FICM ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
It is all good. Wasnt worried about it. FWIW You have die hard ford ppl out there, that cant accept some of ford's stuff is inferior to aftermarket (FICM). Hell even us lowly consumers have to fix there stuff, otherwise this forum wouldnt exist.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,918
Likes: 3,636
Everybody's stuff breaks - that's why there are forums out there for every auto manufacturer ..........
These forums also help sort through the aftermarket stuff that breaks!
There is a long thread on "The Garage" about Swamps "hot" FICM if anyone is really interested in it - it is a 58V mod. Also, some "posters" there indicate that some of the standard FICM components are rated for only 50V, but they are replaced as part of the 58V upgrade. Personally I would wonder about the FICM longevity at the increased voltage, but who knows. Hopefully time will tell.
wldcat65 - find a computer that plays the video, it is pretty good.
These forums also help sort through the aftermarket stuff that breaks!
There is a long thread on "The Garage" about Swamps "hot" FICM if anyone is really interested in it - it is a 58V mod. Also, some "posters" there indicate that some of the standard FICM components are rated for only 50V, but they are replaced as part of the 58V upgrade. Personally I would wonder about the FICM longevity at the increased voltage, but who knows. Hopefully time will tell.
wldcat65 - find a computer that plays the video, it is pretty good.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
I agree, but I was waiting for a long scolding from someone. That vid is cool, and check out the FICM repair (I think Bismic was a big part of), Just printed it out for myself this morning.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: IN
Bismic, Thanks for the help. Yes I was able to view it once it got home. Looks like I am pulling it out tonight to see if I can fix it. The dealer wants $708 so I figured I would give it a try.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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My 06 developed a no start condition last week. Plugged in the heater and it starts but runs ruff and lots of black smoke for about 2 minutes. Then it runs fine for the rest of the day. Tested the FICM and got 49 volts with key on. Cranking was 22 volts. Decided to pull FICM and open it up. After getting through the anti-vibration crap and pulling the circuit board I found this
Lead "Slag" I'm guess it finally made it way to something that made a connection and was some how shorting the board. I inspected the circuit board closely with a magnifying glass and no joints were cracked. The "Slag was under the circuit board where it could have made a complete circuit with something! Reassembled and reinstalled. Voltage now is 49 cranking and 33 running. But it fired right up with no hesitation at all, but it was 65 degrees. I will be trying it in the morning but it's not expected to get below 55 degrees.
Lead "Slag" I'm guess it finally made it way to something that made a connection and was some how shorting the board. I inspected the circuit board closely with a magnifying glass and no joints were cracked. The "Slag was under the circuit board where it could have made a complete circuit with something! Reassembled and reinstalled. Voltage now is 49 cranking and 33 running. But it fired right up with no hesitation at all, but it was 65 degrees. I will be trying it in the morning but it's not expected to get below 55 degrees.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
My 06 developed a no start condition last week. Plugged in the heater and it starts but runs ruff and lots of black smoke for about 2 minutes. Then it runs fine for the rest of the day. Tested the FICM and got 49 volts with key on. Cranking was 22 volts. Decided to pull FICM and open it up. After getting through the anti-vibration crap and pulling the circuit board I found this
Lead "Slag" I'm guess it finally made it way to something that made a connection and was some how shorting the board. I inspected the circuit board closely with a magnifying glass and no joints were cracked. The "Slag was under the circuit board where it could have made a complete circuit with something! Reassembled and reinstalled. Voltage now is 49 cranking and 33 running. But it fired right up with no hesitation at all, but it was 65 degrees. I will be trying it in the morning but it's not expected to get below 55 degrees.
Lead "Slag" I'm guess it finally made it way to something that made a connection and was some how shorting the board. I inspected the circuit board closely with a magnifying glass and no joints were cracked. The "Slag was under the circuit board where it could have made a complete circuit with something! Reassembled and reinstalled. Voltage now is 49 cranking and 33 running. But it fired right up with no hesitation at all, but it was 65 degrees. I will be trying it in the morning but it's not expected to get below 55 degrees.
Excellent work!
Most likely the piece of lead is melted off a circuit somewhere and not just left over in manufacturing.
Warning:
My understanding is 33V running is no good.
