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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:18 AM
  #1  
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Brake question

I have a question about brake replacement. I need to replace my rear rotors and pads. What effect would putting the drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads on the rear have with stock type rotors and pads on the front? Reason I ask is the fronts are fine and I don't really want to replace them yet. I pull a 9000+ lb TT and am not sure if it would cause a problem having different types of pads and rotors. I am probably a year or so away from replacing the fronts. Thanks in advance for your answers.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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First.... I know nothing technical about what you asked.

But if it was me, and based on common sense, I would do cheapie rears right now,
and upgrade the front and rear when you're ready to cut loose with the big rolls of pocket change.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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This doesn't directly answer your question, but for all $265 you can do all four corners at once. I can't imagine that costs a whole lot more than just doing the rears.

Performance Drilled Brake Rotors and Pads F+R 4WD 4X4 - eBay (item 290516433173 end time Jan-26-11 12:16:35 PST)

I did a lot of research on this outfit, and they have nothing but good reviews (they are also a site sponsor.) I also have a set of their rotors on my Excursion, and I've been very pleased.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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If you were doing aggressive driving - such as track or autocross - then you may experience unbalanced brakes. On a street vehicle - especially a truck, then you will not notice a difference. On track or on a vehicle without rear ABS then you could experience rear wheel lockup or enough of a frictional difference to throw off the balance of the car. On an ABS equipped truck you wont have any problems with overall driving dynamics.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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There is a minor risk of unbalancing the braking system.

In the good old days of adjustable proportioning valves, you can tweak that to fix the issue.

I am not sure how your can / would do it in electronics with ABS, etc. but it theoretically (doesn't mean practically) can be done.

Slightly too strong brakes in rear is a low risk --- they do very little of the total braking load unless you are trailering.

If you are, the trailer holds them down and prevents them from skidding if you loaded the tongue weight, etc. right.


Bigger question: why do you want drilled rotors?

That is to lighten it, lowering unsprung weight, and in the process, cut your thermal capacity. (braking capacity).

Slots are good, they let gases escape --- and in doing so, actually improve capacity.

The key to a good braking system is to carefully match the material in the rotors with the pads ---- as a combo ---- and ensure the rest of the system is in top shape.

That means new / quality reman calipers, fresh / clean brake fluid, etc.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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IMO the rear rotors are just fine. I have not heard anyone having issues with the rears. I would just replace the pad with whatever floats your boat. When its time to do the fronts then spend the $$ and get the cryo power slots and good pads.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BoulderLionX
This doesn't directly answer your question, but for all $265 you can do all four corners at once. I can't imagine that costs a whole lot more than just doing the rears.

Performance Drilled Brake Rotors and Pads F+R 4WD 4X4 - eBay (item 290516433173 end time Jan-26-11 12:16:35 PST)

I did a lot of research on this outfit, and they have nothing but good reviews (they are also a site sponsor.) I also have a set of their rotors on my Excursion, and I've been very pleased.
Thanks BLion, Actually the cheapest I found to do the rears, (rotors and pads) was just under $100. I looked at Summit racing and they had Power Stop kits with the drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads for $170 and the fronts were like $190+. I will probably go with your suggestion just wait on income tax refund! Thanks again, John
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by katiesdad7
IMO the rear rotors are just fine. I have not heard anyone having issues with the rears. I would just replace the pad with whatever floats your boat. When its time to do the fronts then spend the $$ and get the cryo power slots and good pads.
Agreed.

If the rotors are serviceable, just have them cut (turned) and replace the pads.

The rears provide something like 20% of your braking power, so OEM equivalent replacement rotors are the only thing that goes on the rear of my rigs, unless I find an upgraded rotor (like cryo'd Powerslots...Cryoslots? LOLOLOL) for an insane deal.

I do like to go with a premium pad though.

Stewart
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Agreed.

If the rotors are serviceable, just have them cut (turned) and replace the pads.

Stewart
Thats part of the problem. The rotors are not serviceable. Need to be replaced. They are to far gone.Thanks, guys.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Gotcha. Had the same problem with my F250 a few months back. I replaced the rears with a set of OEM comparable Centric premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads.

Stewart
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by shadows4
I have a question about brake replacement. I need to replace my rear rotors and pads. What effect would putting the drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads on the rear have with stock type rotors and pads on the front? Reason I ask is the fronts are fine and I don't really want to replace them yet. I pull a 9000+ lb TT and am not sure if it would cause a problem having different types of pads and rotors. I am probably a year or so away from replacing the fronts. Thanks in advance for your answers.
I have D/S rotors on the back and DBA rotors (Tire Rack) on the front . To complete the package I have Hawk LTS pads and Russell S/S brake lines all the way around. This a fairly expensive setup but the braking is awesome and I'm **** about braking.

To answer your question about unbalance braking I have had no problems with my setup. I just made a 500 mile round trip today pulling 12,000 lbs and the braking was great. I encountered the normal number of idiots that like to pull out in front 10.5 tons of X and trailer at 60 to 70 MPH but I had no problem whoaing up the X.

Also, I replaced the 4 drum electric brakes on my trailer with 4 Kodiak discs. If you pull your 9000+ TT a lot, upgrading the TT brakes to disc adds significant braking capacity to the whole rig.

Hope this helps!

DSMMH
 
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