Battery cables
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
ya, its easy enough. get some bulk 0, 2-0 or 4-0 if you really got $ to burn lol and get 3 copper ends that you can crimp for the starter + and block - cables, then you want 3 terminal ends for the battery itself, and one pass through end for the + cable on the passenger side.
block grounds and starter end
pass through passenger side + terminal
drivers side + and both - terminals
check out http://copper-electrical-components...._terminals.htm
block grounds and starter end
pass through passenger side + terminal
drivers side + and both - terminals
check out http://copper-electrical-components...._terminals.htm
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
I may have a source for decent cables for our trucks, ordered one through a local supplier, and should be here tomorrow. Pricing should be about $90 Canadian, so might even be feasable to resell some to you guys if there's interest.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
I pretty much know what all I'm going to be using.
I'm either going to make it all out of 3/0, or I'm going to connect the two batteries with 2/0 and just use 3/0 to the starter (like factory for the 6.9 style)
And as for the ends I plan on using the wing nut style terminal (just in case a winch makes it's way on my truck
)
I still like hearing everyone's ideas and suggestions though.
I'm either going to make it all out of 3/0, or I'm going to connect the two batteries with 2/0 and just use 3/0 to the starter (like factory for the 6.9 style)
And as for the ends I plan on using the wing nut style terminal (just in case a winch makes it's way on my truck
)I still like hearing everyone's ideas and suggestions though.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
dont think ive ever seen 3-0 its always 0, 2-0 and 4-0. and i wouldnt go wingnut. id go standard top post for the starting power. way more contact area. you can get top and side post batteries so you can use the top post for your truck electronics and the sides for any accessories you decide to add on later. just my .02 though
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
I didn't even think twice using those marine wingnut type terminals with biggest lugs. I rewired our travel trailer with a 60 amp charger/converter and also an inverter that outputs at 2500+ watts peak.
I also did the truck all around because mine were rotted from the inside. I think everything is working ok?
I bought my stuff from genuine dealz online(search google). They have some bendier type larger wire, and the little pellets you can use with the ends and a torch. They also have some nice heat shrink you can hit the ends with.
Then get yourself some protective loom. I think if you price out things at that store you could actually go bigger on the wire and still save money over a ford part? And break things apart so you can take each run apart easily.
I also did the truck all around because mine were rotted from the inside. I think everything is working ok?
I bought my stuff from genuine dealz online(search google). They have some bendier type larger wire, and the little pellets you can use with the ends and a torch. They also have some nice heat shrink you can hit the ends with.
Then get yourself some protective loom. I think if you price out things at that store you could actually go bigger on the wire and still save money over a ford part? And break things apart so you can take each run apart easily.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,701
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From: KY
If you have 3/8 stud, go with them. Thats all class 7 and 8 trucks use. Thats the way to go. If you can get "welding" cable use it. The strands are finer. Carry more current....If you go with batts with 3/8 studs you can take one of the nuts. Knock the end out of it and run a 3/8 coarse tap all the way through it. Then you can stack terminal ends on top of the nut...I use copper jugs and crimp them then solder for to insure good contact. You can get by with it, most likely, on one of these trucks with out crimping but I have seen starters draw enough when trying to crank a hard cranking engine that the solder melted and the cables blew out of the lugs....Like the others said, 2/0 cable is fine. They make 3/0 but you don't need it....I know I can make them cheaper but I do have a friend that deals in Electrical supplies wholesale. That helps. KATCO Service Parts
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,345
Likes: 802
From: Mi'kma'ki
iv been using the wing nut style terminals for over a year now.
whenever i need to add something its easy as pie.no problems at all.
stock is 2/0 everywhere.
stock up until the late 80's somewhere was 2/0 with 3/0 going down to the starter.
i went crazy and went tinned marine 3/0 everywhere lol.they will long outlive the truck,and possibly even go onto the next one.
whenever i need to add something its easy as pie.no problems at all.
stock is 2/0 everywhere.
stock up until the late 80's somewhere was 2/0 with 3/0 going down to the starter.
i went crazy and went tinned marine 3/0 everywhere lol.they will long outlive the truck,and possibly even go onto the next one.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,389
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
I re-did my cables 2 years ago. I used the stock cables, cut the terminals off, soldered on copper lugs with a propane torch like you would do plumbing in a house, then heat shrinked the connection. OH, don't forget to slide your heat shrink on BEFORE you solder the lug on!! And move the heat shrink down to the middle of the cable because if you leave it too close to the work area, you might find it has shrunk too small to slde over the connection. Live and learn!
I am running marine terminals that are a 3/8" stud with a regular nut on top. I didn't use the wingnut becuase I wasn't sure I could get it tight enough to feel secure it wouldn't just rattle off.
I used a utility knife and slit the rubber cover so it just slides over the heat shrink and covers up most of the terminal area that's exposed. Not perfect, but it helps a little bit!
I didn't do the negatves because they are in pretty good shape, the only reason I had to do the positives is because that pass-thru terminal was all busted apart.
I am running marine terminals that are a 3/8" stud with a regular nut on top. I didn't use the wingnut becuase I wasn't sure I could get it tight enough to feel secure it wouldn't just rattle off.
I used a utility knife and slit the rubber cover so it just slides over the heat shrink and covers up most of the terminal area that's exposed. Not perfect, but it helps a little bit!
I didn't do the negatves because they are in pretty good shape, the only reason I had to do the positives is because that pass-thru terminal was all busted apart.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,345
Likes: 802
From: Mi'kma'ki
thats what i should do to mine as well.ditch the wing nut and use a lock washer and nut.the wing nuts do keep loosening slowly over time.i find myself checking them every time i pop the hood.at the least,i should just try a lock washer under the wing nut.that would probably work too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,389
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From: Massachusetts
I have a lock washer on the drivers side, but there's just not enough room to get a lockwasher under the passenger side...so I just crank on it and they haven't loosed up yet!
I had this set on my first truck, then the engine went, so I transferred it over to this truck.
AND, to make this setup cooler...it was recommended to me by the guy at Carquest where I buy all my parts because he still supplies parts to a guy who has a fleet of E350 vans with 6.9's that run freight...and so we go back and forth with ideas when I'm in the store.
I had this set on my first truck, then the engine went, so I transferred it over to this truck.
AND, to make this setup cooler...it was recommended to me by the guy at Carquest where I buy all my parts because he still supplies parts to a guy who has a fleet of E350 vans with 6.9's that run freight...and so we go back and forth with ideas when I'm in the store.
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