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i have a 2001 f350 7.3 w/ 222000 miles it just started with a rough idle while stopped at traffic light with foot on brake and some times studders while shifting into over drive, with both it throws a check engine light on then it immediatley returns to driving fine and after driving for a mile or so the check engine light will shut off.
i have ran the codes and im coming back with:
P0197 INDICATES THAT ENGINE OIL TEMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT IS OUT OF RANGE LOW
P0237-P0238 INDICATES A TURBO BOOST SENSOR CIRCUIT AND PERFORMANCE CONCERN.
Clear those codes and see what pops back up next time the CEL is set.
With the way you describe your symptoms, and the codes you pulled, I would say it's pointing to a bad EOT (engine oil temp) sensor. Clearing the codes and having the PCM throw new codes will confirm before going out and buying new parts to replace.
ok this morning i drove it after having it pluged into the block heater last night and it did not do it in my 20 mile or so drive. i also unpluged and pluged the map sensor back in.
well i did an oil change thinking that maybe the oil w/ 7k on it would possiably make it run rough but mit still idiling rough when sitting at a stop light until it the check engine light comes on and then it runs fine. its like it going into a fail safe mode something. it also continues to surge or buck while traveling between 45-55 then the check engine light and then it will run fine. i dont really want to pay someone 100$ to look at it when i know its some thing easy to fix
Ok this happened to me minus the check engine light...
IPR injector pressure regulator- I believe there is a magnet inside that can break apart and cause erratic oil pressures that make the fuel delivery erratic.
I got mine changed because it was "skipping" sooo bad when it was cold and still hesitated when lightly on the throttle warm.
well i did an oil change thinking that maybe the oil w/ 7k on it would possiably make it run rough but mit still idiling rough when sitting at a stop light until it the check engine light comes on and then it runs fine. its like it going into a fail safe mode something. it also continues to surge or buck while traveling between 45-55 then the check engine light and then it will run fine. i dont really want to pay someone 100$ to look at it when i know its some thing easy to fix
You may have more than one problem.
To start pull the connector from the ICP sensor. This will cause the PCM to go to default fueling table. If it idles better the ICP sensor is bad. If there is oil in the ICP sensor connector and/or harness connector the ICP sensor should be replaced. After you try this start a NEW THREAD and describe the symptoms, what you did and the outcome. You'll get more and better help if you start your own thread.
Originally Posted by Mitch1407
IPR injector pressure regulator- I believe there is a magnet inside that can break apart and cause erratic oil pressures that make the fuel delivery erratic.
Mitch
Just to clarify the magnet is on the outside of the IPR. It is referred to as the solenoind and just slips off the IPR when the nut is removed. It is an electromagnet controlled by a 400 hertz signal from the PCM. It is what positions the needle valve in the IPR to control ICP duty cycle.
there is oil in the ICP sensor plug, i checked it yesterday just for giggles. i will pull the plug and check to see if that corrects. someone prior to me has replaced the harness about three inches prior to the sensor and ran another wire into the cab im still working on tracing where it goes once inside. there are only three wires coming from the plug correct.
there is oil in the ICP sensor plug, i checked it yesterday just for giggles. i will pull the plug and check to see if that corrects. someone prior to me has replaced the harness about three inches prior to the sensor and ran another wire into the cab im still working on tracing where it goes once inside. there are only three wires coming from the plug correct.
As I said before, if there is oil in the ICP sensor it needs to be replaced.
Three wires from harness to the ICP sensor.
That wire that is spliced in and going to the cab may have been an adjustable 10K Mod. The 10K Mod goes back years and is really obsolete since the advent of tuners.
well i pulled the plug on the ICP sensor and drove my normal route while stopped at the stop light again stated to idle down/ rough let foot off brake and it would run fine.
it did not surge or studder while at normal traveling speed.
i plugged the ICP back in and it still did the same while stopped with foot on brake and then it showed check engine light and smoothed back out.
THIS IS MY THREAD! should i wire it back to stock when i replace it ?
the stealership wants 175$ for the sensor alone without a harness!!!!