So i have decided to install the turbo, found a local diesel mech that is not charging crazy *** rates and is well talked about. Just kind of starting out though. But he has lines directly into banks so he can get the crossover, and manifold and downpipe for about 300. Is that a good deal, i think it is. Doesnt make sense to fab them if they are at that price. So they are coming in but.....What i really need to do is know how long a turbo will take to install. This is where i negotiate how much i want to do vs let this guy do it. Honest hours it would take by a guy that has all of the tools, parts, and equipment to make a truck from the ground up. Thoughts are very much appreciated.

 

i would get ur gears ratios matching frist or did fix that all ready

 

I have no experence with the Banks set up, but when I installed the 94 factory turbo on my 6.9 it took less than one half of a day.Some where around 3-4 hours. The turbo I purchased had everything included in the kit, plus I got the 3 inch upgrade, and the seal kit from ATS.

 

never ended up swapping the rear end out. just kind of fell the wayside. So im still rockin 4.10. Well from what i can see, ist the oil lines, turbo itself, piping. So yeah i was thinking a day or weekend if i do it myself. You guys agree? Thing i am most worried about is the clearance for the dp and up pipes. What is the best way to fold that lip on the firewall? Any good way to hammer the firewall in if needed. i dont care if the firewall takes a couple dents, i just want it to fit. Any need for wrapping the up pipes?

 

When I did my Stroke a piece of 2" pipe a couple feet long working from below.
Put a block behind the head, watch the valve cover is not taking the pressure.
Pull the pipe back toward the rear axle.
Move the pipe back and forth a little till you have enough room.

Get some clearance all the way around, makes a terrible noise when the firewall and downpipe make contact.

It will take a little time, but not that long.

I am going to say between 6 and 8 hours, depending on how rusty some of the bolts are.

 

is it really just oil lines and mounting the turbo, and exhaust? As for the rusty bolts, which ones are you referring to?

 

Exhaust bolts are usually the hardest.

You may have to reroute the return lines, so at least a set of return line O rings would be good to have on hand with a couple feet of return line.

May have a problem getting the plug out of the oil gallery under the oil cooler, that is where I believe most of the Banks turbo's got their oil.

Relocate the CDR.

Nothing major, just small time consuming things.

Do you have what you need to hook the exhaust back up?

 

Still have to wait for the exhaust kit to come from the supplier but once i have it i will get a section of three inch fabricators pipe, and 4 inch fabricators pipe, i have recently broken the exhaust manifold bolts free so they are easily removed. The hardest thing i think will be routing the DP. I was thinking of doing it different and trying something new but i think with your method to tweak the firewall i will just go that route. I want to make it 4" as early as possible so i will also have a 3-4" expander. My welder will be in standby to make a flange there possibly as well for ease of removal or mods later. I am just going to run it out right at the passenger door and put my tip back on. Nothing major and if i get told to move it or extend it i will but we shall see there. I thought about putting the stack back on but i will leave it down for now. Wish i could find a navy buddy that had a diesel, would be a truly one of a kind USN CPO stack. So what do you think Dave? Oh and does anyone have the manual from banks to do the non wastegated turbo install? Banks hasnt written back yet. Sigh.

 

plan on 8 hours of solid work.
first thing you should to do is remove the hood. this will make your life way easier.
the first one i did was hood on, never again!!
clear all the lines away from the firewall and beat the the lip up or down flush with the firewall with a 5 lb sledge. this will give you the room you need.
you will need to move the glow plug controller to the middle of the passenger side valve cover, and you will need to remove the CDR valve, it gets relocated to the air filter housing on the non wastegated units.
you will need to relocate the oil pressure sending unit, because the turbo takes it's oiling from the stock pressure sender port.
put the turbo onto the pedestal before putting the pedestal on the head.

put the down pipe in the truck before putting the turbo and pedestal on.

if you have a removable trans cover floorpan, remove it. this will give you a lot more room for reaching into the back of the engine to make the exhaust connections.

fit the up pipes to the truck loose, then tighten everything up after they are on.

you will also need to modify the C-6 trans dipstick.
i know i am forgetting some things, but these are the biggies i remember from when i did all my installs back in the late 80's early 90's

 

I don't know how different this turbo is from mine but I wouldn't plan on doing it in a day. I don't disagree with Dave that often but 8 hours is not reality, especially if the installer has never done it before. First, I wouldn't take the hood off, I didn't and it never got in the way. Second, I would seriously get some directions and read through them and thoroughly understand them before you touch the truck. Repositioning the GPR is a pain, so is moving the oil pressure sender and CDR (IMPORTANT: you MUST use teflon on the plug where the oil sender used to go, I didn't use enough and Its leaking now, I'm gonna have to take it all apart sometime). Also, if it drains the same as mine, the oil drain components are a pain. If your oil sending line is the same as mine it will come from a plug right above the oil filter and drain into the valley pan.The up pipe is a pain also, as well as mounting to it to the turbo. The down pipe was easy slid mine in after the turbo was on in 10 seconds but its probably different than yours. You also have to get a dipstick for for your transmission. I ended up bending the lip on the firewall by cutting the lip every so inch and then bending it with a bar was alot easier. There are other things involved of which aren't coming to me right now but it wasn't uncommon for me to have to special order little parts I thought I had.

 

stupid double post.

 

Okay so my oil lines that are attached to the unit still are the steel braided. There are two fittings on the end of the lines, one comes from the turbo(or goes to it) and the other comes from the little oil pressure setup that comes with banks kits. I would guess that these two fittings attach to the stock oil pressure sending unit area and the other goes to the spot above the oil filter? That would make sense i think. As for the sending unit itself, i have one attached to the banks kit and mine. But i think ill take this opportunity to install a mechanical one. Does that hex extension in the stock location need to be removed or is it good where it is? Fuel lines will definitely need re routing and while i am doing that is when the mr gasket 12d will go in. I am not 100% on where to get the dip stick but that could come from banks right? OR does someone have one? hehe.

 

Yep, most likely gonna have to reroute some fuel lines. The hex extension will be removed and a 1/8 NPT plug goes in its place. Make sure you use tape on the plug, as I said before mine is now leaking in that place. The dipstick as well as any other part can be obtained from banks. Just call them up and they will have it, their CS is great. I don't exactly know what you mean by oil pressure setup. On mine you install a elbow above the oil filter and the braided line goes up to the turbo. Then the drain tube drains into the valley pan. My grommet there is also seeping just a little (If you ever tried putting one in with 10* outside you would know why). Doing it over I would let the grommet sit in hot water then apply RTV in the space around it then put it in while its nice and soft. The oil pressure sender then goes onto the oil block on top (it might be different on yours). I don't know if this pic helps but you can see the where the sender goes in (partially blocked by waste-gate hose). I don't know if yours is the same but this is how its setup on mine.

 

O.P. You never mention what Banks system you have. Is it the newest wastegated Sidewinder or the old box style air cleaner non-wastegate? There are differences.

 

He has the older one with the box, thats why I'm not entirely sure some components are the same.