had a 64 F100 that the frame was trashed on and a 79 F100 shortbed with a built 460 sitting in it, I looked and measured for some time before I decided that the front tires wouldn't look very good sitting outside the fenders I wish you all the luck if you decide to continue this, I think you will need it.

 

IMHO Those that say it's "easy" to do a frame swap have never actually attempted to do it.
There is NOTHING EASY about this swap. The 48-60 Ford frames were/are plenty strong. If you cracked and tweaked one with a 409, unless blown and on nitro, there was definitely something wrong with the frame work. A properly boxed frame (one that wasn't tweaked in the welding process, something that happens easily) won't be able to be tweaked with engine torque even from a 500 Hemi unless you consistantly pull 5' high wheelstand burnouts and drop it regularly (not very likely with a pickup). A fully boxed and K membered frame is stronger than any OEM frame you could possibly put under it, and will jar your eye teeth out if driven on the street.
A stock unmodified frame will easily handle any streetable engine of < 500 hp on street tires. If you are going big time drag racing or tractor pulling only with a high torque engine, and tires that can be made to stick then I'd recommend a made to fit rectangular tube chassis from Art Morrison or Heidt.