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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #16  
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I just leave mine plugged in all night. Never had a problem with that. Be careful when using a timer as it can be set wrong and your heater won't be on when you expect/want it to be on.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 09:13 PM
  #17  
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Let me put things in perspective.

The cheapie $10 heaters you buy for home is normally 1,000 to 1,500 watts

A hair dryer commonly runs 1,500 watt.

The block heater is 600 watt.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #18  
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I left mine in all night. It was worth the warm air in a few miles in stead of 20 mins!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:36 AM
  #19  
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From: Inverness, Fl
Originally Posted by Speedjester
Was at home depot today and no heavy duty timer..... Will try loews next.. As for the battery tender I keep one in the truck all the time...and plug it in at least once a week overnight....
With the temps you are talking about. I would plug in the battery tender and Block Heater every night...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #20  
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Actually, the block heater is rated at 1,000 - 1,100 watts (not 600 as reported earlier).

I use an outdoor rated timer rated for this wattage or higher (even though I plug-in inside my garage).

I also use a 10 or 12 guage extension cord (can't remember) that is only 25' (the shortest length that will do the job is always better to reduce line loss).

I set my timer for 4 hours prior to when I need my truck... onger will not hurt anything except your pocket book... but 1,000 watts working all night every night can get expensive. Now if, if a volumteer firefighter or someone like that who never knows when you may need your truck... that is a different story... but if your like me and you leave roughly at the same time every morning.. than 4 hours is more than enough.

The block heater heats the coolant in the block and the oil that is in the high-pressure oil pump/valley (so the initial shot of oil will be warm... versus the oil in the pan which is not heated of course).

I do not use a battery tender and find them a waste of money if one's batteries are in good conditon and one's alternator is working as it should (just hook up a volt meter to the battery and alternator and check for output to ensure your batteries are charging).

Changing one's oil with an OEM oil filter every 5,000 miles helps... thee motors like fresh clean oil. The use of 5W-40 synthetic helps and is the main reason I use it year-round (I do not like to mix or switch oils)... so I use year-round. The 5W-40 synethic flos so much better and makes cold start-ups (eve when plugged in) quick and easy with less wear and tear on the motor and turbo bearings (which are lubed with oil as well).

I also installed the Marinco brand block heater electrical plug in (used on boats to charge batteries when docked) to make plugging in easier and cleaner (no plugs hanging down in front of my truck).

Need the follwing:

1) Marinco AC plug - Model #BB150

2) Length of power cord (extra heavy duty gauge for wattage requirements - 10 guage).

3) Female plug (connects into stock plug).

4) Roll of black electrical tape (some are made for cold weather - less brittle).

5) Drill & hole cutter - to drill/cut large circle for Marinco plug

6) Zip strips to secure new wire in place.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

I bought from:
www.boatfix.com

Here is page link for item (comes in black and white... you want black):
http://www.boatfix.com/shop3/store/v...dProduct=19633

God luck and have fun... it is a low cost mod that really works and is very practicle.









 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:00 AM
  #21  
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The use of a good name brand/quality anti-gel additive is also recommended... even if the fuel is "treated" by the station or advertised as "winterized".... you just never know.

The photo is not mine, but one I downloaded and saved of a 6.0L fuel filter (large HFCM filter) that was gelled up and posted on a site last year.

Anti-Gel can also make a difference in how well you fuel flows and stays flowing... starting and otherwise.

A picture is worth a 1,000 words... and changing our filters when it's cold is a real pain (or so I am told by those that try and cheap out and learn their lesson the hard way)!!!!!

 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Let me put things in perspective.

The cheapie $10 heaters you buy for home is normally 1,000 to 1,500 watts

A hair dryer commonly runs 1,500 watt.

The block heater is 600 watt.
According to my literature, the block heater is 1000 watts. Is the E-series different?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bismic
According to my literature, the block heater is 1000 watts. Is the E-series different?

Mark and Beach...

