Someone Please Help!
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 79
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From: Indianapolis, IN
When i took the starter off to have it tested, i used a wrench to push the flywheel to make sure motor wasn't locked up. The flywheel turned just fine (same as when i installed the clutch). When I changed the clutch, I turned the input shaft of the tranny and it also turned just fine.
I pulled the plug off the ignition switch to look for any fried connections. It was clean. I was surprised at the excellent condition of everything under the dash. With the exception of some aftermarket stereo wires being ran (which I removed all of them in order to trace the wires going into the engine bay), everything is nicely wrapped with no breaks in the tape. I guess that doesn't mean that the ignition switch isn't bad, just in my experience when an ignition switch goes bad the connector the wires out of the connector, the actual plug, or the fusible link wire gets fried
I'm going to take the alternator off and have it tested tomorrow. Then push start it. But if the problem is somewhere else in the electrical system, dont i run the risk of frying the whole system?
I pulled the plug off the ignition switch to look for any fried connections. It was clean. I was surprised at the excellent condition of everything under the dash. With the exception of some aftermarket stereo wires being ran (which I removed all of them in order to trace the wires going into the engine bay), everything is nicely wrapped with no breaks in the tape. I guess that doesn't mean that the ignition switch isn't bad, just in my experience when an ignition switch goes bad the connector the wires out of the connector, the actual plug, or the fusible link wire gets fried
I'm going to take the alternator off and have it tested tomorrow. Then push start it. But if the problem is somewhere else in the electrical system, dont i run the risk of frying the whole system?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 79
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I tried that after I had my starter tested, and the starter did not engage. So i replaced the ground wire, cuz it was in pretty bad shape (the isulation was falling off and the ends of the wire were black). not to mention it was 8 gauge when everything is is 2 gauge.
Havent tried that again though, but I probably will tomorrow when I take alternator to be tested.
Havent tried that again though, but I probably will tomorrow when I take alternator to be tested.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 108
From: Northshore, MN
OK, so the next question is, did you hear the starter try to engage when bypassing the solenoid? (kinda like a whacking noise, when the starter drive smacks the flywheel) If not, then I'd look at the battery and negative cable. Then I would swap the starter cable, or whatever cable you used to bypass the solenoid, next. If those end up being good, then your starter is likely bad....end of problem #1, the starting system. (except the solenoid, but more on that later)
Once, this has been isolated, you can then move onto the next problem, that is the charging system, your alternator, and fusible links. Once you have the starter engaging, you can then move onto rehooking up the solenoid between the starter and battery, this will reveal a bad ignition switch in the start position, any wire inbetween, and the solenoid itself.
FWIW, the clutch not engaging is unrelated.
Merely having the alternator test may not indicate what actually CAUSED the problem in the first place. You could put a new alternator in again, and still "pop" from a short. You want to eliminate the short first.
Once, this has been isolated, you can then move onto the next problem, that is the charging system, your alternator, and fusible links. Once you have the starter engaging, you can then move onto rehooking up the solenoid between the starter and battery, this will reveal a bad ignition switch in the start position, any wire inbetween, and the solenoid itself.
FWIW, the clutch not engaging is unrelated.
Merely having the alternator test may not indicate what actually CAUSED the problem in the first place. You could put a new alternator in again, and still "pop" from a short. You want to eliminate the short first.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 79
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From: Indianapolis, IN
no, the only thing that happened was a bunch of sparks came off the positive terminal. I'll try it again tomorrow since I have changed the negative cable on the battery.
Thanks for some info on the correct troubleshooting process...ive been doing it backwards....from the battery forward!
Thanks for some info on the correct troubleshooting process...ive been doing it backwards....from the battery forward!
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 79
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From: Indianapolis, IN
alright guys, so here is an update. Finally got around to working to the truck on Wednesday. I put new battery and starter cables in. Still had nothing. Took the starter out, bolted it to ground and put power cable directly to battery. It turned. So i got down under the truck and sanded down the place where the ground wire bolted on. Got in, it started right up! So that problem is fixed!
However, I now have 2 new issues!
When I start it, the starter stays engaged for a few seconds after the motor is actually started, and it makes a horrible screeching noise. Bad solenoid? Bad ignition switch? I dont want to tear up the flywheel....not after I have already had it all apart to change the clutch!
Second issue is the clutch is way too sensitive. It works just fine, but when I let out, it engages the transmission entirely too fast. I have to rev the motor up in order to keep it from stalling out....Can I adjust the rods the fork to alleviate this? or is it just because the clutch is brand new and needs broken in a bit?
Once again, thanks for all the help guys. This is my first time working on a ford...this site has saved my butt!
However, I now have 2 new issues!
When I start it, the starter stays engaged for a few seconds after the motor is actually started, and it makes a horrible screeching noise. Bad solenoid? Bad ignition switch? I dont want to tear up the flywheel....not after I have already had it all apart to change the clutch!
Second issue is the clutch is way too sensitive. It works just fine, but when I let out, it engages the transmission entirely too fast. I have to rev the motor up in order to keep it from stalling out....Can I adjust the rods the fork to alleviate this? or is it just because the clutch is brand new and needs broken in a bit?
Once again, thanks for all the help guys. This is my first time working on a ford...this site has saved my butt!
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 108
From: Northshore, MN
There's adjustments on the clutch linkage that I would try first. Secondly, it sounds like the solenoid could be sticking.
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