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IPR failure - Questions

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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:20 AM
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IPR failure - Questions

The IPR valve failed on my engine and I'm trying to get a better understanding of how and why the part failed, what if anything I could have done to diagnose it on the side of the road where it happend, and whether I could have replaced it had I been carrying a spare.

Here are the facts:

The IPR failed after descending a steep grade towing a 10k horse trailer. The transmission was in tow-haul mode and the truck was engine-braking nicely down the hill in 4th gear. Got near the bottom of the hill and hit the go pedal. There was a sudden jerk, then nothing. Engine had died and would not restart.

Tech performed an ICP graph test and found the engine was only getting 350 psi of ICP. Then he did an air leak test and found that the IPR was not responding. Pulled the IPR and found that the screen had torn and caved in, presumably when a spike in pressure occurred and some debris clogged the screen.

The oil cooler had been replaced 750 miles prior to the IPR failure.

Here are the questions:

My theory is that when I hit the go pedal at the end of the engine-breaking descent, a surge in oil pressure sucked in the clogged screen. Does this sound probable?

Where did the debris that damaged the IPR come from? I'm meticulous with oil and filter changes. The oil cooler replacement was certainly a good opportunity for gunk to fall in the HPOP reservoir, but the tech who did the job has always done good work for me to date. Before I point fingers, are there other possibilities I should consider?

Is there a test I could have done on the side of the road to determine that the IPR had failed?

Why didn't the truck throw a P2623 code?

Is there a PID to monitor IPR duty cycle that can be read by a ScanGauge or other OBD gauges?

Would I have been able to replace the IPR myself out on the road, or is it too hard of a job for a roadside repair?

Is $273 for this part a typical dealer price? This thing's almost worth more than gold by weight!

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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You could have changed the IPR on the roadside with the right tools, but it is hard to reach.

Even though you are meticulous, when you work w/ the HPOP reservoir open is a VERY hard thing to do to keep it perfectly clean. IMO, it is not something to point fingers at. It is probably "just one of those unfortunate things".

The main thing IMO is not make sure there wasn't metal on the IPR screen.

What oil do you use? IMO using 15W40 in very cold weather (if you do) makes it harder on the oil pumps and anything it has to flow through.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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I normally use 5W40 synth but it does have 15W40 in it right now since I didn't want to put synth back in after the oil cooler repair, only to have to dump it if something else cropped up. Besides, the oil was at 200 F degrees when the IPR failed, so not sure that is a factor. Speaking of which, should I replace this oil in hopes of getting out any other gunk that may be floating around in there? The tech said he blew out the oil rails with air, but couldn't be sure there wasn't more gunk in there.

I kept the old IPR and will get a magnet to see if the debris is metallic.

As for pointing fingers, I guess what I'm wondering is, was the IPR failure preventable? Or is that just a risk I as an owner assume when I ask a shop to replace the oil cooler? I plan to maintain good relations with the shop that did the work regardless, because they've always done good work for me in the past. Even so, I feel compelled to let them know what happened and would like to know what, if anything, is fair for me to expect them to do about it.

On edit: anyone have instructions for replacing the IPR? I think I'm going to buy a spare and keep it in the truck just in case.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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Even though the screen blew out at 200 *F temp, it can still deform and weaken at start-up. More than likely that wasn't it, but if you are starting up in 0*F weather, 15W40 is not what you want in there IMO.

I would change the oil personally, but I am conservatrive about these things.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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It's hard to know what to say about the IPR valve. It should have been pulled and cleaned when they did your oil cooler. I'd think that was just SOP. It doesn't take a heckuva lot of anything to clog the screen. Even being very careful it's possible to get trash in the system. IMHO it was just "one of those things" that happens.

Nothing to replacing the IPR but screwing it out and in. You'll probably want to get the correct socket for it though.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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To remove the IPR... IPR socket Tool # 303-769 ($70) - It is 1 3/8 inch.

Remove the degass bottle, the ficm, remove the bracket, remove the 10mm nut that has the injector ground wire (which is the one at the left rear of the intake), then remove the same intake bolt that the nut came off of. You can then stick your hand in and finish the job.

NOTE: use an IPR socket (or homemade version) and swivel and a 6" extension.

I have not tried using a regular 1 3/8 socket. I have the Ford socket. Others may chime in about how a regular socket works.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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We've been in the teens but only a few times. Mostly in the 20s and 30s.

How do you get to the IPR, from underneath or over the top? Looks like a standard socket won't work because of the right-angle connector. Do they make a slotted socket? Or would an open end work?

