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How much does it cost Blackstone to check out my oil?
So Delo400 has good additives in it or you guys are adding additives?
$24, and well worth it to know the internal condition of your engine. Boron, calcium, magnesium, and a few others are additives are in the package in Delo 400. It is not recommended to add additives to any Powerstroke.
How much does it cost Blackstone to check out my oil?
So Delo400 has good additives in it or you guys are adding additives?
NEVER add any additives to the engine oil!!!!! the Delo 15w40 is a good dino oil if you can't go the synthetic Rotella right now.
Just stay away from FRAM filters unless its an emergency!!
NEVER add any additives to the engine oil!!!!! the Delo 15w40 is a good dino oil if you can't go the synthetic Rotella right now.
Just stay away from FRAM filters unless its an emergency!!
Bad fram! I would rather use a pop bottle than a fram.
Running Delvac 15w40 in all our trucks w/ Mob 1 filters - Blackstone analysis looks good for all. IMHO - Really the brand of oil isn't a huge deal just change it regularly, use a good air & oil filters, keep an eye on the level and top off as necessary. Oil analysis is optional but I do recommend it if you are going to run extended intervals as it can catch things going south and save the eng.
Just one hint before you drain the oil, make sure you have a BIG oil pan, my first oil change I found out my oil pan held 2.5 gallons and my garage floor held the rest......
On the oil and filters, any name brand 15w40 dino oil rated for a diesel will work fine, or 5w40 syn, or 10w 40 syn/dino blend. Filter wise, teh only poor performing one i can think of is the fram, the rest are good filters.
I will say that when I ran delo 400 LE, it made my truck alot louder than when I ran Rotella, just like Joe above mentioned on his, so I gave the last 2 jugs away from Costco 6 pack. But that said, thats only 2 of us out of a ton of folks that run that oil, its good stuff.
The Motorcraft is actually a Purolator, and the Napa is a Wix. Both great oil filters, but I think the primary reason most here pick the Motorcraft FL1995 is the $10 price tag.
You can never go wrong with the OEM filter. Most of the oil (Delo, Rotella) is good oil. If it wasn't any count it wouldnt be around still. Just make sure ou change it religiously and you will be fine. Also look into changing the diff fluid as well. I used mobil 1 fully synthetic in the diff
I have my drivetrain guy going to do a full check up on my front and rear sometime soon (when i got the money) He has the same truck and he likes running redline oil in the rear and valvoline in the front.
Just one hint before you drain the oil, make sure you have a BIG oil pan, my first oil change I found out my oil pan held 2.5 gallons and my garage floor held the rest......
On the oil and filters, any name brand 15w40 dino oil rated for a diesel will work fine, or 5w40 syn, or 10w 40 syn/dino blend. Filter wise, teh only poor performing one i can think of is the fram, the rest are good filters.
I will say that when I ran delo 400 LE, it made my truck alot louder than when I ran Rotella, just like Joe above mentioned on his, so I gave the last 2 jugs away from Costco 6 pack. But that said, thats only 2 of us out of a ton of folks that run that oil, its good stuff.
I hope to change the oil on my dad's 4 post car lift, if it is indeed the 10,000lb one. Then i can use his 15 gallon oil pan If not i am screwed haha
OK so i am going to do my trucks first oil change since i bought it. They told me they changed the oil and the oil looked ok but i still don't know so i am going to do it. My truck has 170K and i am thinking about using Delo 400. Is Delo400 good oil? I wanted to go full synethetic but its 30 dollars a gallon and i am kinda broke right now
What do you guys suggest?
To add to what was stated above, I have seen some very good/excellent UOA reports on 7.3L's running Shell Rotella T-4(15W-40), Rotella T-6(5W-40), Delo 400 15W-40 and Schaeffer's 7000 15W-40, Schaeffer's 9000 5W-40. Wether you go with a full synthetic, syn blend or a dino oil has alot to do with the average temps where you live. Some in the colder climates like the 5W-40 oils for the better cold start characteristics.
A UOA report is always a good idea since it is relatively inexpensive IMO - about $20 depending on the lab you choose.
My choice (as many know ) is Schaeffer's 7000 15W-40. Have been running this brand for about 100K miles. Up to about 10K OCI (oil change intervals) now. But I would not suggest any OCI over 5K without getting a UOA done to establish a baseline and some historical results.
Looks like you have to much money, I can help you out with that problem.
I have a 68 notchback that has been sitting in the garage for about 8 years now waiting for me to do something with it. I picked it up from a guy in town that originally got it from vegas so it is fairly clean and strait. It has/had a vinyl top that I assume was replaced at some point. When I pull it off there was a flower and what looks like a dove and some what I believe is 60's early 70's writing in spray paint on the roof.
In the time that I owned the car I had went from plans of a 460 (which I bought and also has been sitting around) to getting a wrecked 03+ cobra and swapping over the drivetrain and some of the interior to the 68. But then I think it would be easier to get a older wrecked lightning and swapping that drivetrain over because the 351 should bolt in pretty easily. I haven't started work on it yet because I know once I start it won't get done for quite some time and can cost me all kinds of money.
Very nice 68? you have there! You didn't happen to come up to wisconsin 5-6 years ago and buy a 65 did you? A few guys came up and bought my 65 that I was restoring. All of them had older stangs and we ended up talking and looking at pictures and cars pretty much all day long.
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