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Radius Arm Bushing replacement

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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #1  
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Question Radius Arm Bushing replacement

Ok, gotta replace the Radius Arm bushings on my '78 F150 2WD. It looks pretty straight forward, The mounts on the frame are bolted on instead of riveted so I'm going to try removing everything from the back end without using a come-along to shift things around. My question is this: Do I have to elevate the front end and remove the wheel to do this, or can it be done sitting on the ground? And what size is that nut on the end of the radius arm that holds everything together? It's going to need to be done in a friends carport so I need to know the best way to approach this.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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well that big nut if i remember is 1 1/8" and if you can unbolt the frame mounts then it should work and try first on the ground you can always jack it up
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 06:57 PM
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harley dude
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radius arm bushing replacement

just finished mine..1 1/8 nut. just leave on the ground... may use a floor jack on the arm to raise if needed...may want to check the parts before you start...mine were wrong....right # wrong parts
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 12:16 AM
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73 fourxfour
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Nice paint job Pappabear!!! I replaced my bushings a couple years ago. It was a pain. I ended up grinding the rivots off the bracket and replacing with bolts. I couldn't push the arm far enough forward without using a jack to get the arm out of the bracket. There is a big debate on whether or not it's harmful to use a jack. Anyways, I chose the bracket removal route. Besides that, my local parts store had two different size bushings. I also had to really lube the bushings and whack them to get them on. I thought the whole job would be done in under an hour, but with multiple runs to the part store etc, it ate up half a day. Knowing what I know now I could do it in under an hour. Good Luck!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 01:40 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. The repair took 3 1/2 hours from start to finish and the truck rolls smooth and quiet again. I did use a comealong but only to nudge things back into position after I had taken the brackets off. Again, a cheap repair. Parts were a total of $35, pizza afterwards to thank the buddy that let me use his carport $12. It proved to me AGAIN that I just can't afford a newer truck, this one is way too cheap to keep running! Plus working on it saves me thousands of dollars in therapy every year and has kept me out of divorce court. We have a fight, I work on the truck for an hour or so, come back in after everyone has cooled off....
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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That sounds like great, low cost, therapy Poppabear.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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This is good to know. I was looking at doing this very swap tomorrow. Can't wait to feel how the truck drives with new bushings.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 02:23 AM
  #8  
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I replaced the rear radius arm bushing on my 74 2wd dually F350 about 3 years ago, I too decided to grind the heads off the factory rivets, and replaced the rivets with grade 8 bolts & nuts. My old bushings on the drivers side had swelled up and split due to a leaking PS box seal allowing the ps fluid to destroy the old bushings. Rather than use the rubber bushings, I went with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, which were about 1/2 the cost of OE style rubber.
 
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