Key-Start Ignition Help
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I haven't worked on a vehicle with an automatic transmission since around
1990 but I seem to remember reading here that you'll need to jump some wires
in that wiring harness if you disconnect that switch. The purpose of that switch
is to allow the starter to operate ONLY when transmission is in Park or
Neutral, this could be your entire problem....
1990 but I seem to remember reading here that you'll need to jump some wires
in that wiring harness if you disconnect that switch. The purpose of that switch
is to allow the starter to operate ONLY when transmission is in Park or
Neutral, this could be your entire problem....
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
Okay, so... Two wires, both red/blue coming from the wiring harness, two coming from the NSS.
I tried starting it with connecting each of the blue wires to each other. No go.
Then I moved to and just switched them. No go.
Then, the two from the wiring harness, I crossed. This is where something happened.
I crossed those two, went to start it, and the dash lights got dim.
(I WANT TO TELL YOU THAT BEFORE, THE LIGHTS DID NOT DIM, BUT THE RED LIGHT THAT SAYS BRAKE COMES ON)
However, when I crossed the two from the wiring harness, the lights did dim.
So, what should I leave it at?
MY NEXT QUESTION.
I want to put in a switch. How do I bypass the NSS switch and the ignition switch?
I want to turn the key to the on, push a button, and then the truck start.
How do I do that?
I tried starting it with connecting each of the blue wires to each other. No go.
Then I moved to and just switched them. No go.
Then, the two from the wiring harness, I crossed. This is where something happened.
I crossed those two, went to start it, and the dash lights got dim.
(I WANT TO TELL YOU THAT BEFORE, THE LIGHTS DID NOT DIM, BUT THE RED LIGHT THAT SAYS BRAKE COMES ON)
However, when I crossed the two from the wiring harness, the lights did dim.
So, what should I leave it at?
MY NEXT QUESTION.
I want to put in a switch. How do I bypass the NSS switch and the ignition switch?
I want to turn the key to the on, push a button, and then the truck start.
How do I do that?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
connecting each of the blue wires to each other. No go. I'm assuming you're talking the red/blue-stripe wires here?
Then I moved to and just switched them. Not sure what you're saying there, but.... No go.
Then, the two from the wiring harness, I crossed. This is where something happened.
I crossed those two, went to start it, and the dash lights got dim. When the
wires are this way and the dash lights dim, put your voltmeter on the
red/blue-stripe terminal that connects to the solenoid, there should be full
battery voltage there but I'll bet you're not getting that.
(I WANT TO TELL YOU THAT BEFORE, THE LIGHTS DID NOT DIM, BUT THE RED LIGHT THAT SAYS BRAKE COMES ON)
However, when I crossed the two from the wiring harness, the lights did dim.
So, what should I leave it at?
MY NEXT QUESTION.
I want to put in a switch. How do I bypass the NSS switch and the ignition switch?
I want to turn the key to the on, push a button, and then the truck start.
How do I do that?
Then I moved to and just switched them. Not sure what you're saying there, but.... No go.
Then, the two from the wiring harness, I crossed. This is where something happened.
I crossed those two, went to start it, and the dash lights got dim. When the
wires are this way and the dash lights dim, put your voltmeter on the
red/blue-stripe terminal that connects to the solenoid, there should be full
battery voltage there but I'll bet you're not getting that.
(I WANT TO TELL YOU THAT BEFORE, THE LIGHTS DID NOT DIM, BUT THE RED LIGHT THAT SAYS BRAKE COMES ON)
However, when I crossed the two from the wiring harness, the lights did dim.
So, what should I leave it at?
MY NEXT QUESTION.
I want to put in a switch. How do I bypass the NSS switch and the ignition switch?
I want to turn the key to the on, push a button, and then the truck start.
How do I do that?
The factory wiring goes something like so,pretend the dashed line ---- is the
red/blue-stripe wire:
battery----------ignition switch------------NSS-----------solenoid
Both the ignition switch and the NSS can make or break that connection from
the battery to the solenoid. The NSS will connect the two wires when the
tranny is in Park or Neutral, the ignition switch will connect them when the
key is turned to START.
To install a button in the cab:
- Run a wire from the battery + to the cab-mounted button.
- Then, from the other terminal on the button to the solenoid where the
red/blue-stripe wire is presently connected (disconnect that factory wire to
do this, it will be unused at that point).
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
You say to run a wire from a battery...
Where would I hook up this wire? Where would it hook up to the battery.
Would this button cancel out the NSS and allow the truck to start?
Also, would I have to get a fuse or something for it? Or no?
Where would I hook up this wire? Where would it hook up to the battery.
Would this button cancel out the NSS and allow the truck to start?
