Thanks to am, bismic, beach, and zman!

 

Wondering if the previous owner put in a block heater for a gas Econoline van and not the diesel that you have???

I went and looked up (from an old thread the part number)... which is: 5C3Z-6B018-DA (confirm that this is for the 6.0L and/or will fit the Econoline 6.0L).

Take a look at the Ford dealer below and their parts website. mention you saw them on the web in the forums (they sponsor another site and give discounts to those that ask).

Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Type in the part number or search by name.. "engine block" or engine block heater"... the price that came up was $37.42/ea for the 5.4L gas version (what comes up when I type in your year , make and model) and $67.68/ea for the 6.0L diesel when I search by the part number.

FYI - I print off their parts and pricing and take to my local dealer and have them price match... heck, it's another Ford dealer selling Motorcraft parts... so it's an "apples to apples" comparison as far as I am concerned.

 

A million thanks to Mr Beach and all of you here.

What is most likely is they had one fail (high mileage) and just kludged one that fitted without regard to proper sizing or the right PN from Ford --- I am leaving it to spring (90 days) or summer (180 days) before I deal with it.


As you would expect --- most of my posts detail the grief I had fixing one thing after another.

At one point, I had the entire dash disassembled fixing busted bulbs, badly corroded / worn contacts, replacing simple things like instrument panel bulbs (but the base wore out... believe it or not).

Replaced every lock cylinder (4 out of 5 were rusted solid), cleaned every connector / wire loom I could reach..

Even the sway bar ends were worn out!


So as you can see... don't be too surprised as I keep finding surprises.

But you can't argue with the price I paid for it.

 

Thanks for all the info..... Figure I would post my thoughts when I started it this morning after being plugged in all night....

Outside temp was -4f the scan gauge showed ect at 120 and eot at 98...
Truck started as usual was surprised ... It turned over with more vigor but did not see any improvement in the time it took to fire up... Did notice that as soon as it fired up oil temp immediately dropped to 46 and coolant temp dropped to 89....

So I have to say the only difference I noticed is the way it turned over(quicker) ...which in itself would probably help my batteries and the heated oil I would assume circulate quicker thus reducing wear...

Now if anyone has any ideas on how to keep the truck from sounding like it's going to snap in half in the cold weather.... Driving down the road for the first 15 minutes the truck moans ,groans ,creaks and cracks

 

Also want to add batteries are new 1000cca and run a full bottle of power service (white bottle).... I know I'm running a lot more than I should for a 38 gal tank .... Is there any cons to running a full bottle every tank...thank you

 

Wait 2 or 3 min before you drive off.

Keep it below 1500 rpm at first, then 2000.

I wait for full warmup (gauge at 2nd notch) before I do anything.

Cetane boost will help... you have a combustion issue when it gets very cold.

 

One con is a lite wallet.

 

Gear loose ...Usually drive it slow for the first 3-4 miles....

Age mechanic.. I understand about the lite on the wallet... But does using extra help in anyway.... Thought it might help in cetane boosting and assure no gelling....

 

I use Stanadyne in my truck and regularly put a little extra in. Dont really have the cold issues in Phoenix. I doubt you are doing any damage, might be better.

 

I know there is a diminishing point for cetane boosting where it makes no difference.

Don't know about anti-gel etc..

I put in only when apparently needed... never just toss the bottle in.

Will dribble a bit more for extreme cold (-30 or more) as forecasted.

But then I am known to be cheap.

 

Nope.... up to a point... then it is just a waste of money.

I have a 44 gallon tank in my Excursion and double-treat at each fill-up with 32oz (year round)... if on a long highway trip in the non-winter months, I cut back to regular strength and use the normal amount.

I called PowerService 5 or 6 years ago (and have done so with other questions over the years)... and was told that double-dosing will improve the cetane benefits, anti-gel and injector cleaners... but beyond that the benefits and returns are less than the cost.

Single or double dose is good... more is just a waste of money.

I double-dose in the winter and never think twice about gelling up... even if I am using "winterized diesel" fuel or not... you just never know how well the station or refiner did when they mixed in their "anti-gel add-pack" for that station or route?

 

Thanks guys.. Appreciate the help..


Does anyone find it odd that cranking time was the same plugged in or not...

 

Not really --- heating is so little that not much reaches the cylinder heads, where combustion occurs.

It still takes a few extra cranks to build enough heat to light the fuel.

 

To leave your 6.0 running all night is a death sentence for these engines. Yes it warms up when idling, but at -40, you will never reach operating temp just idling. Instead you will soot up all the internals. Condensation in the intake will also become and issue. Take out your EGR valve after an hour of idling at -40 and you'll think you've got a blown EGR cooler. At those temps my truck shows 80 degrees after being plugged in for 4 hours. Start the truck, let it idle for a few minutes to get the juices flowing and start driving gently! Do not exceed 2000 RPM. Also, buy a winter front, or grill inserts. Personally got stainless inserts with removable intake plates. Yes your engine make more heat when running, but the cooling effect from everything from wind to the cab heater, to the cooling fan spinning at idle will cool it down almost as fast. Newer automatic climate control vehicles actually won't start the cab heat until the engine has reached a certain temp. Another crucial thing is 5W40 or lower synthetic oil. I have never used a battery minder, but a stick on oil pan heater might be another good idea. Wabasco heaters are nice, but relatively expensive. Unless you have a rather long drive, don't expect your engine to ever reach complete operating temp. Even after a 30 mile trip down the highway, mine will barely reach 190 degrees - at which point my thermostat opens. Believe me I know when it does, because my ECT drops instantly to around 170. A similar drop in temp can also be noted when coming off the highway and the RPM's drop. One last thing to note is that at those temps, your engine is probably the last of your worries. It does wonders to your power steering and transmission. The much vaunted Allisons were recalled up here a while back as they froze up somehow and blew all their fluid out and more than a few power steering lines and pumps have met their demise at -40.

 

Mohle... Could you tell me where you got your S.S. inserts and if it is much of a job to remove the winter covers. I'm in upstate NY and the temperature goes above and below 32 degrees quite a bit.

Thank you