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cold start troubles

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:42 AM
  #1  
kingranch6.0blues's Avatar
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cold start troubles

2005 f250 6.0 having trouble starting in 30 degree weather. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they said it needs a FICM, two batteries, and a cord for the block heater. I have not had any trouble with it turning over and last year it started fine in the cold. The truck is still at the dealer. They are waiting on my decision on their price of $1840.00. Could this FICM be the problem? And if so do I still need the block heater?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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First, this should be in the 6.0 forum further down.

But the FICM (fuel injector control module) is often a cold weather starting problem especially with bad batteries. Are the batts original?

The FICM boosts voltage from around 12-14 that the batteries put out to about 48 for the injectors. If the batteries can not put out that voltage while running everything else then it has to work harder to boost the voltage and burns out. (The glow plugs eat up a ton of voltage.)

Mike
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 09:01 AM
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Thanx Mike, I'm new to this. I will move to the forum I belong in.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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Just Had the samething, replace just the batteries and see, mine were the originals and just lost there cold cranking amps, Costco has em for 75$ each. the plug you can buy on ebay for cheap and install yourself. FICM is a last resort and i probably fine. Do it yorself and save money. Mine Starts great now. Below freezing I plug it in, it was 3 degrees last night brrrrrrrr.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Check the entire charging system, alternator, batteries, etc.

Recommend OEM Exact PN alternator if you need one, and Motorcraft batteries (2nd from top CCA rating) for best life.

Check cables too.. and contacts.. very important.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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Mine starts fine in 20 *F weather - using 5W40 oil (I think it is VERY worthwhile).

Get the batteries and the FICM yourself and pass on the heater cord (or buy one from OReiley's for $18.

Swamps sells FICMS for around $500 to $600 programmed. Go ahead and get a PHP tune in the FICM also (I like mine).

Sounds like you can save $1000.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Check the entire charging system, alternator, batteries, etc.

Recommend OEM Exact PN alternator if you need one, and Motorcraft batteries (2nd from top CCA rating) for best life.

Check cables too.. and contacts.. very important.
I agree with everything except the Motorcraft batteries. All of our OE motorcraft batteries seem to fail early and therefore, I see no reason so replace them with the same thing. The best batteries I have found are Caterpillar Group 65s. They have more CCA than the Motorcraft batteries and look / feel like a much better made part.

And the lack of a block heater (cord) or oil type are not the cause(s) of your 30-degree starting problems. At that warm temp, the truck SHOULD light right off regardless of either one.


-mike
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by IHbase
I agree with everything except the Motorcraft batteries. All of our OE motorcraft batteries seem to fail early and therefore, I see no reason so replace them with the same thing. The best batteries I have found are Caterpillar Group 65s. They have more CCA than the Motorcraft batteries and look / feel like a much better made part.

Now that you mentioned it... I will check out the Cat batteries.

More CCAs are not necessarily a good thing if the way it is achieved is via a spongier (and lighter) lead plate.

Which Motorcrafts are you having trouble with? They come in several qualities.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Now that you mentioned it... I will check out the Cat batteries.

More CCAs are not necessarily a good thing if the way it is achieved is via a spongier (and lighter) lead plate.

Which Motorcrafts are you having trouble with? They come in several qualities.

gearloose1:

I suspect you know a lot more about battery construction than I do. But take a look at the Cat batteries. I was surprised and impressed. And they were not that expensive over-the-counter- which was a surprise for a Cat part.

I am interested in seeing what you think about them. Even the cases appear to be heavily constructed.

I understand that the Motorcraft Group 65 battery has different price points. But as my dealer pointed out, the only difference in the longer warranty battery was the price. The battery appeared exactly the same as the cheaper (shorter warranty) battery.

Regardless of the Motorcraft warranty game, the only Motorcraft batteries I have any experience with are the original equipment batteries. And with out exception- in every new Ford-IH truck we have run since 1996 (6) one of the pair has suffered a premature failure. I consider anything less than 5 years premature so long as the battery has been serviced and maintained.

Tractors, combines, sprayers, over-the-road trucks - all operate in the same or worse conditions and non seem to suffer the failure rate of our Ford pick-ups with Motorcraft batteries. I know the glow-plugs create a high draw, but I also know that Ford has engineered every possible cent of manufacturing cost out of these trucks. As proof, the NAPA 8465s with which we replace the OE batteries last at least 7 years in the older trucks. The service truck has a 10 year-old-set and it is too soon to tell in the newer trucks.

Last- Our manuals all state that both batteries should be changed at the same time. Because I am a sucker, I replace both and use the one remaining good battery as a forklift or compressor replacement battery. But at the Ford dealer; if one battery fails under warranty, Ford will only replace one battery. So Ford does not followed their own recommendation contained in the manual they provide with the trucks?


Interesting...

-mike
 
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