1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1

 

I'd scan for codes. Sounds like an OBD1 system.

Any chance the fuel pump might be cutting out?

 

How many miles are on the truck? When was the fuel filter changed, if ever? How up to date is the truck on recommended maintenance services (tune up, etc.)? Has anything been changed on the truck recently?

Answers to these questions will help us help you determine the cause of the problem

 

It is an OBD 1 series ...we scanned for codes the very first time it did it ...we found it had IAT / ECT sensor - replaced that

EGR DPFE high or low - changed the DPFE sensor

Octane adjust ...which went away after replacing the above two parts

Engine coolant sensor - changed that but still think the engine is running to cold ...Gauge barely hits first line of the beginning of normal even after running hard for hours. The radiator looked like someone used Bar stop in it and after 6 frigen flushes it still wasnt clear - bought new radiator and water pump and thermostat (which we tested old one and it wasnt bad) I can grab all hoses on radiator even after truck has run for an hour and I can actually touch the radiator - Just dont think its flowing well thru the flukes and with all the crud that came out I am opting to go ahead and change out the radiator and water pump just to be safe.

After we finished replacing the DPFE sensor ...which was corroded very bad ...the truck started running like a champ ..LOTS more power ...sounded and felt great ...Tach went back to working after we changed the Ignition Start Modulator .....We rescanned the system ...and it came back all clear - no faults - and passing all the tests the OBD 1 put it thru ...I googled on my own and found alot of people came up with the TPS sensor going bad? Throttle Posistion sensor? So since the price of one of those wasnt bad I went that direction and will be putting one of those on the truck tommorow. I bought the truck in July and I am thinking I inherited some issues ...I thought it was great that the man apparently had just done a tune up cause he had new plugs and wires and so forth but seems after I noticed a week later that he had Magic Markered over the check engine light that ended up being on ...that he was simply in the first stages of trying to find this problem. My fuel mileage stinks....which also leads me to the TPS now that I read up on what that sensor does. Noone seems to think fuel related because the truck does not stumble at all except the one jerk of the truck when the engine dies ....and since I am able to pop the clutch and keep right on going ...it just does not seem like a fuel problem. I might be wrong but it seems like something is resetting itself when I cut it off and back on or when I pop clutch and start truck back up that way while moving. Seems to only have this problem when I am running at one steady speed for long periods of times ...such as 40 miles or so .....like something is heating up ...not sure though . Truck has 172,000 miles on it ...and from all the crap I have replaced so far I would say the guy did a crappy job at keeping the Maint up. The body and cab inside itself is immaculate ...seems he cared more about a nice stereo system then he did the long term running of this little truck. I would sell it but heck other then the engine not much left to replace.

 

Did that solve the problem, my ranger has the exact same problem

 

Nope didnt solve my issue ....what I have been able to narrow down on the symptoms is ...if you lug the truck ..it will shut off ..even a little lug ...be in the wrong gear with ac on and its garunteed to do it. I also have noticed driving down the interstate that the truck will sound like its running hard ..ill look down and the tac will be at 1000rpms ...ill keep driving and cut the key off and then right back on and it resets the tac and itll be between 2 and 3 ....and running normal ....if u dont reset it like that ...it will shut off. As of now ...NOONE has been able to help me.

 

Some one said check the ignition switch? or the camshaft positioning sensor?
did you change that?
I am not necessarily suggesting it? But if you have done it already then I won't even bother.

 

could have a LOOSE connection some place , with it running try wiggling all of the connectors and see if that does any thing ! also check all of the grounds !

 

Welcome to FTE.

Put the PCM power relay on your suspect list. If no joy suspect the PCM. Edit: I like the wiggle test, to see if you can induce a stall.

 

I have the same issue with my 1994 Ranger except it has manual trans. Did you ever solve the issue?

 

Welcome to FTE.
If it runs, but stops running, your missing fuel, or spark, so whats going missing when it lays down on you???? Your timing light & fuel pressure gauge are your friends in this kind of trouble shoot.
If you have a CEL lit, have the computer scanned for trouble codes & post up All trouble code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues. If you don't have a code reader, or scantool, or can't come by one to scan the computer, most autoparts stores will scan do it at no charge if your having problems, or the CEL is lit.

EDIT: If its OBD-1 & the parts store can't scan it, you can do it yourself following directions links in this forums "Technical Info" thread, atop the thread index page. Then post up All code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues. If no codes set, use your inductive timing light & fuel pressure gauge to monitor those two things to see what's going missing. When it stops running are the dash warning lights lit???? If not, look to a power feed problem to the computer, like an acting out ECM power relay, or faulty battery cables or their connections or Both ends. If the dash warning lights are lit when it stalls, set up to monitor fuel pump operating voltage at the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch, to see if its going missing. If it is, put the fuel pump power relay on your suspect list. Let us know what you find.

 

OBD1 is very primitive compared to OBD2, with that said certain systems won't show a CEL-check any and all connections to anything under the hood, especially going to the PCM. Look for corrrosion at all connections, and look at alternator and starter for loose/corroded connections as power spikes play hell on a PCM. Check all engine grounds. Look in the Power Control Box and do a wiggle test on relays and wiring, especially on the fuel relay. Check neutral safety switch (on trans) for loose/corroded connection. In the cabin, look at fuse panel and ignition switch for loose/corroded connections. Rangers have been known to have speed limitations on them, and if your PCM can't tell how fast you're going or doesn't know your engine speed (as you said tach not reading right), it MAY be shutting down, but that IS stretching it a bit. OBD1 is like the old DuraSpark on steriods-you still have to do a lot of testing and observing yourself...

 

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger SLT 2.3L 250000+ miles and have been having issues with it stalling and hard starting when hot. The other day it would not start at all. some times it would not start and then I would not be able to start until a few hours later. I read a crap load of people's posts and started checking around and found two things:

1. bad ground to the engine. I replaced both the ground to the engine and the one to the frame as well as the positive cable to the starter.

2. someone before me must've had the starter replaced and made a crimp connection between the smaller red wire that goes to the starter relay (up by the battery) and the solenoid on the starter. It was broken, so I cut it at this junction and added a new eye-terminal and shrink wrapped it.

All is working good after this.