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I have some decent play in my steering going down the road and figured it would be an easy diagnosis. I laid underneath and had my kid turn the wheel side to side to make the worn components show. I was surprised that the Tie rod ends were very tight, zero play. The only place i noticed a little play was at the pitman arm but it was very minor, all joints were way tighter than i thought they would be. So it left me wondering if there was a steering box gear adjustment or some other thing to check. I am having a hard time believeing some extremely small play at a joint or two is showing up at the steering wheel so large.
Kinda answered my own question, should have searched around first. Sounds like you can adjust the shaft, some people think its a good idea, some dont. I will probably try it carefully.
i would not mess with that screw. if you over adjust it you can bind up the box and put yourself and others in harm. You may have worn or loose balljoints also. If you truely have a loose steering box look into a RedHead steering box, they are based out of washington and put out an amazing piece of hardware. run a tad spendy but from what i have heard others say is the steering is unlike anything. sports car like.
Steering gear is highly suspect, but if it's anything like mine it wont fix ALL the slop. Certainly there can be more than one thing causing play in the steering.
I ruled out any serious issues with the ball joints and linkage as you did, then went with the Red head unit and it made a huge difference. Fixed 85% of the problem for me.
Keep in mind that unlike typical front-end suspensions, the TTB front axle has the added wear points at the axle pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings. Wheel bearings and tire inflation are also points to consider.
Adjustment of the sector shaft on the steering gear should be done in 1/4 turn intervals and the locknut should be locked down to the torque spec AFTER the adjustment and BEFORE driving the truck at all. This adjustment pulls the gear on the sector shaft up into the gear on the steering shaft and the minute you get it too tight, they begin to damage the gear teeth.
If you MUST adjust it, make the 1/4 turn adjustment, lock it back down and go for a drive. DON'T just sit in the driveway and run the steering from lock to lock. The suspension articulation comes into play when reseating the gears against each other. If things don't improve, adjust again but don't expect it to go from a full-size Ford to a Ferrari in the handling dept.
a good sign that you over tightened the adjustment screw would be while driving and the ability for the wheels to return back to center without any help after rounding a turn. typically 1/2 to 1 full turn is what it takes to get the play out.
Also check for play in the steering shaft area between the upper and the lower shaft coupler. Thats where my problem was. Theres a coupler that fits between the upper shaft and the lower shaft and it becomes worn and rounded out over time. Just open your hood and reach in there and grab the shaft and and see if theres any movement
Truck has new radius arm bushings, new tires, the ball joints seem tight, Tires all inflated properly, Wheel bearings dont seem to have any play. I dont expect it to be a race car but the constant correction going down the road gets old. I am going to double check all the steering linkage and shafts again before i look at adjusting the box. If you put your hand at 12 o-clock on the steering wheel going down the road, you can easily turn it from 11 to 1 o-clock or better with no movement of the truck on the road. Truck has 105k on it so its not overly worn out. Im guessing its a little play everywhere that is adding up to a lot as a whole.
Mine had been to the front end shop twice and still had about 2" of wheel movement down the highway before Red Head. About 1/2 -3/4 inch after Red-Head Steering Gears
I just replaced my steering box with a Redhead steering box.It reduced the play in the steering wheel to pretty much none.No more constantly correctng the wheel.
Axle pivot bushings... they hold the inboard ends of the TTB axle to the frame and will allow them to shift opposite the steering just like worn bushings in a track bar would in a truck with a solid axle.
Axle pivot bushings... they hold the inboard ends of the TTB axle to the frame and will allow them to shift opposite the steering just like worn bushings in a track bar would in a truck with a solid axle.
Yes, i did notice one of these looked perfect and the other looked kinda tore up/mangled. Where can i get new ones? urethane maybe?