Think you need a FICM repair job --- reflow solder.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 129
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From: IN
Ok. Pulled it apart tonight. Everything went good. Re-soldered all the points. Put it back on the truck and it is wrost then before. Now here is the kicker. I cliped a wire on the case and ran it to ground. Now I have 48 volts both KOEO and KOER. Checked the ground wire on the left fender. All looks good. Even took the wire harness and moved it around. Did not help. Should there be a ground wire running from the bracket to the motor somewhere?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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Will the FICM from my 05 work on my 06. The 06 has always been a dog the 05 runs like a rapped ape. Both are totally stock.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,918
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Yes, but you will get at least one code. Best bet IMO is get the FICM tuned at PHP.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
I have to pull some data to see what voltage sets the "FICM" over / under volt code.
Be rest assured that in my judgment, way over spec (45V) will ultimately damage the injectors if it doesn't cause a failure somewhere else --- like insulation and arcing.
Be rest assured that in my judgment, way over spec (45V) will ultimately damage the injectors if it doesn't cause a failure somewhere else --- like insulation and arcing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Nothing melted anywhere, I'm familiar with Electronics, Not an EE but I’ve did my fair share of electronic fixes. This was located under the smaller circuit board on the pass. Side, right below the cap, closest to the front. My unit had a spongy/foam like material under that circuit board and the board had pressed a pattern into that foam. Like I said I inspected every joint closely. It almost had to have come from the factory like that. One side of the “Slag” has a flat side with holes in it, just like “Slag” from over solder splatter. It was hot enough it had time to run.
Will the FICM from my 05 work on my 06. The 06 has always been a dog the 05 runs like a rapped ape. Both are totally stock.
Will the FICM from my 05 work on my 06. The 06 has always been a dog the 05 runs like a rapped ape. Both are totally stock.
As bismic says...a 2005 needs to be needs to be reprogrammed to work in a 2006
OK... if it came from factory like that with slag.. ugh.
I am going to take your word that nothing looks bad --- but my experience with operationally / electrically overheated joints is that the solder can,
a) whisker off (leaving no trace)
b) look OK to a naked eye (but be cracked once it heats up or make intermittent contact)
In any case, if you reflowed solder and it upped voltage, that is saying something isin't it?
If it still is not working properly ---
simple fix is to reprogram it --- bet that the programming is corrupted.
another simple fix --- substitute a known good one.
your call.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
So I would surmise that if the injectors were designed to run at a minimum 48volts, that you would see a improvement in perf, mileage, and injector life if ficm were to infact atleast stay above min spec of 48volts. It will run at 45 (and ford says its ok) but who says you are not losing all of the above?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Were'nt the injectors designed to run off 48 volts minumum? If so wouldnt 45volts still be insufficient? I keep searching the 58 volt ficm's and "ppl" are saying way better performance, faster starting, (I would assume that means the injectors are firing faster and more accurately) and better MPG. In my "search results" I have found nothing about cel codes nor injector probs/failures associated with the "hot" ficm!
So I would surmise that if the injectors were designed to run at a minimum 48volts, that you would see a improvement in perf, mileage, and injector life if ficm were to infact atleast stay above min spec of 48volts. It will run at 45 (and ford says its ok) but who says you are not losing all of the above?
So I would surmise that if the injectors were designed to run at a minimum 48volts, that you would see a improvement in perf, mileage, and injector life if ficm were to infact atleast stay above min spec of 48volts. It will run at 45 (and ford says its ok) but who says you are not losing all of the above?
Let's run the FICM and Injectors at 2 kilovolts!
We ought to get 50mpg and 800hp!
Injectors have a "mini" and "maxi" voltage. So do the wiring connecting them.
I am not going to get into a discussion about the 58V FICMs or the use of substandard parts in mods. Nor the flogging of the substandard parts as "better".
You can read my post on that in different places.
My view stands.
However, I now have a standard recommendation to not touch / buy eBay FICMs from people you don't know and whose parts history / mods cannot be ascertained.
I am only recommending Ford certified remans.
That ought to tell you everything you need to know.
Never cease to amaze me that people who wouldn't let their engine near anything else but top-of-the-line synthetic oil, name brand suspension parts, etc. will, when it comes to electronics / electrical stuff, live with kludges and 3rd rate junk that could have come from a electronics recycler in India.
On that note... I am about to put the necessity of OEM or better quality alternators issue in the "can lead the horse to water..." box.