Solid axle swap
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Solid axle swap
Hi, I have a 1996 f-150 with the TTB front end and want to convert it to solid front axle. I have a Dana 44 out of a 1978 bronco and am wondering if the gear ratios would match up with my rear axle wich is a Dana 44 8.8inch with 4.10 gears I think. I am open to any advice and tips.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Your rear axle isn't a D44, it's an 8.8, built by Ford. The Bronco axle should have a tag stating it's gear ratio, most of those were 3.55.
I have been told you can swap over the Bronco axle, along with it's radius arms, and use 6" lift coils for it to clear everything. I have done a straight axle swap on an F250, and the front crossmember of the frame hangs quite low requiring a lift.
I have been told you can swap over the Bronco axle, along with it's radius arms, and use 6" lift coils for it to clear everything. I have done a straight axle swap on an F250, and the front crossmember of the frame hangs quite low requiring a lift.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 27
From: NJ
You'll be fine with those ratios. The swap is pretty straightforward. You'll need to use the '70s radius arms and also '70s radius arm drop brackets. 4" lift will be sufficient. You'll need to run the newer coil buckets on the exle to get the springs bolted up easiest, but older style can be made to work. Depends on what type of spring you run really. You'll also need to fab up a track bar mount bracket and possible a new bar. It's not to bad of a swap, just a little fab involved and a couple things can throw you for a loop depending on what parts you have.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 27
From: NJ
Caster can give you a lot more trouble than wandering or touchy steering. Not enough and you will be likely to wind up with some nasty death wobble. I'd say 4*-5* should be a safe bet Under 3* and you're inviting death wobble.
Since you're going through the extra work to go leaf I'd recommend doing a D60, but that's just me. They're already set up with perches at the right width if you get an '83-'97 axle and the strength is nice. Good time to do a full float Sterling in the rear too. Sterling are dime a dozen and damn strong. The rear would pretty much be a bolt in job. Just need wider hangers and shackles as I believe the half ton setup is half inch narrower springs.
Also up frnot don't do Fords crappy front shackle design. Go with a proper rear shackle design and you'll have a much nicer riding truck with more stability. With rear shackle you should not need a track bar (assuming proper caster angle!), so this will simplify the setup. Newer Super Duty springs are longer and will ride softer and flex more to help make up for the lost flex going with a leaf setup.
Since you're going through the extra work to go leaf I'd recommend doing a D60, but that's just me. They're already set up with perches at the right width if you get an '83-'97 axle and the strength is nice. Good time to do a full float Sterling in the rear too. Sterling are dime a dozen and damn strong. The rear would pretty much be a bolt in job. Just need wider hangers and shackles as I believe the half ton setup is half inch narrower springs.
Also up frnot don't do Fords crappy front shackle design. Go with a proper rear shackle design and you'll have a much nicer riding truck with more stability. With rear shackle you should not need a track bar (assuming proper caster angle!), so this will simplify the setup. Newer Super Duty springs are longer and will ride softer and flex more to help make up for the lost flex going with a leaf setup.
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