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1996 powerstroke loses power

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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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1996 powerstroke loses power

I currently have a 1996 ford. When you drive down the road loses power, acts like you turned the key off for a second. The wait to start light comes on. If you take you foot off the acelerator it will run. I had a cps problem in the past this is different. No codes
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Sounds like it could be the CPS ..again ....What did you use to read the codes ? there are very few tings that will cause the symptoms you are having

Symptoms of a CPS problem :

AMy truck started bogging down and losing all power above 1900 rpms, like there was a dead, no power band above that rpm range. As soon as the rpms would reach that area, the truck would just basically completely go dead (still running, but idle rpms), regardless of which gear I was in, and throttle response suffered badly at lower rpms. I replaced my CPS that very evening, which was stock still at 126,000....and whammo. Problem fixed. Also, fuel economy jumped up 1 mpg. The darn cps paid for itself in a few fillups.

2
When my cps went out it just quit. It was like someone flicked a switch while I was doing about 40 mph on a busy street with no shoulder. It would not restart at all and I had to get towed. I've got one in the glove box now.

3
I had mine die while in light traffic at 65 MPH and towing a 13,000# fifth wheel. You are fortunate that it started back up for you. Mine started, went into gear and it died for good.


4
During driving (only ever happened while under 50 mph) the engine will spazm or cough. its the only way i can discribe it. it literally happens for about 1-2 tenths of a second. There is visible black smoke immidiately afterwards and no abnormal tendancies after the event. I do have a 80hp tune (edge evo). i checked and wiggled and so on the wiring going into the valve covers with no avail. iv never heard of a CPS being intermitant like this but i did get a spare just in case. i though tit may have been air getting in the lines when low on fuel but it does it when full Help please!

5
Does the motor momentarily cut off for a split second?

Mine did that off and on for over a year. It was my CPS.
6
The cough at 60 with a SES light sounds exactly like the symptoms I had when my CPS acted up. If you don't have access to a good code reader I'd pick up the $25 CPS from Ford and swap it out. If that's not your problem then put the old CPS in a ziplock bag and keep it for a spare.

7
It was the cam posit. sensor (CPS). It was my brothers truck, 1999 with original sensor and 134,000 trouble free miles. I was surprised he got away with running it like this for like 4 days in the rain stalling numerous times.
I asked him what he paid at the dealer for the sensor and it was 67 bucks. I forwarded the link on how to install to his computer and our nephew who is a carpenter NOT a mechanic....installed it in about 15 minutes (laying in a puddle

8
The original problem was that the vehicle would start, run for 20-30 seconds, then cut out. It would not restart for an hour or two, then it would repeat the cut out. There was no service engine light or other warning lights and an AutoZone scanner showed no codes. The WTS light came on and went off normally, but came back on as I cranked the engine after it stalled. I guess the problem with a faulty CPS is that they die in stages and with no uniform pattern.

9
For the last couple months my truck has been having a problem 1 or twice a week. While traveling down the road sounding fine it seems to shudder like the engine cuts off but immediately picks up again. Twice I have either been sitting at a stop light or slowing down to a stop and the engine cuts off completely. It fires right back up but it's not fun trying to stop this thing with no power brakes or steering.
10
The engine started dying occasionally just off idle, like when coming to a stop, taking off or going around a slow corner. It also sputters now and then when taking off under light throttle. I programed the Edge back to stock and it went away, but now it's sputtered a couple of times, again just off idle, with the stock tune. So, I'm wondering what might be causing it, something that the chip makes worse
It turned out to be the CPS. I had replaced the CPS with the new spare that I carry, but it was the cheapy $16 one. It was either a bad CPS, or the cheap ones won't
work right for the '96 and older trucks. Put in the $90 CPS and the truck runs perfect


11
My '95 pwrstroke w/5 speed manual, just started occasionally stumbling at idle, like it's going to die, but recovers. Sometimes you can feel it at lower rpm's but never under load. Any thoughts?

Mine did that periodicaly for almost a year. In my case it was the CPS.

12First time user
My 1999 7.3L Super Duty F-350 Has a intermittent loss of accelerator pedal response and no acceleration while moving down the road. It does not happen sitting still. Mine also has No codes. Have had it checked by 2 mechs and 2 ford dealer not help. The problem is gone after turning the key off and restarting the engine. But it is very intermittent problem but a big confidence issue.