OK scratch that last paragraph: i see bismic's answered it already.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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I think I'll change the oil. Won't guarantee anything but at least I'll know I did everything I could.

One last question: would I be crazy to pull the IPR valve periodically to clean the screen?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
I have not tried using a regular 1 3/8 socket. I have the Ford socket. Others may chime in about how a regular socket works.
A regular socket would have to be slotted to clearance the electrical connector but might be a much cheaper alternative to the Rotunda tool.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by moebdick
One last question: would I be crazy to pull the IPR valve periodically to clean the screen?
Actually, no I don't think you'd be crazy. It's been said that the felt seal on the oil filter sheds and tends to stop up the IPR screen, but I don't know how true that is.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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Places to buy the IPR socket ($42):
OTC Tools OTC 6765 - Ford 6.0 IPR Inject Pressure Regulator Socket


Also, to buy the IPR itself, try TousleyFordParts or PartsGuyEd
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Thanks guys, very helpful as always.

I tested the debris on the IPR screen with a magnet and nothing came off so it's not steel. It actually looks a little like some sort of goo with little bits of sand in it...not exacty a comforting thing, either. I can see a few strands of fiber-like stuff on there, but not enough to clog it. Then again, maybe the rest went inside the valve...dunno.

Here are some pics of the IPR screen.


 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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I pulled my IPR to replace the screen while doing my head gaskets and found the screen had some debris on it as well. No holes and the debris was not metalic so got me on what it was. The oil filter theory sounds plausible to me. Guess I will add it to my list of things to check periodically now.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-no-start.html
post #7 covers your concern. so it was awnsered correctly. icp below 500 pis.

there are only a few things that will kill a running 6.0. now getting one to restart is another issue, but dieing weile driving.....

first to diag you needed to know what icp pressure was. you could have used a volt meter. you need .8v to run at min. that equals 500 psi
you would have had .24v there about while cranking the engine. at that point you would have pulled the oil filter to varify base pressure.
if you had base pressure then Next would be to...
a: wait for it to cool down and try to restart
b: do an air pressure test and see if you hear aleak
c: do a air pressure test and open and close the ipr valve to see if you hear a change in air flow.
d: being that you had .24v while cranking and died while driving then just pull the valve.

next as to why you didnt get a p2263 while that is a turbo boost code. lots of other codes you could have gotten but it would be a little starnge to get a turbo boost code for low / no icp concern.
now low icp can give you but should also come with another code like p115a, p2290,p2291, p611, p03xx, or for some type oif cyclinder contrubtion.

now as to what happened more then likly debris from the oil cooler job.... whos falt\, well no matter how carefull you are sometimes it just happens dont be made at the guy. its not his falut the motor had some dirt on it either. IMO i would not even ask the guy to pay for it. it sadly is just a risk of the repair.

I have no idea if you could change one on the side of the road. I can but thats just me. I will say its not hard if you know how. its also no fun on a hot engine, so you would have been there for a little bit.

so far as what pid to moniter that would icp pressure, icp voltage, icp dsd.
monitering ipr will do you no good. the reason is ipr is a output so all you see is what the pcm is asking it to do. icp is the result of the pcm's command of the ipr. so remeber you always want to moniter outputs not inputs unless you need to varify the pcm is asking for something.

I hope in some way this helps.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 11:30 PM
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Thanks Cheezit, your info helps a lot, as usual. I did talk with the tech who changed my oil cooler. I do think he did as good a job as anyone could have done.

I had read about the 0.8 volt test for ICP but unfortunately I didn't have my VOM in my truck the day this happened. I went out and bought another one the next day and I will keep that one in my truck from now on. I was going to test the voltage the next day, but the wire colors on my ICP sensor didn't match what I had read on this forum so I didn't get that far. Mine are purple instead of dark blue-light green and gray-red. Anyway, I'll get that figured out so I can do the voltage test roadside if needed. I'm also going to get a spare IPR to keep in my truck and learn to change that thing out. Being stranded in 30 degree weather in the middle of nowhere for 3 hours waiting for a tow truck isn't much fun.

The P code I was asking about is 2623, not 2263. In the 2004 6.0L book it says 2623 is an "IPR circuit failure," and gives "open/grounded circuit, stuck IPR, loose connection" as probable cause. But I'm guessing the circuit wasn't really the problem?

Thanks also for explaining what PIDs to monitor. I can monitor ICP pressure on my ScanGauge, so I'm sure I'll be watching that more often now. What is "ICP dsd"?
 
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