Zf6 fluid change
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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Zf6 fluid change
Hi guys
I just need a quick sanity check and some advice.
First off, the drain plug is on the very bottom of the transmission and the fill plug is next to the pto cover, right?
Second I can't get either plug to budge. Anyone have some advice on breaking these things loose?
Thanks
I just need a quick sanity check and some advice.
First off, the drain plug is on the very bottom of the transmission and the fill plug is next to the pto cover, right?
Second I can't get either plug to budge. Anyone have some advice on breaking these things loose?
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
If those plugs are installed with no leak thread lock then a some heat like Viss suggested will do the trick. A heat gun on high works well and no open flame to worry about like when using a propane torch.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Gasiola soft-set would be good for this aplication. Soft-set would make removal easier for next time.
I am sure there will be some other good ideas.
"Gasiola Soft-Set is a smooth, non-toxic, odor-free paste that forms a non-hardening, positive seal on pipe threads, joints fittings, hoses, nozzles, LPG cylinders, pump assemblies, oil burners, hydraulics, etc. Sealed joints are easily taken apart without damaging threads. Federal Process Soft-Set Sealants can be used on brass copper, stainless steel, aluminum, black pipe, tin, galvanized, ABS, CPVC, PVC plastics, nylon and more. Excellent resistance to gasoline, petroleum solvents, kerosene, diesel oil, propane, butane, LPG, acids, compressed air (not oxygen) and much more. Non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-radioactive, non-explosive. Contains no lead. UL-Approved."
I am sure there will be some other good ideas.
"Gasiola Soft-Set is a smooth, non-toxic, odor-free paste that forms a non-hardening, positive seal on pipe threads, joints fittings, hoses, nozzles, LPG cylinders, pump assemblies, oil burners, hydraulics, etc. Sealed joints are easily taken apart without damaging threads. Federal Process Soft-Set Sealants can be used on brass copper, stainless steel, aluminum, black pipe, tin, galvanized, ABS, CPVC, PVC plastics, nylon and more. Excellent resistance to gasoline, petroleum solvents, kerosene, diesel oil, propane, butane, LPG, acids, compressed air (not oxygen) and much more. Non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-radioactive, non-explosive. Contains no lead. UL-Approved."
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 339
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
what fluid are you putting in? I put in reg valvoline merc v spec atf and the thing shifts like **** now. I need to swap fluids and was thinking about going with ATS 295 spec fluid like they run in the dmax's with zf6s.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
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From: Northern Idaho
Use Syncro Mesh. You can get it from Napa. It's expensive but it's nice! It made my trannie much more quiet and smooth. I know because I need new sycros and they are noisy when they are worn.
It's about $15 a quart.
It's about $15 a quart.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 2
From: Az
Bob has it if you can't find any
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Look under shop supplies.
Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Look under shop supplies.
Last edited by SGnAZ; Dec 21, 2010 at 04:28 AM. Reason: add text
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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I got a can of transmission flush from NAPA for the lines to the cooler. Should that be enough?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Personally I wouldn't use anything to flush the cooler, nor would I use anything on the plug other than the oring that's there. I don't think a little old fluid in the cooler is a big deal, it's kinda like the old debate over draining the HPOP and oil rails during an oil change... Change the fluid every 50,000 mi and everything will be all good. If you must flush out the old fluid try some compressed air at a super low pressure. Remember if you do this you're going to fill it to the fill hole, run and drive it I guess to get the pump pumping fluid through the cooler, then re-fill back to the fill plug.
If the oring on the drain plug looks bad, see if the fill plug one looks better. They interchange. Use a breaker bar and eye protection to get the plugs out. They get tight over time. I like to pull the fill plug before the drain. That way if the fill plug just will not come out you haven't already drained it.
If the oring on the drain plug looks bad, see if the fill plug one looks better. They interchange. Use a breaker bar and eye protection to get the plugs out. They get tight over time. I like to pull the fill plug before the drain. That way if the fill plug just will not come out you haven't already drained it.