So now that I live up in the mountain area's I tend to notice my egt's spiking a lot higher, I know it has to do with my hubs staying locked, but up here there isn't really anywhere safe to pull over and unlock them, as 90% of my destinations are up or down steep icy hills, I really would rather not put them in free and have to jump out every 30 min to lock or unlock. I recently replaced the stock ones with Warn hubs, and greased them well. Only problem is the egt's tend to stay higher locked than unlocked, and I figure thats to do with rolling resistance.
Well a non-used 1995 PSD radiator with hoses and shroud just poped up on CL near me, and I was wondering if it would bolt on with minimal modifications, and I know mine is old and starting to corrode a bit from years of use.
I figured it might help out a bit, till I opened up the exhaust more, and looked at a turbo.
Input would be great, guy wants $100 for it, but I can prolly get it for a bit less.

 

worried about loosing power by turning the fuel back down some i take it?
there's a strong relationship between coolant temps and exhaust temps?

 

As far as I know, upgrading the radiator isn't going to do a damn thing to your exhaust temps.

Is your engine overheating? If not, your radiator is doing its job just fine and no reason to upgrade. As it is, the radiators on these trucks are oversized unless you're pulling a load 24-7.

I can't answer your question about fitment, but if your radiator is on its way out, $100 might be a good deal, but that all depends on what you might have to modify to make it work.

You're better off spending the money on a bigger exhaust.

 

Well the thing that I don't get is the relation between the pryometer, and the oil temp gauge.
My pyro will be telling me it's in the 1000-1100 range, and the oil temp gauge will just be cresting the N in normal.
I've never touched the IP, so It wasn't really something that came to mind.
And I don't know if there is a relationship between the two, I just figured cooling the engine better would help EGT's.

I'm not sure if the engine is overheating, I've never tried to seriously push this truck, I've towed/hauled like 2500 in the box, and about 6000 on a trailer at the same time, and she only really struggled on a 25% grade, put a mess of logs in the back of her, and gone down the freeway, and she shrugged it off, and I usually only had to slow down to the speed limit and the EGT's lowered to manageable amounts.
But up here, some of the grades, I find myself having to slow down 10-20km/h below the speed limit to keep the EGT's from spiking over 1200. And this is empty.
Could the aggressive tires be slowing me down more as well? When I did a job towing up through here, on my old bald tires, she didn't struggle as much with an extra 4000lb's out back.
I'm looking to purchase myself a second vehicle, expedition/excursion for the ample seating, but I want to get this old girl running like a dream first so that I can use this girl as my work/tow/bush/dd rig, and have the other one there for when I need to move larger amounts of people, over just me and my dog.

 

the psd radiator wont be any better then the idi radiator. you got a couple choices here. you can upgrade to the xlt bumper thats got the holes in it for greater airflow, you can also add a electric "pusher" fan or two on the front. that will help push more air though it when your not going 60mph, or you can always get a few bottles of these Red Line Synthetic Oil 80213 - Red Line Diesel Water Wetter Cooling System Treatment - Overview - SummitRacing.com say will reduce your cooling system temps by 10-20 degrees

 

cooling system has nothing to do with exhaust temp..... exhaust temp has to due with combo of fuel and air.... air in combined with fuel with restrictive exhaust = high exhaust temp

free up the exhaust and you will see a decrease in temp

also i don't believe there is any relation between the oil pressure and exhaust temp i could be wrong but i don't see any relation

 

The reason why your EGT's are higher in the higher elevations in the mountains is the lack of air.

Higher the elevations, less air there is, so you keep putting the same amount of fuel in, but without enough air and the higher you go, the less air there is, thus making black smoke = raising EGT's.


I experienced this first hand many times with my motorhome.... especially in the Rockies!

Highest I been with it was 9200 ft. and the most throttle I was able to give it without having all that useless smoke was only half! Half throttle, 1st gear, 25mph and slowly up the hill we go engine riding on the govornor all the way up! I don't have an pyro (yet) so to keep my EGT's down, I just watched my right mirror, keeping an eye on what was commin out the tailpipe, I would just keep it at a point where it was just starting to smoke a clear light little haze of black, that tells me it's got full power with proper air/fuel mixture. Even in the floor, with the huge thick black smoke, there was absolutlly no difference in power. Just burning everything up for no reasons.

Engine temp* never got over 210*! (180* thermostat).


A bigger rad won't make any difference in EGT's, opening up the exhaust will!

Run a bigger 3.5" true dual exhaust system! That will cool 'er down.

 

I'm not sure what the elevation is offhand, the local restaurant has it listed on their sign, but I never really read the sign. My truck doesn't really smoke when I'm pushing up the hills. It just says the EGT's are high, engine doesn't sound like it's struggling, is it possible it's reporting incorrectly?
Alright so unless I am in need of replacing the radiator, it doesn't do anything for me really. Also my truck is the XLT model, and I just had the solid bumper before I replaced it.
Would it just make sense to just say screw it all and save up for a banks sidewinder kit?
I've only ever seen two locally, and they were both installed on trucks that people wanted like $8000+ for. It would almost make more sense to just buy a new one up here. Because even if I find one on eBay, nobody is going to ship it here reasonably, and I have a few diesel truck shops back in town that I could scout around to find one who could bring it in.

 

The elevation is in the 3600 area, plus or minus depending on where you are.
Today I went for a drive and unlocked the hubs, it did help quite a bit, but the EGT's still spiked a lot on the larger hills, I guess that's expected.
I saw someone selling a TransCommander by banks, and wondered what that would really do for my truck.

 

I think the transcommader is junk, but thats my opinion and also I have never tested or seen it in action first hand, but I think its the one where it increases your pressure to give you much firmer shifts but increasing line pressure=pump is working harder and will die faster, just my opinion like I said

if I wanted firmer shifts go with a shift kit from like B&M