It had to be air in system. After I finally got the truck started it has been running great the rest of the day. I will let it sit all night and see how it does tomorrow. The original problem started after I drained the water seperator. Because of a bad o ring on the water seperator drain plug all this started.

 

For a dirty fuel filter... what do you think it would be (just like any other gas or diesel motor with a dirty fuel filter)?

1) Rough running/rough idling

2) Loss of power

3) Reduced MPG's

4) Hesitation when pushing on "go peddle"

5) Injector wear due to low fuel pressure (will cause injector failure over time)


Just change your 6.0L fuel filters with OEM/Racor made filters every 15,000 miles and you will be fine. Will-fit filters do not 100% fit as Racor patented the housing for their filters... so "will-fit filters" must change them slightly in order not to infringe on the Racor patent.... which means not 100% filtration or water seperation.

BTW... dirty oil, transmission and air filters will also cause simular issues to varying degrees... and don't forget the window washer fluid filter!!!

 

Hey thanks Beach, called Inernational on filters (thanks for that). Oil change was done few weeks ago and just wanna do fuel filters cause I don't believe dealership changed em prior to my purchase. So that way I have a schedule on changin em. Gonna try and knock em out this weekend. But quick question...do I take out water drain first on primary filter before takin out filter? But thanks again for giving me info on International

 

I have a question on this. I did not snap the main filter into the cap. Everything seemed to seat well, no leaks and running fine. Should I take it off and check the filter and reinstall it?

 

I have brought this up before.

The first time I changed the fuel filters on my truck, I did as told, snap the filter into the cap and screw it in. (yes I lubed the threads and o-ring) Went to screw it in, made it a few turns and it came to a dead stop.

It wasn't even close to being tight, I could still see the o-ring. Reefed on the wrench, and it "snapped" like I had just broken something. Kept tightening the cap and it finally went on.

Thought about what had happened for a couple hours, felt uncomfortable, went back out and removed it to have a look. When I looked at the inside of the filter, I see notch like things, almost like a gear teeth.

Gave some thought and wondered how the heck those notches or teeth matched up with what ever was in the pump exactly at the right moment as the cap spins the filter in. I then stuck the filter in first and spun the cap on.
And I did it that way the last time too.

I haven't had any problems.

 

Yes... open and drain the water drain valve first.

Here is why....

1) Water drain valve is the LOWEST part of the HFCM housing... and water sinks to the bottom (fuel floats on water)... so by opening the valve first, you drain out any sediment and water that MAY be present. If you remove the filter first, you have NOT drained out the water seperation part/function of your system (it sits lower than the filter does)... and you'll get more fuel spilling all down your arms and face!!!

2) By draining/opening the valve first, this releases the fuel and pressure that is in the HFCM housing/filter. Just let it drain... probably a pint or so. This will make for an easier job when you open up the main cap and remove the filter. You will unscrew the cap (then reach up and unsnap the filter from the cap).. then remove the cap and filter out of your way). It's a tight fit up there... but take your time.

If memory serves right, it is a 36mm socket you need to remove the large HFCM cap/cover. I use a long socket extension (very long with a swivel on the end to rear up there behind the cross member that is in the way on my truck.

Have paper towels to catch the diesel fuel that WILL drip/run out handy, drian pan for when you open the drain valve and wear old clothes.

Good luck... it's a pain the first time... after that, it will take you 15 minutes or less.

 

Chances are that as the cap seated... it engaged the filter and hopefully snapped into place on its own????

If your truck is running fine... probably leave well enough alone.

If your truck is NOT running right, then yes, open it up and check it out... make sure the o-ring is undamaged, re-lube, snap filter into housing and make sure your using an OEM filter... not just one from NAPA or an auto parts store.

Good luck,

 

Thanks everyone the trucks running fine so I'm going to let it ride till next time to change the filter