I’m having a second problem when the engine is cold, it starts fine and runes good no problems for 2-5 mile then the engine bucks hard 1-3 times. Only once it died and I had to restart it while going down the road. No service engine light if it only bucks once but if I get 2-3 bucks I’ll get the light. If the engine is warm I won’t have any issues. If I don’t use it during I see the problem on my way home from work. Morning temps 70-75 deg. and afternoon temp 80-90 deg in SC. This will happen at 35 MPH and at 65 MPH so I’m thinking it’s not the accelerator position sensor(on the pedal assembly) Does anyone know is there a cycle the motor or CPU goes through from a cold start to normal operating temp condition? Has anyone had these issue

13 Delay wipers causing it
mine was doing the same thing. Is it only doing it when raining? i thought the two were linked, but it ended up being a bad cps.
s?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:42 PM
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I have the edge programmer on the truck running the towing level. The have a code reader built into it. The last time the cps went bad it was more of a bucking feeling.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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In case you didn't see it . I edited my post , go back & re read it ....
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Thanks I'll try one again. I didn't think that there would be so many varibles for one sensor.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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Just changed mine for the intermittent spaz. Finally died at a stop sign and would not restart. The tack stayed at zero when I tried to crank it over.

Got a new one from NAPA, still spazzing on me. died going down a grade this morning. Tack still showed RPMs until I hit the clutch. Started right back up. Last weak after work it took a while to get her started. Almost a full minute of cranking time combined.

I seem to remember reading in one of these threads that the only place to get a good one is either from the stealership or from International. The OEM is grey, aftermarket is black. Both the old and the replacement were black.

Can't remember if I read it here or not but I seem to recall hearing that if it is bad the tack will go to zero and stay there even when you crank the engine. Is this true or am I coming down with CRS? I'm getting to that age where it seems to start.

Some times it feels like she is possessed by gremlins.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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This has me thinking about mine. I don't have any stalling problems but I've had a few times when I pull out, the engine cuts out for a split second. Plus my mileage has been about 3-4 mpg below what it should be. Usually only get 15-16 on the highway, should get 19. Around town is usually 13.5-14. I wonder if my CPS might be on the way out.

Sorry for the
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamrope
Just changed mine for the intermittent spaz. Finally died at a stop sign and would not restart. The tack stayed at zero when I tried to crank it over.

Got a new one from NAPA, still spazzing on me. died going down a grade this morning. Tack still showed RPMs until I hit the clutch. Started right back up. Last weak after work it took a while to get her started. Almost a full minute of cranking time combined.

I seem to remember reading in one of these threads that the only place to get a good one is either from the stealership or from International. The OEM is grey, aftermarket is black. Both the old and the replacement were black.

Can't remember if I read it here or not but I seem to recall hearing that if it is bad the tack will go to zero and stay there even when you crank the engine. Is this true or am I coming down with CRS? I'm getting to that age where it seems to start.

Some times it feels like she is possessed by gremlins.
Normally you would register rpm while cranking if the cps is good, but there have been cases on here where the cps was bad and still registering rpms. First thing I'd do is change the cps again with one from ford or ih for sure.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:28 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Normally you would register rpm while cranking if the cps is good, but there have been cases on here where the cps was bad and still registering rpms. First thing I'd do is change the cps again with one from ford or ih for sure.
Thanks again Fordman, you are pretty good at gettin me pointed in the right direction.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by matts156
This has me thinking about mine. I don't have any stalling problems but I've had a few times when I pull out, the engine cuts out for a split second. Plus my mileage has been about 3-4 mpg below what it should be. Usually only get 15-16 on the highway, should get 19. Around town is usually 13.5-14. I wonder if my CPS might be on the way out.

Sorry for the
Mine has done this three times in the last two weeks
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Now that I think of it, my 93, which uses the same CPS as a tach sensor, was on its way out for quite a while, like over a year. Being a mechanical fuel system, it didn't affect the engine but my tach read around 500 rpm at idle for a long time, when it was really closer to 700 or so. Eventually it started to dip down below the 500 rpm mark - did that for a couple of months - then it would drop to 0 at any RPM below 1200. That's when I replaced it because boy, did it play hell with the transmission. So even though they still send out a signal, it might not be an accurate one.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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I had the same exact problem I changed almost everything. Nothing worked until I changed the computer.
 
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