Cruise Control Not Working
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 465
Likes: 53
From: Connecticut
Bump for feedback before I start tossing parts at my '01 Excursion PSD for non-op cruise.
Tried to do the test from the first page, but I'm not even getting the initial cruise light blink. I'm guessing steering wheel switch. Anyone want to talk me out of tossing a part at that?
Cruise control recall is done, I have that fused harness. However, I do see some dampness on the electrical plugs and wires (nothing obviously dripping off), and while I can't confirm it's brake fluid it does have a distinctive bitter taste like brake fluid. I did not remove the harness or switch and check for continuity or switch operation. I don't think failure of either of those will stop the diagnostic procedure. But does anyone want to dissuade me from tossing a new deactivator switch and harness on it?
Thanks!
Edit: Jeez, just saw the prices on the steering wheels switches. Definitely would like some feedback before buying those.
Tried to do the test from the first page, but I'm not even getting the initial cruise light blink. I'm guessing steering wheel switch. Anyone want to talk me out of tossing a part at that?
Cruise control recall is done, I have that fused harness. However, I do see some dampness on the electrical plugs and wires (nothing obviously dripping off), and while I can't confirm it's brake fluid it does have a distinctive bitter taste like brake fluid. I did not remove the harness or switch and check for continuity or switch operation. I don't think failure of either of those will stop the diagnostic procedure. But does anyone want to dissuade me from tossing a new deactivator switch and harness on it?
Thanks!
Edit: Jeez, just saw the prices on the steering wheels switches. Definitely would like some feedback before buying those.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 465
Likes: 53
From: Connecticut
It was the cruise deactivation switch. Replaced it with a NAPA part, cruise works again. But I still cannot activate the diagnostics mode.
The wetness on the switch and harness was definitely brake fluid. And I reminded myself that just a few weeks ago I got the low brake fluid light. I thought at the time it was because of worn brake pads...
The wetness on the switch and harness was definitely brake fluid. And I reminded myself that just a few weeks ago I got the low brake fluid light. I thought at the time it was because of worn brake pads...
New User
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
cruise control servo making buzzing noise yet passes static test
If memory serves me right, the switch on the Master Cylinder is called the "Deactivator Switch", and when it fails, it fails to the 'open' position for safety reasons.
Here is a diagnostic test you can perform on some models:
Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
Flashes Source
2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective
3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective
4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Here is a diagnostic test you can perform on some models:
Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
Flashes Source
2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective
3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective
4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
Old thread, new bump. My cruise control, as well as auto-door locks stopped working about a week after replacing my turn signal control mechanism due to no brake lights.
I tried the diagnostic program, I got no light indication after pressing the ON button, every other button after that was blank.
I checked the single in-line fuse and it was fine.
What's weird is that this just started happening a week after replacing the turn-signal column, any relation?
I tried the diagnostic program, I got no light indication after pressing the ON button, every other button after that was blank.
I checked the single in-line fuse and it was fine.
What's weird is that this just started happening a week after replacing the turn-signal column, any relation?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 191
Likes: 49
From: North Central WI
mgfranz - that's odd. Especially if it was working previously. Maybe there's a relay that's connected to those two circuits?
Or, did a connection/wire get bumped out of place during the turn signal switch work? I dunno, I'm no expert.
My situation is similar: no lights on the steering wheel buttons at all. But, In the two years i've owned it - never worked. I'm just now researching these forums trying to find a fix.
Or, did a connection/wire get bumped out of place during the turn signal switch work? I dunno, I'm no expert.
My situation is similar: no lights on the steering wheel buttons at all. But, In the two years i've owned it - never worked. I'm just now researching these forums trying to find a fix.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
It's definitely something electrical. After changing the brake switch, it works occasionally. I can turn it on on the highway and it works fine, but then it will just disconnect randomly. And then it will not turn back on unless I shut the truck down.
I have found a wiring diagram that I will peruse to track connection points, but this might be something as simple as dirt or crud in the steering wheel after 274100 miles.
I have found a wiring diagram that I will peruse to track connection points, but this might be something as simple as dirt or crud in the steering wheel after 274100 miles.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 418
Likes: 178
From: Piedmont of N.C.
When you set the parking brake, does the parking brake light illuminate on the dash. If the light doesn't come on, it may be burned out. This however, is not what keeps your cruise control from working in this situation, it's just a clue to dig deeper. If the switch on the parking brake is closed and you don't know because of the light being burned out, your cruise control will not activate. Don't ask how I know this!
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