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Well...Just an update believe I found my cause for the blue smoke, performed a compression test yesterday, although 7 of my cylinders were all 350PSI starting first crank at 200PSI, cylinder #3 only registered 75PSI not good... So for those that have been here before, help me with my decision. Weigh my options for those that have been here. Rebuild vs Salvage motor vs new long block with warranty. All are viable options in my opinion but I believe if I can get a salvage motor under $1000 I wouldn't be scared of another used motor. I did after all get 270,000 miles out of this one. Thanks for any opinions and options in advance. I do not have the resources to rebuild it myself, so I would appreciate, those that have done it to weigh the cost of the warrantied $1500 rebuild kit vs a new long block as well.
Could it be the valves not seating properly. Maybe it just needs some head work. Still probly not an easy task but better than an engine swap. Just an idea!
I would love if that were the case, but I'm not sure how to properly diagnose the issues? I have pulled the pushrods all were great shape no bends, all valve springs are in place but beyond that I haven't investigated too much more.
It seems you would have lots of blow by if it were the pistons. I'm just hoping it's not as difficult as removing the engine for whatever the fix would be!!
For example my blow by, does not seem too severe, covering the oil fill with one sheet of tissue paper, it will not blow a hole through it. There is pressure, it WILL lift the cap upside down about 1/8th inch, put a golfball in the fill and it stays in about like the example someone showed last week. Performance...its hit or miss, which I thought was associated with the injectors getting the 1276 #6 high to low, but have replaced all but the IDM now. I dont notice real performance issues all the time, above 1200 RPM truck will pull like a train, no blue smoke, most of the time, then all of the sudden it will stutter, puff some blue, then back to normal, very intermently. After going through all the possibilities I could think of all I had left was the compression test. Guess I should have listened to my CCT balance fault on #3 for the last 2 years. Just figured it was due to grey CPS.
I think you can do a leak down test to see where you are loosing compression. I'm not familiar the procedure. Maybe start a new thread or talk to your dealership to see what they say.