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Not a painter by no means but old school technology was wiping it down with viniger however today you can try self etching primer.
But the viniger works.
How goes them brakes if you have moved on to body and paint are you pleased with the caddy conversion and hydro?
Not a painter by no means but old school technology was wiping it down with viniger however today you can try self etching primer.
But the viniger works.
How goes them brakes if you have moved on to body and paint are you pleased with the caddy conversion and hydro?
After working for about five days on the Caddy disc conversion, I went right into the hydro conversion, and that took 4 days. After that I was burnt out and just wanted to drive it for a while. This is where I stand: The rear right caliper was dragging too much, but I'm hoping that with wear it will/or has relaxed. 2. The ebrake is not working due to cable mounting hassle. I need to either move the left rear cal to the rear of the axle, like the right side, or just mess with the cable.
3. The hydro/disc conversion/new lines/new adjustable proportioning valve was the best thing I have done with the truck. It stops unbelieveably easy and true.
I'm trying to motivate myself into getting back under it and finishing the ebrake. All considering, I would tell anyone to ... run from the Caddy calipers unless they have 5 days to do the installation, and that is w/o the time rebuilding, pulling from j/yard, driving to find new seals, etc. The $300 for new re engineered ones from TSM would have been a bargain, and if I can't get the ebrake to work, or the one cal to let up pressure, I may still go that route!!! The Caddy Calipers are a MAJOR PIA!!!!
The cowling is actually galvanealed, rather than dipped galvanized. Other than normal etching primer, and then some primer/ filler you don't need to do any other prep.
The inner fenders are the ones that cause the most problems with peeling paint.