ARP studs
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ARP studs
Well I was talking to the mechanic at the dealership.. he said if I wanted he could change out the head bolts for head studs without removing the cab or the heads... Can this be done..... Thoughts opinions.. Thank you
Fleet Owner
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I don't recall cheezit advocating head studs WITHOUT removing the heads. The heads MUST be removed if you are going to check them for flatness. Some people have changed them out without removing the heads and gotten lucky - so it can be done. It just isn't prudent IMO. If you can afford to do it over again, then no harm in trying I guess. DSMMH has done this w/ success if you want to look him up.
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
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No mods and Don't tow that often maybe twice a yr... But was thinking as preventive maintenance...(since I do run the truck hard 80-85 mph) Tech said he would do it for me.. when he did the oil cooler and egr cooler ... Since I'm a little concerned that my heads maybe lifting under boost...
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Senior User
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I don't recall cheezit advocating head studs WITHOUT removing the heads. The heads MUST be removed if you are going to check them for flatness. Some people have changed them out without removing the heads and gotten lucky - so it can be done. It just isn't prudent IMO. If you can afford to do it over again, then no harm in trying I guess. DSMHH has done this w/ success if you want to look him up.
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
So your saying the heads would have to come off...My mechanic said he could do them one at a time...But things look tight ..Just wondering if all the head bolts can be pulled and the studs inserted without the cab or head being pulled??
Fleet Owner
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There have been numerous people w/ leaky heads AFTER installing ARP studs. It ALL must be done correctly (or you had better be a lucky individual - it is against the odds to do it w/out removing the heads).
As I said, talk to DSMMH if you really want to try it.
As I said, talk to DSMMH if you really want to try it.
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Post Fiend
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I don't recall cheezit advocating head studs WITHOUT removing the heads. The heads MUST be removed if you are going to check them for flatness. Some people have changed them out without removing the heads and gotten lucky - so it can be done. It just isn't prudent IMO. If you can afford to do it over again, then no harm in trying I guess. DSMHH has done this w/ success if you want to look him up.
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
Cheezit has stated that the cab does NOT have to be lifted and also, the MOTOR does not have to be pulled. No statement about the heads staying on that I recall ....
Thanks, bismic.
That is what I recalled he said....
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Post Fiend
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How is running at 80-85mph lightly loaded (or even fully loaded) "hard" running?
You are still only drawing a small fraction of the maximum output of the engine.
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Can't say they are lifting...But had a nice conversation with the diesel tech.. And he was explaining to me that they can lift is there is too much boost.. then just sit back down and run fine until next time... He doesn't believe there leaking he put a gauge on it and took it for a run... He said pressure was fine... But he went on too say that he cant duplicate all situations.. That cruising at 80+ on a Hill and dropping the pedal can raise boost pressure on occasion.. and the head may lift..
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I figure the truck is heavy.. I'm usually driving on mountainous road at 80+ for 3-4 hrs and the truck is as aerodynamic as a brick.. So I figure its got to put some load on the engine
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From: Green Lane, Pa.
Can't say they are lifting...But had a nice conversation with the diesel tech.. And he was explaining to me that they can lift is there is too much boost.. then just sit back down and run fine until next time... He doesn't believe there leaking he put a gauge on it and took it for a run... He said pressure was fine... But he went on too say that he cant duplicate all situations.. That cruising at 80+ on a Hill and dropping the pedal can raise boost pressure on occasion.. and the head may lift..
Running 80-85 on level ground you can expect to see around 6-8 psi. boost, and on a hill maybe 15 lb. empty. Add 5 more to those figures with a load.
Post Fiend
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Give me your actual weight (on a typical trip).
Give me your frontal cross section (measured in meters sq)
A very quick back of the envelope calculation can estimate how much power you are actually needing for that kind of travel.
Mountains?
OK... the reason the 6.0 is so reliable is because it is only maxxing out at 400ft lbs of torque in mine, and 570 in the F series... and not 800ft lbs.
You will notice the commercial IH versions of the engine are roughly the same speced.. only slightly lower power.
It can put out 50 to 80 percent of rated all day.
That is, if rated is:
Horsepower: 325HP @ 3300 RPM
Torque: 570 @ 2000 RPM
You can probably do 200hp continuous.. and I bet you are not running that..
RMS... say 250hp easily and safely.
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Senior User
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Give me your actual weight (on a typical trip).
Give me your frontal cross section (measured in meters sq)
A very quick back of the envelope calculation can estimate how much power you are actually needing for that kind of travel.
Mountains?
OK... the reason the 6.0 is so reliable is because it is only maxxing out at 400ft lbs of torque in mine, and 570 in the F series... and not 800ft lbs.
You will notice the commercial IH versions of the engine are roughly the same speced.. only slightly lower power.
It can put out 50 to 80 percent of rated all day.
That is, if rated is:
Horsepower: 325HP @ 3300 RPM
Torque: 570 @ 2000 RPM
You can probably do 200hp continuous.. and I bet you are not running that..
RMS... say 250hp easily and safely.
Give me your frontal cross section (measured in meters sq)
A very quick back of the envelope calculation can estimate how much power you are actually needing for that kind of travel.
Mountains?
OK... the reason the 6.0 is so reliable is because it is only maxxing out at 400ft lbs of torque in mine, and 570 in the F series... and not 800ft lbs.
You will notice the commercial IH versions of the engine are roughly the same speced.. only slightly lower power.
It can put out 50 to 80 percent of rated all day.
That is, if rated is:
Horsepower: 325HP @ 3300 RPM
Torque: 570 @ 2000 RPM
You can probably do 200hp continuous.. and I bet you are not running that..
RMS... say 250hp easily and safely.
I probably carry 1000-1200 lbs... Cant tell you the sq meter of the front of the truck.. Can tell you its not very aerodynamic looking .. I'm going by what was explained by the tech.... as he tried to explain to me why my ect and eot would sometimes spread to 10-11 degree difference on the hills at 85 mph and would drop to 5-6 degree spread at 55-60 mph on the same hill...
Post Fiend
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10-11degree is well within spec.
You don;t have a problem.
Hence, why spend money to "solve" a problem you don't have and the fixing might break something else?
If you must burn money, do a 2 VC9 flush and see if the temps go down.
You don;t have a problem.
Hence, why spend money to "solve" a problem you don't have and the fixing might break something else?
If you must burn money, do a 2 VC9 flush and see if the temps go down.