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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Could it be the fuel?

 
  #16  
Old 01-28-2011, 01:23 PM
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You should put your truck's year and engine etc in your signature so we don't have to look it up.

I don't think mid-fifties have a drain on the tank, do they? And the pump sucks out of the top? I believe they have a screen inside the tank that frequently gets plugged. If the suction screen or suction pipe is plugged, I don't know how you'd drain the tank after filling, you would have to siphon it out.

Your best bet in the long run is to drop the tank, clean all the lines, check the suction screen, get the whole system fixed up or you'll be fighting dirt and rust in the pump, carb, filters, etc. forever.
 
  #17  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:15 PM
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Electric fuel pumps do not exclusively run on high HP applications, and you can regulate any fuel pump down to a reasonable pressure. In fact, anyone running an electric fuel pump on a carburated setup should have a fuel pressure regulator and a kill switch that is keyed hot so you can turn it off via the switch with the ignition killing power to the switch. To many fail safes is not a bad thing on that setup...remember just cause the engine died after you got in a wreck your electric pump still runs unless you turn it off somehow.

However, if you can run a mechanical pump, I would HIGHLY recomend it. They can hold their own even on a pretty hot setup, they are cheap, and easy since there are no wires involved. As mentioned, until you step up in cam, heads, and compression (via heads, pistons, or rods)...it is basically stock with a 4-holer.
 
  #18  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:52 PM
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I agree with everyone. Looks like I will be dropping the fuel tank and replacing all the fuel lines. I will end up getting about 3-5 ft of line, I'd like to replace it with steel lines and do it nice once so I don't have to deal with this again.

I will check to see what size line I need. I know I have a 5/16 steel line from the tank to the electric fuel pump, then it jumps to a 3/8 rubber line to my filter then to the carb.

I will probbaly keep it a simple 3/8 steel line setup and run it to the mechanical pump and up to the carb.

Now I must be doing something wrong with the install of this pump. I purchased a replacement pump at autozone. the instructions mentioned I have to pull it away from the block while tightening it down. I don't know if it's even lining up with the cam.

any walk throughs?
 
  #19  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:58 PM
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"Pull it away" to keep the lever under the camshaft eccentric...otherwise it has nothing to push the fuel pump lever to make it work. It works best if you install the lever at a downward angle to make sure it goes below the eccentric, then bring it up to the mounting surface. There may be some pressure when you bring it back up to set flush against the timing cover cause the lever may be up against the cam eccentric...thats ok. It should snug right up once you start to tighten the bolts. If the lever is above the eccentric, your fuel pump will probably be trashed...at the very least it wont pump any fuel.
 
  #20  
Old 01-28-2011, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordman49F1 View Post
"Pull it away" to keep the lever under the camshaft eccentric...otherwise it has nothing to push the fuel pump lever to make it work. It works best if you install the lever at a downward angle to make sure it goes below the eccentric, then bring it up to the mounting surface. There may be some pressure when you bring it back up to set flush against the timing cover cause the lever may be up against the cam eccentric...thats ok. It should snug right up once you start to tighten the bolts. If the lever is above the eccentric, your fuel pump will probably be trashed...at the very least it wont pump any fuel.
I will have to youtube this install. this is the one thing I'm scratching my head about. Weird to be able to install a new manifold, carb and other items but not this.

Holley sells a high performance one for about 67 bucks and it looks nice
 
  #21  
Old 01-28-2011, 04:53 PM
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you can get a mr gasket pump for 44 bucks at oreilly
Mr. Gasket 12S - Fuel Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
  #22  
Old 01-28-2011, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by needhelp49 View Post
you can get a mr gasket pump for 44 bucks at oreilly
Mr. Gasket 12S - Fuel Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts

From what everyone says here, mechanical are the way to go, this is nice though, better than what I have probably.

Or it could be the dreaded fuel issue
 
  #23  
Old 01-28-2011, 06:22 PM
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It would really be pretty hard to screw it up. Here is a picture of the eccentric:

Fuel pump eccentric - FFCars.com - Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 
  #24  
Old 01-28-2011, 07:29 PM
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i just dont know why everyone is so agianst it thay went to electric pumps for a reson i dont know what it is.
but i dont know of any new cars or trucks that dont use electric. and i put the pump into my 302 wrong when i was 16 so it is possable
 
  #25  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by needhelp49 View Post
i just dont know why everyone is so agianst it thay went to electric pumps for a reson i dont know what it is.
but i dont know of any new cars or trucks that dont use electric. and i put the pump into my 302 wrong when i was 16 so it is possable
Mechanical pumps are relatively low pressure, and they pulse. That's OK for filling a float bowl. Modern fuel injection needs high pressure to atomize the fuel properly, and it needs to be a consistent flow, no pulse.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:08 PM
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All modern cars run electric pumps because all modern cars are now fuel injected. Fuel injection requires a steady high pressure of around 40 PSI to operate properly and a mechanical pump can't do this efficiently. All the older carbureted engines had mechanical pumps. Your average mechanical pump only supplies about 4 or 5 PSI. Since the bowl of the carb acts as a reservoir, the pump only needs to keep it full. fordman49f1 hit on the biggest reasons I never recommend an electric pump for a carbureted engine. By the time you add regulators to keep the pressure in check and wire in the MANDATORY safety switch, it gets to be a fairly expensive and involved installation to end up doing the same thing a simple $20 mechanical pump will do with much more simplicity.

EDIT: EffieTrucker and I were typing at the same time! Message is the same, though.
 
  #27  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:09 PM
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tomorrow is another day in the yard with her, my battery decided to poop out so I am buying a solar charger to charge her during the day, I'll be hopefully putting this pump in correct tomorrow and calliing some shops about cleaning out my fuel tank.

#1 goal is getting her running. I will also be buiying a new sending unit, seen some for about 25 bucks. once i have the tank, fuel lines, and pump all installed she should be running. If not back to the drawing board and this time with a hammer.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:12 PM
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see now i know
 
  #29  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EffieTrucker View Post
Mechanical pumps are relatively low pressure, and they pulse. That's OK for filling a float bowl. Modern fuel injection needs high pressure to atomize the fuel properly, and it needs to be a consistent flow, no pulse.

Noted.

I'm not the brightest tool with all these things, but now that I'm learning it makes things so much easier
 
  #30  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by EffieTrucker View Post
Mechanical pumps are relatively low pressure, and they pulse. That's OK for filling a float bowl. Modern fuel injection needs high pressure to atomize the fuel properly, and it needs to be a consistent flow, no pulse.
Originally Posted by BlueOvalRage View Post
All modern cars run electric pumps because all modern cars are now fuel injected. Fuel injection requires a steady high pressure of around 40 PSI to operate properly and a mechanical pump can't do this efficiently. All the older carbureted engines had mechanical pumps. Your average mechanical pump only supplies about 4 or 5 PSI. Since the bowl of the carb acts as a reservoir, the pump only needs to keep it full. fordman49f1 hit on the biggest reasons I never recommend an electric pump for a carbureted engine. By the time you add regulators to keep the pressure in check and wire in the MANDATORY safety switch, it gets to be a fairly expensive and involved installation to end up doing the same thing a simple $20 mechanical pump will do with much more simplicity.

EDIT: EffieTrucker and I were typing at the same time! Message is the same, though.
Mech. Pump it is
 
 
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