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Is 12 ton enough for typical work on an F250? There are a few jobs that I've got coming up, like u-joints and carrier bears (tru-trac!) and a press sure would be nice. For $100, I'm sure it's not super quality, but I don't think I'll need it very often.
That looks identical to the chinese made unit sold by Harbor Freight here in the states.
I have used mine many, many times. Suspension bushings, u-joints, press fit bearings, ball joints, etc.
12 ton will handle 98% of the jobs. Bigger would be better, but takes up more space and costs a lot more.
Tips: Always wear gloves and eye protection. The cast iron pipe fittings section at your hardware store is a great source of adaptors.
Not on my truck and not when a truck is from a snowy, road salt environment. I replaced my drive axle u-joints a few years ago and bent my 12-ton pretty good. It's a cheapie like the one the OP posted so I wasn't to concerned and managed to bend it back into reasonable shape. I still use it and it does fine for everything else I've used it for.
Not on my truck and not when a truck is from a snowy, road salt environment. I replaced my drive axle u-joints a few years ago and bent my 12-ton pretty good. It's a cheapie like the one the OP posted so I wasn't to concerned and managed to bend it back into reasonable shape. I still use it and it does fine for everything else I've used it for.
That's what I'm afraid of. I've take an axle shaft to a buddy's shop to get the u-joints taken out, and his mechanic mentioned that they were a bugger. I'll probably get the 12 ton anyway (sure can't afford the 20T), and reinforce if needed. If push comes to shove, so to speak, the u joints can be cut out too, right?
The trick I found was to get as much pressure on the u-joint as you can with shop press and then take a sledge and and tap the axle shaft. That should create enough shock to pop the u-joint free. It sounded like a cannon going off so be prepared.
The trick I found was to get as much pressure on the u-joint as you can with shop pressure and then take a sledge and and tab the axle shaft. That should create enough shock to pop the u-joint free. It sounded like a cannon going off so be prepared.
Makes sense - that's how I've seen tie-rod ends released. Sounds like the makings for a good youtube video - blasting out frozen u-joints with 12 tons and 5 pound hammer.
Yeah, that's why I recommend face protection (shield) and gloves. I have made some serious POWs and launched parts several feet....
The other "friends" are PB Blaster and heat.
Start soaking the joints at least a week before hand with the PB blast. It seems to literally dissolve rust and corrosion...
Once in the press, try the tapping. If still not coming out, grab a propane torch and heat up the part of the yoke surrounding the cups. Heat causes expansion, making the yoke bigger and loosen its grip.
I think 12 tons is fine for most home shops. BTW, press safety is no joke at all. We have a 40 ton vertical press and a 200 ton horizontal where I work and I can tell you firsthand that it's like playing with a bomb when either is maxed out.
Can't go wrong with any size press. I have different sizes of wrist pins around my press that sure are handy for pressing. Good luck with your purchase.
Yeah, that's why I recommend face protection (shield) and gloves. I have made some serious POWs and launched parts several feet....
I did get the press, and just finished using it to press out the front axle u-joints. It didn't press them right out, but I did use the hammer trick to make a very loud bang . Put a mini-sledge on one side, and tapped the other with a hammer. I can see why safety gear was a good idea - axle parts ended up flying all over the place. The second time around was even worse, since I knew what was coming...
Thanks for everyone's advice - I'm pretty happy with it.
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