Well here goes I am at the end of my list and still no luck.
2004 Superduty 6.0 stock 145,000 miles and owned for less than 2500 miles.
stumbled while doing 50 and died, cranked the snot out of it restarted no problems for 1000 miles or so. Started and died cranked the snot out of it and started. no problems 500 miles. went to start and cranks but no smoke no start so the process begins:
fuel check
oil check
fuel filters changed
no codes
anti gel and cetane boost check
fuses check
batteries replaced and charged
filter full after cranking
no smoke when cranking
ficm changed
still no codes

Any help, ideas, anything would be helpful. Dont want to take to dealer but I have run out of ideas. I have searched the forum and not finding anything that helps. Please any ideas would be great. Thank you everyone.

 

Did you do a fuel pressure check? how about disconnecting the ICP connector and trying to start it?

 

you replaced and checked everything i could have thought of but if that didn't work i would take ljutic ss advice. i'm thinking it could be sensor or electrical related. but i don't know. also IMO taking it to the dealership for a $100 diagnosis could actually save you money and time from throwing parts at it that you may not need to do. GOOD LUCK!

 

I just had to replace my FICM (fuel injection control module). My truck would turn over, but wouldn't start.
Bad news is it has to go to the Ford Dealership to have the replacement programed, and the part is around $700.
Once replaced, it runs great. It is making me consider going to a gas engine, I don't drive for long trips very often.

 

Lots of options - you just don't HAVE to go to the dealership.

Options:
1. Repair the FICM - instructions in the Tech Folder
2. Send it to SWAMPS and have it repaired
3. Do option 2 above and have PHP program it for you (they can do this at SWAMPS).
4. Order the FICM from partsguyed or TousleyFordParts and then have PHP (PowerHungryPerformance) program it for you.

All will be cheaper than just going to the dealership (or going to a gas engine).

 

There is a no start thread in the Tech Folder. +1 on disconnecting the ICP sensor and then trying to start. The no-start thread describes a way to check the ICP output and translate that into a pressure (need 500 psig to start).

Is your oil filter cannister filling up when cranking?

Make sure the FICM connections are good (snapped in).

 

Sounds like to me that yu have a high pressure oil leak, or like they said ficm.. When it cranks do yu build any oil pressure?

 

What did you use to scan for codes? If the scanner wasn't OBDII compatible there may be codes stored that it was unable to retrieve.

 

Whats the swamps/PHP program do to your FICM? And how does a Injector Control Pressure Sensor control a no start issue?

 

ICP



For different High Pressure Oil System Pressure, the injectors firing has to be "modulated" by varying the timing and pulse width.

If HPOP pressure is low, the ICP signal allow it to compensate by firing sooner (because the fuel needs longer to be ejected out of the injector), and also fire longer (to do the same volume).

If the ICP signal is absent (eg if you disconnected the ICP sensor), a default value is plugged in.

If the ICP sensor is "bad", then the engine doesn't run at all as it does not get a valid signal, but yet, is not substituting a plug value.


The next route in diagnostics after FICM and ICP is probably HPOP pressure and leak test.. but again, this is not my specialty... I do electronics.

 

The PCM needs to see 500 psig from the ICP to enable a start.

There are several programs for the FICM that PHP offers. I got a fuel economy program that added some power as well - and very little turbo lag. My point was that you are not required to go to the dealership for programming your FICM (when you buy a new one, they are not programmed at that point).

 

Mark,

I did note the TSB on FICM testing does a reinstall of the firmware by default before testing.

That tells you that corruption happens and is pretty common.

Accordingly, in cases where we are telling people to chuck FICM, we might throw in a side trip to dealer to reflash it... and see if it cured problem before it is tossed.

 

So technically if the sensor is bad, you could unplug it and the engine would run on a default value?

And bismic, how much more fuel econ and HP did you get when they programed your FICM?

 

UPDATE: Okay pulled the FICM and found it to be bad. Replaced it with new from dealer (letting me do it cant tell you why but will have to pay for it if problem) anyway sure enough that was it after 568.00 it was flashed truck started running real bad. Found weak compression one cylnder, bad egr, weak #3 injector. Now thats just dandy. So now I am moving on to these issues. What is the opinion of replacing the one injector vs. changing all injectors? What is the opinion of the low compression? I was told it could be false as it was done off the scanner and not manual. How accurate would the scan compression check be? Next question and I hesitate to ask as the results may not be pretty. There was a huge discussion and almost fight over the oil. The "dealer mechanics" swear up and down that you have to run Motorcraft oil in the 6.0 or everything else causes sludge. I find this hard to accept. I have run Rotella in both of my 7.3s and have over 300,000 on both with no oil related issues. Or any issues except water pump on both. Is this motor that particular? Thanks for all the input.

 

Don't mess with the weak compression issue just yet.

That can just be from a chunk of carbon jamming a valve.

Weak injector.. someone else talk to that.

Bad egr -- carbon --- get new EGR, clean carbon.. italian tune up and see if the weak compression resolves.

At neutral / park, rev it a few times to 2,500 or so rpm and see if the weak cylinder mysteriously resolves.

Oil?

Any CJ-4 or better rated oil that is 40w hot,

I am a synthetic fan, and I run 5w-40... next winter may go to 0w-40.