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ARP studs

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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
10-11degree is well within spec.

You don;t have a problem.

Hence, why spend money to "solve" a problem you don't have and the fixing might break something else?


If you must burn money, do a 2 VC9 flush and see if the temps go down.
Did it already less that 5 month ago... And these repairs would be under warranty
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #17  
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Warranty repairs, even if free, if done by an incompetent or corner cutting tech... often result in other problems down the line.


I didnt catch the OP post that said install ARP without lifting cab and heads!!!

But it is now clear to me that this tech you are talking to is by our standards, less than... desirable.

Do you really want to use them?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bismic
I don't recall cheezit advocating head studs WITHOUT removing the heads. The heads MUST be removed if you are going to check them for flatness. Some people have changed them out without removing the heads and gotten lucky - so it can be done. It just isn't prudent IMO. If you can afford to do it over again, then no harm in trying I guess. DSMMH has done this w/ success if you want to look him up.

Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....

I agree.. Why do it half assed and question having to do it again in the future?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #19  
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After finding/getting advise from this site, i changed mine using the post by dsmmh, with no problems yet.Why lift the cab to change a good part, true there
are risks.Life is full of risks/rewards
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Warranty repairs, even if free, if done by an incompetent or corner cutting tech... often result in other problems down the line.


I didnt catch the OP post that said install ARP without lifting cab and heads!!!

But it is now clear to me that this tech you are talking to is by our standards, less than... desirable.

Do you really want to use them?

By our standards??? I would say he is competent... I have dealt with him before and he has done A+ work ...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Curt's05
After finding/getting advise from this site, i changed mine using the post by dsmmh, with no problems yet.Why lift the cab to change a good part, true there
are risks.Life is full of risks/rewards
Glad it worked out for you, but ...

The OP is clearly not doing the work himself, so it will cost him quite a bit later if it is not done correctly enough to last. As of now, he seems to NOT be paying for it. Each situation should be considered individually.

Again - the odds are favoring having future issues vs not if they are done in-cab. I will admit, the more people that try it without removing the heads, it helps get a better picture of the probability of success.

Hey - it is easy for any of us to say over the internet - "Go for it". How many people need to have problems before it is poor advice? 1 in 10? 1 in 100? How long is a reasonable time to claim success? 1 yr? 5 yrs? 10 yrs? What kind of operating conditions dictate success? fast driving? Towing 15k+ lbs? Towing heavy in 110 *F heat? Hopefully there is enough advice to get a complete picture of the risks so there is no finger pointing later. I would say the OP now knows the upsides and downsides ............. good luck whichever way the decision goes.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #22  
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I would like to here from anyone who has done the arp stud conversion without pulling the heads and have had failures...and let me add that wasn't already showing HG failure before the conversion

Also let me elaborate...So people don't make assumptions about other peoples knowledge or ability... My tech doesn't advocate doing it that way but said it can be done and he has done it with no issues... He also said if the HG were gone he would pull the cab and do the heads and bill it under warranty.... The studs were an option (which I would pay for) when he changes out the oil cooler and egr cooler ..
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Speedjester
I would like to here from anyone who has done the arp stud conversion without pulling the heads and have had failures...and let me add that wasn't already showing HG failure before the conversion

Also let me elaborate...So people don't make assumptions about other peoples knowledge or ability... My tech doesn't advocate doing it that way but said it can be done and he has done it with no issues... He also said if the HG were gone he would pull the cab and do the heads and bill it under warranty.... The studs were an option (which I would pay for) when he changes out the oil cooler and egr cooler ..
FWIW, and contrary to others opinions, I would strongly suggest ARP's just for the added confidence (THESE ENGINES TAKE ALOT OF STRESS AND HIGH COMBUSTION PRESSURES WITH HALF OF THE BOLTS THE COMPETITION IS RUNNING)! On a side note, My best friend needed a head job, and the Service Manager ASKED HIM if he wanted studs. The Service Manager told him that his truck only had a month of warranty left and that the studs WILL void his warranty, but that THEY, The service department, would foot the bill if something went wrong in a set time frame. Ford paid the bill for their parts, (headgaskets, oil/egr cooler and all the other miscellaneous) He paid for the studs and the extra hr to install outta his pocket, and TOWS WITH CONFIDANCE now! As for doing 1 at a time without replacing headgaskets and checking heads, I say you are already in it this far, Just get it done! I am aware of others doing it with no ill effects, (I have thought about this too) but I would only dare it if the truck (or if the gaskets were just done) was new, (like a thousand or 2 miles on it with light use). My opinions, and I WILL BE STUDDING OUTTA MY POCKET IN MY (step dads) GARAGE WITHOUT A FANCY LIFT!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #24  
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but ,, that being said ,, you can not even do the proper ARP torque sequence doing it one at a time ..

better than not doing it at all ? maybe ??
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #25  
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With mls type gaskets it is possible to have the heads lift then reseal. Let's start at the root cause..... Why does your tech think the heads may be lifting? Typically what causes the head gaskets to fail is heat, pressure and time... All while lacking coolant. Typically again routed from a blown egr cooler or plugged oil cooler. It is possible to lift the heads without the oil or egr cooler failing but a lot less likely. Are you showing signs of puking, coolant loss or white smoke at start up?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #26  
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ok i have a stupid question my 6.0 just got new head gaskets and tty bolts before i bought it because there was a leak and the dealer thought it was coming from the heads when it turned out to be the egr cooler. the heads were sent out and decked and checked but i really want to do head studs before something bad happens i planned to pull my cab but could i leave the heads on and just drop studs in because of my circumstances it sounds good in my head haha and do any of you guys with head studs use stock gaskets of the black onyx ones
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:42 AM
  #27  
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Just for the record. About a year ago I helped a friend replace the tty bolts with ARP studs w/out removing the heads, and so far so good.
 
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