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Truck won't start. Battery's fine and it has gas in both tanks. It's been 3/4 weeks since I last started it, and kinda a cold. But it won't even sputter. Had the rotor replaced awhile ago, so don't think it's that. Starter seems really REALLY loud when it tries to start though. Any thought? I need it working soon, I get my plates back either this week or next.
I am confused, what dose this mean: "It's been 3/4 weeks since I last started it"
Dose that mean its been 2 weeks since you started it or it has been 5.25 days...
or wait dose that mean 3 or 4 weeks?
The longer it been sitting the longer the list of potential problems gets...
you say the starter is really loud, is the engine turning over?
Have you done all the preliminary checks? Remember you need.fuel,spark,and , air. Have you pulled the.fuel line.to see if.you've lost prime?
Originally Posted by mark a.
Try some starting fluid.
Originally Posted by 410F-100
I am confused, what dose this mean: "It's been 3/4 weeks since I last started it"
Dose that mean its been 2 weeks since you started it or it has been 5.25 days...
or wait dose that mean 3 or 4 weeks?
The longer it been sitting the longer the list of potential problems gets...
you say the starter is really loud, is the engine turning over?
I don't know how to check the fuel line, if you told me, I'm sure I could figure it out.
Starting fluid didn't do anything at all.
And I meant it's been 3 or 4 weeks. I thinking it might the fuel pump or filter. It doesn't seem like it's getting any gas at all. Engine won't even sputter...
pull the fuel line from the carb and turn the engine over see if fuel comes out
If you have an eletric fuel pump just pull the hose from the carb and turn key on...
Well first off you should have a clear fuel filter just before carb and check to see if it's full. If it is while under hood pull throttle and see if jets squirt gas inside carb..
This would rule out the fuel problem, need to see if it has fire. Put a test light on bat+ side of coil, with key on should light the test light. Crank should be lite again. Put test light on coil - side, crank test light should blink. If not pull distributor cap and crank, Is rotor turning? Could be jumped time, bad coil, bad pickup in dist., bad ignition box. Test some more and let us know. Like 410F-100 said is engine turning over.
go to autozone, spend 10 bucks on a spark tester, test for spark. or do it the poor mans way, pull the plug, stick it in the boot, ground the body of the plug on the block and crank away. do a google search on how to check for spark. as for checking for fuel, its not hard. pull the fuel line at the carb and crank it. if it spits fuel, its not a fuel problem. check for spark before doing the fuel check as you will have raw fuel under the hood if good.
if it didnt fire on starting fluid, you have a spark problem, and do yourself a favor, dont ever us starting fluid on your truck again. its very dangerous, and when improperly used, can damage your engine. for a gas motor all you need to do is dump a little fuel down the carb. diesels are a different story.( and btw, i will only use starting fluid in my diesels in an absolute emergency)
Well first off you should have a clear fuel filter just before carb and check to see if it's full.
No such thing as a clear (plastic) fuel filter as original, it's an autoparts store replacement. This type of filter has two nipples, is usually spliced into the metal fuel line leading from the pump to the carb.
This type of filter was usually installed...because...people couldn't find the fuel filter, so they assumed the truck didn't come with one. They were unaware it was either located inside the fuel pump or threaded directly into the carb.
Two possible fuel filters were used in 1968/76 F100/350's with 360/390 engines...as original.
1) C4AZ9365B .. Corrogated Paper Filter, fits into a metal cannister that threads onto the fuel pump (Motorcraft FG1A). Most people are unaware of this filter, so it rarely gets changed.
1) D3AZ9155C .. Inline Fuel Filter-Steel (Motorcraft FG14C). This filter threads directly into the carburetor, has a nipple on t'other side that the neoprene fuel line clamps to.
Some people assume that the inline filter is nothing more than a fitting that the fuel line clamps to.
Yes is turning over and sounds like it wants to go but like there no gas/spark.
If it sounds like it wants to go! Sounds like it jumped time. Check to make sure rotor is turning. Pull #1 spark plug. Put the end of your finger over hole, bump engine till your finger gets pushed off the hole or yuo hear a puff of air. Check harmonic balancer and find TDC mark. Slowly turn engine over till TDC is on pointer on engine. Check the rotor and make sure it is pointing to the #1 plug wire on cap. 360/390 were bad about jumping timing. Lets us know what you find/do.
73 ford guy was simply saying the guy "should" have one there so he can notice what is going on. Not that there IS from factory a clear/plastic filter.
73 ford guy was simply saying the guy "should" have one there so he can notice what is going on. Not that there IS from factory a clear/plastic filter.