Hi all, my 65 with 352 seems to run well, no noises or anything and am "fixing" the body, doing disc brakes, for a daily driver. I will change belts and hoses, fuel pump, water pump, and maybe oil pump when I replace the oil pan gasket. Anything anyone else would change to be on the safe side? Don't want to be on the side of the road a couple hundred miles from home. Thanks, John

 

I have found having power steering to be very helpful.

 

FWIW - how many miles does the truck have on it? maybe jack it up in the rear and check the rear wheel bearings. with age these bearings have a way of dying when least expected especially when you are hauling a load.these axles have to have the bearings pressed on by a shop unless you have your own equipment. just a thought tho.if there is any lift in the wheel when you test it ,it is about 80 percent gone.also you can hear a grumbling noise when you turn the wheel if they are bad. just something to check for your own peace of mind. Dutch

 

Depends on what type of daily driver you need. I got my old truck running after it had been sitting at a ranch for years. Oil change, fresh gas and plug wires were all I needed. It did smoke a lot but so what, it drove well. I would do the soft parts mainly, like brake hoses, belts and hoses as you noted, other than that you should be good to go. I also have tow coverage on my insurance, just in case of course (used more with my other trucks).
--Mike

 

Been slowly turning my 65 into a daily driver and replacing parts as I got the ambition, noticed they needed replacing and had the time. I've been driving the truck a little as I make these improvements and the items that have made the biggest difference in reliability and drive-ability and have been relatively inexpensive and easy for me to do have been replacing the battery, starter, and alternator, adding an exterior clear fuel filter, adding pertronix ignition, replacing the battery and starter cables and rebuilding the carburetor. My truck has always run and driven but it used to be a real adventure and as I've made these improvements I feel a lot more confident that I won't get stuck along the road somewhere.

 

Won't hurt to change all the bulbs in taillights, turnsignals, headlights....peace of mind!!

 

John,
You didn't mention it - and rather than to assume it, I'd suggest you change all the fluids; coolant, transmission lube, differential lube, bleed the brakes at all four corners until they all run clear, and of course the motor oil & filter.

If you're up to it, I'd also suggest you remove your gas tank and manually flush it out; then re-install it. After decades of sitting around, you'll be amazed at the amount of rust & varnish you'll likely flush out of the tank. A new fuel filter, and two new sections of flex fuel line (one section is from the below the cab to the frame rail and a second section is at the fuel pump). They are likely stiff, dry-rotted and cracked. New clamps and fuel-rated flex line would be recommended. It's not a difficult nor long task to accomplish and you'll be back up & running.

One corner at a time, I'd also suggest you jack up & remove each wheel to allow you to inspect the brake shoes & drums. While apart, up front, also check out the wheel bearings and seal. Out back, check the axle seals for any seeping.

As was mentioned earlier, a new set of battery cables and clean the connections at each end. The cables can be cooroded beneath the covering and not be seen.

How are those windshield wiper blades?

How long ago were the tires balanced & rotated?

Enjoy this time 'bonding' with your ol' Slick..... Good Luck!

BarnieTrk

 

Some good thoughts here. Some of them I would have missed for sure. Thanks a lot. John

 

Why the oil pan gasket? If it is because you think it is leaking, you best make very sure to not waste the effort. The 352 is of the FE (Ford-Edsel) family of engines, and they all have a notorious reputation for leaking at the intake manifold gasket at the rear of the engine. Check there first, and then post back for advice how best to fix it. It isn't hard, just hard to maneuver that 100 pound intake around and get the leak fixed right the first time.

 

Hey Musicman, Confederate Diesel is on the mark, but while you are at it clean that engine up and check all your seals. You don't say how long it's been sitting or how many miles but if you're going to the trouble to pull the pan and change the water pump you may as well pull the timing cover and check the chain and gears. The crank seal in the front timing cover is another trouble spot on Fords, especially if it has sat any length of time. This could also be your leak. Good luck

 

Hey all i got a 65 F-100 it been sitting for years in a barn . Found out it had bent pushrods in it ..I have taken heads off .hoping that its just stuck valves or something besides cam and lifters. with that being said whats is best way to go ... get replacement parts or look for new heads .. and where to find these parts B9AE casting #'s think its 292 ... need help !! lol i cant seem to find much on a 8cylinder 292 or am i lost somewhere

 

The 292 was discontinued in 1964, its dizzy is behind the carb.

1965 would have come w/the 352, which has the dizzy in front of the carb.

I dunno what the B9AE (1959) casting number prefix refers to inre to the engine size (casting numbers cannot be decoded), but both the 292 and 352 (passenger cars only) were offered back then.

Post the VIN off the registration, that will determine what year it is and what engine it came with originally.