Also, would I have to get a fuse or something for it? Or no?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Where would I hook up this wire? Where would it hook up to the battery.
I'm sure if I were to do it, I'd make it more complicated than it needs to be
and tap into the fuse box someplace, probably using soldered & shrink-tubed
connections.
For what you're doing, an eyelet on a wire (16 ga should work) and connect
the eyelet onto the starter solenoid where the fat + cable connects.
Just like this:
I hope you read oddshot's thing on wiring... Crimp-type eyelet connectors
would probably be OK but I would solder everything just cuz that's how I am.
Crimped connections are probably eventually going to corrode but I'd think
it'd last a good 20 or so years (depending, of course, on how much moisture
makes its way into there) until it got bad enough to where adequate
electricity would no longer flow.
Would this button cancel out the NSS and allow the truck to start?
This would replicate exactly what you're doing while under the hood to start
it, it merely makes for a conveniently-located connection point (in the cab).
Yes, the NSS is out of the picture.
Also, would I have to get a fuse or something for it? Or no?
A fuse is never a bad idea, you could install an inline fuse holder between the
battery and the buttin, I'd guess a 5A fuse would be sufficient. The purpose
of the fuse is to protect the wiring and I'd think not having a fuse would be
OK seeing as how that button is a momentary-contact device, you'd have to
push & hold it while there was a short circuit in the wire or solenoid for the
wire to heat up and start melting (and you'd smell it) I kinda doubt you'd ever
run into that kind of situation. Even if it did happen, the wire is replaced
easily enough.
You should be able to get everything you need at Radio Shack.
fweuifh bgqe
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I suggest fusing it in case the wire gets pinched somewhere and shorts to ground. If you were to get a test light or voltmeter you could probably figure out the problem and fix it with less effort than rigging up a switch. You know you have power to the ignition switch, if you get power to the NSS on one of the red/blue wires you know the ign switch is ok
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
Eh, i'm just gonna throw in a toggle switch. Simple, takes 5 minutes to install.
So, thanks to you all..
New Radio Installation
All working lights
Start from inside cab
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
So, YAY!
So, thanks to you all..
New Radio Installation
All working lights
Start from inside cab
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
etc.
So, YAY!
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
bashby is probably right, you probably should put a fuse on it, put it real close to where the
wire connects to the battery, that will protect the full length of that wire from the fuse holder
to the button back to the solenoid. The chances are really small that it'd ever get shorted to
ground but, if it did, it will likely turn red hot and burn up and could start a fire.
If you find the time, I also agree with him that it would be better to find and fix the problem
with the factory wiring. Given what you described (the mess a PO had made of the wiring)
I'd bet the problem won't be hidden, it's probably located in some hack the other guy did.
wire connects to the battery, that will protect the full length of that wire from the fuse holder
to the button back to the solenoid. The chances are really small that it'd ever get shorted to
ground but, if it did, it will likely turn red hot and burn up and could start a fire.
If you find the time, I also agree with him that it would be better to find and fix the problem
with the factory wiring. Given what you described (the mess a PO had made of the wiring)
I'd bet the problem won't be hidden, it's probably located in some hack the other guy did.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
Well, the button wiring is going to be totally separate from the rest of the wiring.
The button, fuse and all is going to cost me around $10, so... for now, I will use that until I can figure out the problem with the other thing.
But thanks guys, really. I've been driving that truck for over a year, and now, I have lights, ignition from inside the cab... You've helped me fix all my mechanical problems through the months and everything..
Merry Christmas everyone! And let's have a hell of a new year, eh?
The button, fuse and all is going to cost me around $10, so... for now, I will use that until I can figure out the problem with the other thing.
But thanks guys, really. I've been driving that truck for over a year, and now, I have lights, ignition from inside the cab... You've helped me fix all my mechanical problems through the months and everything..
Merry Christmas everyone! And let's have a hell of a new year, eh?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I'd use a 20 or 25a fuse, if you use an atm it would match your factory fuses so sprares would be interchangeable. You could also tap into a fused wire under the dash for power and save some wire and a fuse holder.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
you've recently described.... You could use the green/yellow wire as your power
source, it's already fused and is likely already easily available to you inside the
cab.
18 ga wire would probably also work, i would use the same gauge as what's
already there (if you're gonna tap into existing wiring).
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
I think I am just going to run 16 gauge wire from the battery to the button, with a 25 amp ATM in-line fuse. Then, from the button, run the other wire to the post on the solenoid.
Simple. Easy. No hacking into any other wires.
That's what i'll do.
Simple. Easy. No hacking into any other wires.
That's what i'll do.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
25A is WAY more than you need to activate a solenoid.
It's also more than 16Ga wire is rated to carry.
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies
It's also more than 16Ga wire is rated to carry.
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies