SAS!!!anyboby have any tips for leafspring bolt removal??
SAS!!!anyboby have any tips for leafspring bolt removal??
im finally getting around to doing my SAS on my 250... the bolts at the back of the springs are seazed in the rubber, and i need to get the bolt out in one peice because i am not removing the springs from the axle so they cant be pressed out... any tips or tricks??
Man, I had the sme problem a while back.. them things are a real PIA to get out! I started out using a c-clamp and long socket. I placed the socket over the head of the bolt once I removed the nut. The socket has to be quite a bit bigger then the bolt head to allow the bolt head to slide into the socket. Using the clamp, I placed the clamp over the socket and threaded end of the bolt. By tightening the clamp it forced the bolt to move into the socket... Just kept at it till it was squeazed out!
I used a "suicide grinder" (angle grinder with the safety shield removed) to remove the bolts when I replaced my rear leafs. It's a lot easier and faster to just cut the bolt in between the shackle and the leaf. Simply pound out the bolt once it's cut.
Soak them with PB Blaster daily starting about 2 weeks before you plan of working on it, prefferably while you are still driving it daily.
The bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve inside the bushing.
So the PB Blaster penetrates as far as it can, the driving around puts lots of pressure on the bolt in many directions.
Between the two, eventually the bolt will come loose from the sleeve.
The bolt is rusted to the steel sleeve inside the bushing.
So the PB Blaster penetrates as far as it can, the driving around puts lots of pressure on the bolt in many directions.
Between the two, eventually the bolt will come loose from the sleeve.
K I finally got it.. With a combination of the clamp technique, a 1" impact gun, breaker bar, a sledge, punch and can of wd40.... And about 3 hours..
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