Not sure if anyone follows this thread anymore, but thank you for all that have contributed. I have referenced it many times in trying to figure out the wiring on a truck i bought with a zf6 conversion.
The previous owner did nothing with the wiring except tie strap the shift selector switch to the frame and put it in park. For this I did a continuity test to find which 2 wires need to be connected when it's in park, then soldered them together. Then placed the switch in neutral( I'll clean up the wires later) This gave my ESOF to function properly and now go into 4low, which it previously couldn't .
Reverse lights, similar procedure. test to see which wires connect when it's in reverse, then buy a pigtail from Oreilys , solder it to those 2 and connect to the reverse switch. Now i have reverse lights and reverse sensors.
Another issue i had was the computer wasn't flashed so the engine stumbles around 1500 to 2k rpm, sometimes badly. Since I have read flashing the computer sometimes works and sometimes doesn't i'm hesitant to send my computer away for a while to get it flashed. My solution so far has been to fool the truck into thinking the auto trans is still there. I did this by referencing https://atsgmembers.com/memarea/bull...G/4R100_QR.pdf Looking at the table that gives the resistance of the solonoids and which wires connect to them, I added a variable resister(or potentiometer) to the wires for the trans temp. This way i could test it, and set my trans temp. Then connected 5 watt 30 ohm resisters to the wires that go to the solenoids. (wires 1, to 2,3,4,and 5) . Then added a 5 watt 5 ohm resister to the EPS solonoid wires(11,12). No more transmission trouble codes, and no more stumble.
I'm still not sure how i will complete the wiring permanently, either flashing or replacing the computer, but this took care of the most irritating stumble.

 

@kalikikopa , welcome to the FTE!

Perhaps you may find the answers you seek in one of the links below that I have taken from the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder.

Transmission Swaps: Auto to Manual and vice versa

• ZF6 Swap into 2003 Super Duty by ESwift on FTE
• ZF6 Swap into a 1999.5 F-250 by Big_Stroker on Powerstroke.org
• ZF6 Swap into a 2001 F-250 by Mud-Nut on Powerstroke.org (Photos lost so no more pics)
• ZF6 Swap into an Excursion by Brodude07 on FTE
• ZF6 Swap into an Excursion by oharal on FTE
• ZF6 Swap into an Excursion by gavan on Pirate4x4
• ZF6 Swap into an Excursion by DozerDan on P4x4, who 9 yrs later swapped back to 4R100

If not, perhaps our resident 4R100 and ZF6 (both ways) swap expert @ESwift may have some advice for you.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

I would be interested in seeing which variable resister you used for the trans temp wires and how you did that.

As far as the stumble because pcm still thinks it has an auto, the best and easiest way is just to add a hydra with tunes for the same year with a manual transmission.

I am trying to remember if I left the shift selector switch is still on the 2003 truck I swapped or not, but I would like to check it next time I service it for my friend, as he said his electronic 4x4 low didnt engage, just 4x4 high (I told him with the zf6 he would prolly never need low, and to be glad because at least he had 4x4 high now, as none worked for him before because the actuator plug was loose and he never looked at it…)
It would be nice to at least get both H and L working for him sometime.

 

I think I used the 20-50k variable resistor from this pack On the truck harness I connected it on the wires 6 and 7. on the resistor i connected it on the middle tab and the right side tab(looking from the **** down). Currently all my wires are just stuffed up on the crossmember. I'll have to clean it all up now that I have found it works. I have an issue with my idle dropping too low and sometimes dying when i pushed the clutch to slow down. I checked and my trans temp fluid reading was almost 400 degrees so i turned it back down to 170 and that helped. Maybe coincidence. I may just replace it with a 20k resister making it somewhere in the 100 degree range(that and i have an extra).

 

What wires do I need to hook up for the esof to work

 

Sorry it's been awhile so i can't find all the diagrams I had linked for this. Here is the wring from this write up https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...te-up.1391523/

The range selector connector in my truck had the pins numbered. To make the truck think it’s in park I had to connect pin number 10 (blue with orange stripe) and 12 (tan with a red stripe).
For reverse I had to connect into pin number 9 (green with a pink stripe) and number 11 (black with a pink stripe).
Cut the wire loom back a few inches so you can see non light damaged colors.
I did this, but kept the selector switch in place and put it in neutral. When i did that the truck started and the ESOF now worked. I hope this helped.