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My Banks setup

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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #16  
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Sorry yeah i had posted it up in another thread, just figured most of the norms would have seen it. Its the latest model prior to the wastegated sidewinder. It has the box type that just says Banks Turbo, it does not have 6.9 on it.

The Piece i am talking about is a small metal support that bolts to the drivers side head area and holds some of the lines and a sending unit. The lones from there go to the oil filter area and to the turbo, i think. I need to head back to the jy today to see if i can spot any missed pieces. I know i need the oil filter neck spacer, and see if it has a dipstick relocator or similar. Also need to figure the GPC mount, it was off of a 6.9 so it doesnt have that little metal plate, easily fabricated though.

What i am going to do this week is relocate the GPC, and see about doing a mockup of the oil lines, then relocating the dipstick. Its the trans not the crankcase dipstick right? Could probably install the CDR relocation as well and just bolt it to the intake i currently have. Then it would just be remove old air filter assy, install turbo and exhaust. that way it will all be done prior to the turbo going in and make a nice afternoon.....maybe hehe.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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Like this:

Your CDR bolts to the side of the air cleaner box. I think on this system the oil feed line gets its oil from the stock oil pressure sender port in the back/top of the block like tjc transport said.
Then again this kit on ebay now has a long line a "T" with the oilp pressure sender and another steel braided line which appears would get it's oil from the plug down on the driver's side of the engine by the oil filter. People with this old system need to get out to there trucks and look around for you. Also with these older ones I don't know if the trans tube is a worry. On the new Sidewinder it is because of the up manifold/turbo mount. The tube actually inter twines with the manifold on the sidewinder.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #18  
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dude you rock man, yeah that bottom pic is exactly it!! Its like a T so i am guessing i just plug the stock location, then put one end of the unit into the turbo and the other in the oil filter area. This thing then bolts somewhere near the drivers head rear/middle area and then i plug in the oil pressure sending unit wire. That down pipe i have is like the one in the top pic but i only have from the flange to the second turn but i think that is enough to get something fabbed. I am making it 4" as early as possible so fingers crossed i wont need any more 3" attached lol. That manifold piece with the up pipe is what my buddy is ordering from banks. Can anyone confirm if the old system needs to have the trans dipstick relocated? Come to think of it, it might not. I am browsing pics but my dipstick is right about the rear of the passenger valve cover, and i think a bit forward. So who knows, maybe a tubing bender and some patience haha.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #19  
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you do not need to relocate the trans dipstick, you need to modify it to make it fit alongside the downpipe.
and the reason you have a short downpipe is because in the first picture there is an addition to the downpipe.

the rubber hose that connects the air box to the turbo is a royal pain in hte *** to hook up too.
i have installed 6 of those exact same turbos on my trucks.
i dont remember that long oil pressure "T" tube, but then again, i used luberfiner preluber pumps on all my installs
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #20  
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What is a luberfiner preluber pump? As for the DP, mine is cut off at the second bend, with a torch. Artard friggin junkyard monkeys hahaha. They have no idea what they cut and that they could advertise it for 100 and people would pay, guarantees. Its a 3" round DP, unlike stock or others.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #21  
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stock banks down-pipe is a 3 inch pipe.
the preluber is an external electric oil pump.
it draws oil out of the oil pan, and pumps it into the engine at the oil filter to pre lube the engine before startup, and it also after runs to cool off the turbo. i have mine set for 3 minutes run time.
i always start the engine with 60 lbs oil pressure.
when i got the first turbo in 88 , the dealer i got it from recommended the pre luber. i figured it was cheap insurance, so i put one on each of the trucks as i got them. back then they were rite around $300 each.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 09:50 PM
  #22  
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Well its official, i got all of my parts for the exhaust ordered and they are on the way. Also ordered the GPR mount, mounting bolts for the pedestal, gaskets for DP, and the air box support bracket.

What kind of power difference could i expect from getting rid of the box assy and using a filter with tubing mounted directly to the compressor intake? If not much then ill just keep the box, i kind of like the design haha. Do i have any options aside from the banks filter? Any other makers jump in on that?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #23  
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Keeping the box gives you a mount for the CDR. I don't recall an aftermarket filter other than Banks but I never had a reason to research it.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #24  
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You might be able to get a van kit intake. Atleast go here http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals...der-v2-web.pdf
and download it. Pages 3 & 4 and 21 have exploded view and parts descriptions for the system. Also page 11 shows your oil line. Read through the entire manual and see what you think. It should help with your install for sure.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #25  
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awesome thanks man! For the filter assy i think ill go stock to see what happens and then go on the hunt for the sidewinder intake stuff, i remember seeing one the other day but its gone. The turbo grenaded and so all the stuff that goes on the turbo was up for grabs. Shooting self in foot now! haha.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #26  
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the air box goes under the turbo, so making turbo to plenum setup is gonna be hard to do. i modified my airbox by cutting away everything that was not high pressure. and then made an air intake out of aftermarket ricer aluminum tubing and stuffed a cone filter on it.
eventually i will finish it all off with a 6637 filter and filter sock.
here is what is left of the air box.
driver side view

passenger side view

front view

and here is the CDR re located to the intake tube, with the temporary filter in place.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #27  
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WOW yeah yeah, thats what Dave had mentioned, i guess it was you haha. He couldnt remember so i am glad you posted. How did you cut that? Band saw or cutting wheel or?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #28  
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band saw, bridgeport milling machine, and belt sander to clean it up after it was all hacked apart.

it pays to know very rich people that own multiple very large machine shops.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #29  
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Did you have the box originally? if so did you notice a power gain from the procedure? Easier on the air filter applications i know that much.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:28 AM
  #30  
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it was on the truck for years, and i hated that monstrosity. changing the air filters was also a pain in the ***, so when i took the blown 5 speed out to switch the truck to a C-6 in 2002, i took advantage of the down time and took the air box to my friends shop and explained what i wanted done. that is the way i got it back, basically exactly what i wanted.
 
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