1996 powerstroke loses power
Symptoms of a CPS problem :
2
When my cps went out it just quit. It was like someone flicked a switch while I was doing about 40 mph on a busy street with no shoulder. It would not restart at all and I had to get towed. I've got one in the glove box now.
3
I had mine die while in light traffic at 65 MPH and towing a 13,000# fifth wheel. You are fortunate that it started back up for you. Mine started, went into gear and it died for good.
4
During driving (only ever happened while under 50 mph) the engine will spazm or cough. its the only way i can discribe it. it literally happens for about 1-2 tenths of a second. There is visible black smoke immidiately afterwards and no abnormal tendancies after the event. I do have a 80hp tune (edge evo). i checked and wiggled and so on the wiring going into the valve covers with no avail. iv never heard of a CPS being intermitant like this but i did get a spare just in case. i though tit may have been air getting in the lines when low on fuel but it does it when full Help please!
5
Does the motor momentarily cut off for a split second?
Mine did that off and on for over a year. It was my CPS.
6
The cough at 60 with a SES light sounds exactly like the symptoms I had when my CPS acted up. If you don't have access to a good code reader I'd pick up the $25 CPS from Ford and swap it out. If that's not your problem then put the old CPS in a ziplock bag and keep it for a spare.
7
It was the cam posit. sensor (CPS). It was my brothers truck, 1999 with original sensor and 134,000 trouble free miles. I was surprised he got away with running it like this for like 4 days in the rain stalling numerous times.
I asked him what he paid at the dealer for the sensor and it was 67 bucks. I forwarded the link on how to install to his computer and our nephew who is a carpenter NOT a mechanic....installed it in about 15 minutes (laying in a puddle
8
The original problem was that the vehicle would start, run for 20-30 seconds, then cut out. It would not restart for an hour or two, then it would repeat the cut out. There was no service engine light or other warning lights and an AutoZone scanner showed no codes. The WTS light came on and went off normally, but came back on as I cranked the engine after it stalled. I guess the problem with a faulty CPS is that they die in stages and with no uniform pattern.
9
For the last couple months my truck has been having a problem 1 or twice a week. While traveling down the road sounding fine it seems to shudder like the engine cuts off but immediately picks up again. Twice I have either been sitting at a stop light or slowing down to a stop and the engine cuts off completely. It fires right back up but it's not fun trying to stop this thing with no power brakes or steering.
10
The engine started dying occasionally just off idle, like when coming to a stop, taking off or going around a slow corner. It also sputters now and then when taking off under light throttle. I programed the Edge back to stock and it went away, but now it's sputtered a couple of times, again just off idle, with the stock tune. So, I'm wondering what might be causing it, something that the chip makes worse
It turned out to be the CPS. I had replaced the CPS with the new spare that I carry, but it was the cheapy $16 one. It was either a bad CPS, or the cheap ones won't
work right for the '96 and older trucks. Put in the $90 CPS and the truck runs perfect
11
My '95 pwrstroke w/5 speed manual, just started occasionally stumbling at idle, like it's going to die, but recovers. Sometimes you can feel it at lower rpm's but never under load. Any thoughts?
Mine did that periodicaly for almost a year. In my case it was the CPS.
12First time user
My 1999 7.3L Super Duty F-350 Has a intermittent loss of accelerator pedal response and no acceleration while moving down the road. It does not happen sitting still. Mine also has No codes. Have had it checked by 2 mechs and 2 ford dealer not help. The problem is gone after turning the key off and restarting the engine. But it is very intermittent problem but a big confidence issue.
I’m having a second problem when the engine is cold, it starts fine and runes good no problems for 2-5 mile then the engine bucks hard 1-3 times. Only once it died and I had to restart it while going down the road. No service engine light if it only bucks once but if I get 2-3 bucks I’ll get the light. If the engine is warm I won’t have any issues. If I don’t use it during I see the problem on my way home from work. Morning temps 70-75 deg. and afternoon temp 80-90 deg in SC. This will happen at 35 MPH and at 65 MPH so I’m thinking it’s not the accelerator position sensor(on the pedal assembly) Does anyone know is there a cycle the motor or CPU goes through from a cold start to normal operating temp condition? Has anyone had these issue
13 Delay wipers causing it
mine was doing the same thing. Is it only doing it when raining? i thought the two were linked, but it ended up being a bad cps.
s?
Got a new one from NAPA, still spazzing on me. died going down a grade this morning. Tack still showed RPMs until I hit the clutch. Started right back up. Last weak after work it took a while to get her started. Almost a full minute of cranking time combined.
I seem to remember reading in one of these threads that the only place to get a good one is either from the stealership or from International. The OEM is grey, aftermarket is black. Both the old and the replacement were black.
Can't remember if I read it here or not but I seem to recall hearing that if it is bad the tack will go to zero and stay there even when you crank the engine. Is this true or am I coming down with CRS? I'm getting to that age where it seems to start.
Some times it feels like she is possessed by gremlins.
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Got a new one from NAPA, still spazzing on me. died going down a grade this morning. Tack still showed RPMs until I hit the clutch. Started right back up. Last weak after work it took a while to get her started. Almost a full minute of cranking time combined.
I seem to remember reading in one of these threads that the only place to get a good one is either from the stealership or from International. The OEM is grey, aftermarket is black. Both the old and the replacement were black.
Can't remember if I read it here or not but I seem to recall hearing that if it is bad the tack will go to zero and stay there even when you crank the engine. Is this true or am I coming down with CRS? I'm getting to that age where it seems to start.
Some times it feels like she is possessed by gremlins.
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