I am checking now... the heater on mine may have been replaced..--- it certainly does not have the factory cord --- so I stand corrected on your data.

Have to go measure current...


Having said that...

Say it is 1,100 watt/hr

That is 3,755 BTUs


A 6.0 idling consumes 1.5 gph of diesel.

No. 2 diesel is roughly 129,500 btu per gallon.

No. 1 is say, 10ish percent less but lets say 100,000 btu per gallon.

That is, 150,000 btu energy potential in burning the diesel.

Assuming a very low combustion efficiency (at idle) of 50%

That is an energy output of 75,000 btu from an idling 6.0

vs. the block heater @ 1,100w / hr = 3,755 btu.


Or, roughly, an idling 6.0 puts out far more heat --- that is why when it gets to -40 or below.. it is about the only way....

Or a Wabasco heater.



Update: Durn! I have an undersized block heater!

Another reason for my cold start problems last year!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #24  
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FWIW The research I did says around 10 amps 1150 watts. Bur that coulda been for the 7.3ltr!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #25  
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that is what I beleive to be fact also,, I needed it to figure my combined wattage when I tied my oil heater into my block heater
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Zmann
that is what I beleive to be fact also,, I needed it to figure my combined wattage when I tied my oil heater into my block heater

All of you are right... it is not so bad.. finding another kludge that the previous owner did putting in a replacement block heater that is 1/2 the size of the factory one.

Nothing like the annoyance I had when I found they used a NAPA oil filter with the built in cap and threw away the oil filter cap that came with the 6.0.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1

Mark and Beach...

Update: Durn! I have an undersized block heater!
Where did you buy it at?

What part number did you buy and what did you think you were getting? I was not aware that different wattage block heaters existed for the 6.0L motor... and that they are all the same (whether E series, F series or Excursion... a 6.0L is a 6.L (as far as a block heater is concerned).
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Beachbumcook
Where did you buy it at?

What part number did you buy and what did you think you were getting? I was not aware that different wattage block heaters existed for the 6.0L motor... and that they are all the same (whether E series, F series or Excursion... a 6.0L is a 6.L (as far as a block heater is concerned).

It wasn't me!

I am the 2nd owner that took over after 230,000 miles!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
Mark and Beach...

I am checking now... the heater on mine may have been replaced..--- it certainly does not have the factory cord --- so I stand corrected on your data.

Have to go measure current...


Having said that...

Say it is 1,100 watt/hr

That is 3,755 BTUs


A 6.0 idling consumes 1.5 gph of diesel.

No. 2 diesel is roughly 129,500 btu per gallon.

No. 1 is say, 10ish percent less but lets say 100,000 btu per gallon.

That is, 150,000 btu energy potential in burning the diesel.

Assuming a very low combustion efficiency (at idle) of 50%

That is an energy output of 75,000 btu from an idling 6.0

vs. the block heater @ 1,100w / hr = 3,755 btu.


Or, roughly, an idling 6.0 puts out far more heat --- that is why when it gets to -40 or below.. it is about the only way....

Or a Wabasco heater.



Update: Durn! I have an undersized block heater!

Another reason for my cold start problems last year!
Long term idling is not good for our motors (due to the EGR system) and a waste of diesel fuel... but then again, we have all done it.

I carry a 25' heavy duty (10 or 12 guage - can't remember) extension cord that I carry and use exclusivly for my block heater. This means I always have it with me when I travel or road trip... and it prevents my kids from using it and possibly cutting and nicking the wires inside. It is also bright yellow so I can see it in the snow and I "loop it over my driver's mirror" so I know to unplug it.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #30  
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If you want a replacement heater. Kats manufactures a lot of block heaters for most vehicles. ( I think they are the OEM for Ford , but don't quote me on that)( I emailed them to ask, haven't heard back yet)

Kats #30513 fits all 6.0---6.4. It's rated for 1000 watts

Forgot link to their application guide:

http://fivestarmanufacturing.com/get...s_2010_Catalog
 
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