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GALVANIZED COWLING PAINT

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Old May 16, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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GALVANIZED COWLING PAINT

About 6 years ago I painted my truck. I was told to use a special primer on the galvanized cowling, but ignored the advice. I now have huge bald spots where the paint flew away on the freeway.

What is the best way to remove existing paint? What primer should I use? Do I mask down in the louvers? Any guidance is much appreciated.

k
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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Self etch or epoxy primer is best for galvanized. Self etch and epoxy are available at an auto body supply or Eastwood. hardware and Home improvement stores sell Rustoleum brand self etch in spray bomb.

For cleaning the old, paint remover will work but messy with possible damage to surrounding areas. I'd try physical removal first. A wire wheel and scraper for a start. A small wheel in a die grinder can get the tight spots. Wear glasses!
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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galvanize

stripping down to bear metal,on any part of the truck self etching,,,,inner fenders self etching
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 11:43 PM
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Paint remover is messy and a disc on a grinder will not only remove the paint but will remove metal as well and create divots that requires actual bodywork with primer surfacer + block sanding.

I recommend using 80-grit on a DA and red or brown Roloc discs on a right-angle pneumatic die grinder for the vent slits.... minimal heat build-up and the metal stays put.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue and White
Self etch or epoxy primer is best for galvanized. Self etch and epoxy are available at an auto body supply or Eastwood. hardware and Home improvement stores sell Rustoleum brand self etch in spray bomb.

For cleaning the old, paint remover will work but messy with possible damage to surrounding areas. I'd try physical removal first. A wire wheel and scraper for a start. A small wheel in a die grinder can get the tight spots. Wear glasses!
Wire wheel and a scraper? All that is going to do is make more work for him. Like stated 80 grit on a DA works fine. When done with 80 then go over it with 180 to remove the sand scratches.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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sand scratches

"When done with 80 then go over it with 180 to remove the sand scratches. " Thats cool Im stripping my cab,down now.I didnot know that about 180,that will help me out alot ,,,,Thankyou
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 10:59 AM
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Thanks for the help, guys. I'm assuming that once the self etching primer is dry, I prep it for paint like any other primer, by sanding it with 320 gt? for paint?

I also wanted to ask: I had a magnetic sign on for quite a while. To my surprise, when I removed it I found two bubbles in the paint. They eventually cracked and revealed bare metal. Has any one else experienced this? Expensive ... signs!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:27 PM
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Today I went to buy the primer and paint. After speaking to the sales person I'm more confused now. I will strip the galv. cowling, but will also be doing a bit of bondo/body work near the antenna hole.

When I was a body work guy, we'd grind the area and bondo on bare metal, then primer over bondo and exposed bare metal. What procedure do I now need to follow. For example, do I now apply bondo over self etching primer? What primer do I use to cover bondo?

Thanks, guys.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Bondo over metal as you are used to or over epoxy primer. NOT over self etch. If you have a mix of bare metal and bondo, it can all be covered by a thin coat of self etch before you apply primer/surfacer.

If you have a lot of area with mix of metal and bondo, epoxy makes a better primer.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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Well, I primed the cowling with a self etching primer. I found the cylindrical cones used for porting worked well in the louvers. Most of the paint just flaked off in large pieces with I touched it.

Now I have to sand and apply primer once more to fill a bit, and then paint. I felt rinky dink to use spray can primer, but the restrictions are so tight here in Cali. My paint will be spray can too. That is the only way I can get acrylic enamel. Good think it's a small area, and actually, the small fan tip works well with the louvers.

Thanks for the help, guys. It is such a good feeling to not have large rust spots showing, and to drive the freeway w/o flaps of paint flying off, ha ha.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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A little late on the draw here, but almost anything from 3M's Roloc line of stuff works great for pulling finishes off while not damaging the metal it's protecting. For something with contours, their bristle disks work great and come in several grits.

 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 12:18 AM
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I stripped it down and covered with 3 coats of a self etching primer. The guy at the paint supply said to scuff but not sand, that the dust is detrimental to health. I do have some scratches that need to be filled. Any advice for second type of primer?

Thanks, guys.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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The best thing to do would be to talk to whoever you're going to buy your paint from. You want to make sure to use primer that is compatible with your paint system. The next step is probably going to be high-build epoxy primer.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 11:53 PM
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I'm really shocked. It has been almost a month since I primed the cowling and haven't been able to put on either an epoxy primer or paint. Today I noticed that my self etching primer is flaking off!

Is that normal? Prep was done by sanding, then blew it off and wiped with lacquer thinner and sprayed. What did I do wrong and how do I fix the problem?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 07:32 AM
  #15  
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cowl

Yes .self etching needs to be covered soon after you apply,prone to moisture.Epoxy gives you all the time you need.
 
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