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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #61  
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Has this truck run since you replaced the distributor?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PeterSr
I was speaking frin experience regardless of what Ohms Law stands for in people's mind. You will never know until you check out the Fusible Links to the important parts of your truck, i.e., ECM, starter, alternator. The fusible link from the starter relay to the starter solenoid may be at fault. However, you have several others that need to be checked out carefully from start to finish before assuming that they (the fusible links) are not at fault. Whatever the case, your problem appears to be electrically connected.
I have been thinking that it would be nice to know what state these posts come from. It would certainly help diagnosis.

Is it from a rust state>
Things rust from underneath up north and rust from the top down in Florida .

Bad sheetmetal and other grounds can drive anyone insane and they are critical and they are everywhere!

Not to mention the help we get with our wiring from mice.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #63  
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Where might I find these fusible links?

As far as I can tell, the timing is not 180 off. Checked valve position. (Or rocker arm position to be more accurate.) And put it at TDC, I did the tests my manual says to check for a stretched timing chain, it would appear to be fine.

I am from Washington. I have little to no rust at all on the truck. I have ONE rusty spot on the truck, but it is under the rear of the cab and very very very minimal. No where else on the truck has any at all.

The wiring under the dash is all good, and the wiring under the engine bay, although not tucked away perfectly, is still good. Any questionable spots were fixed up or replaced.

Jas, it has run since I replaced the distributor. But it was not a new one. It has not run since I replaced the pickup inside of the distributor. There is no shaft play in the distributor.


Maybe this can give you guys some more insight.
It seems that it is somewhat flooding, if I pull the plugs they are wet with gas. However, the fuel pressure at the rail is 40psi. (It's supposed to be between 35-45psi.) I think the fuel on the plugs may be caused by not starting, and continuously trying to start it. Or maybe there is another cause? It almost seems that it starts better when the fuel source is cut off. (But never does it actually start.)

When I check for spark, it is sparking continuously, however when the plugs are in the engine it does not fire continuously. I think I will replace the spark plugs and see if it helps. (Although I do not have high hopes that it will, they were replaced not long ago and still look good.)
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #64  
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What color is the spark?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #65  
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I read threw and did not see,so i'll ask, Does the check engine light come on with the key in run position??????????
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 10:08 AM
  #66  
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Yeah it does, as well as the other lights that should when you turn the key on.

As for the color of the spark.. I want to say yellow, but I also want to say blue?
Haha i'm not sure exactly. But when I checked spark with a screwdriver it is a large spark that can jump a pretty good gap.

I can check for sure tonight when I get home from work.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #67  
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Blue is good, orange is weak spark.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #68  
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Blue spark.

Any idea where I might find these "fusible links" ?

Changing out the spark plugs today.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Prozon
Any idea where I might find these "fusible links" ?
Wires with a little rubber tab on the end connected to the hot side of your starter solenoid.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #70  
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How do I go about checking these?

I've decided against changing the spark plugs. They look brand new, and it really hasn't had many miles on it since I did change them last. They're a little wet with gas, but besides that they look perfect.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #71  
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Don't you have a multimeter?
If not; Are they blistered? Can you pull them apart lengthwise?

Plugs can often foul with fuel and appear fine, especially with a compromised ignition system.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #72  
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Oh, I didn't think about a multimeter haha.

I have heard that quite a lot, which was my initial reasoning behind changing them, but if it still sparks fine, and it looks fine.. it seems to me like it would be fine.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #73  
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The fuse links would bad or good, no in between.
I would say all of your fuse links are OK as they do not change from bad to good and back again.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #74  
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Any progress with the the truck?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:39 AM
  #75  
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No, I really don't have any idea where to go next on this thing.
I'm stumped. -_-

The only thing I could think to do is rip out all of the electrical, replace it, get a new computer and try that.

But I don't have money to do that, so I don't know.
 
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