Ok, so I know the cold start questions are getting old, and ive searched around for awhile and have never heard of anything like this happening so i figured id start my own thread.

Truck is a 2000 f250, has 15w40 in it, has been running fine, but starting has taken a bit longer than normal this winter. Batteries are only a year old, had them checked earlier this year and they were good.

So heres the issue. Went to start her up this afternoon, its about 35 degrees, was running well yesterday without any problems. Cranked, but wouldnt start today. Has additive in the tank, and winter blend fuel. Was not plugged in last night, so after cranking it a few times, without it starting, I got my buddy to jump me. Still no start, but I did have smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Thats the issue I dont get, how is it not starting, but its smoking out of the pipe, and it kept smoking after. Not a ton of smoke, and it was grey not blue.

My question is, what could be my possible issues, and where do I start? I plugged it in and am going to try it here in an hour or 2. Im supposed to drive from washington to ca tomorrow, and really need to get this figured out.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

Maybe your injectors getting tired? Let us know how it starts after being plugged in for a bit. If it starts easier, pull the valve covers during a cold start and see how many are spitting oil.

Engine oil is full, right? Why did you have batteries that are less than a year old tested earlier this year? Was there some other symptom that showed up before? Did you try starting without the chip?

 

Were you waiting for the glow plugs to warm things up a bit? Smoke out the tail pipe is a good sign, that means the PCM is telling the injectors to fire.

 

i would check the GPR just make should it is powering the glow plugs.

 

Im hoping that it starts up after being plugged in. I had the batteries tested earlier this year because this same thing happened. I got it started, but it took awhile, so I took it down and had them tested just to make sure they werent going bad.

Have not tried starting without the chip, but again, it doesnt make sense for it to run fine and start fine last night, and then today just up and stop working. The smoke out of the exhaust is the part that has me worried. I checked in the exhaust and it did not seem that there was any oil in it....Hopefully it starts up here in a bit and i'll run it around town to make sure there isnt any other issues. Im planning on changing the oil to full synthetic as soon as I can, most likely next week when im back home in ca and its a bit warmer and I have somewhere I can do it.

 

and yes I let the GP's cycle. No multimeter so I cant test the GPR, but again i dont understand how it would be alright yesterday, and now nothing today. If it starts aafter being plugged in, then I guess that would point to the GP's or GPR.

 

glow plug relay is probably bad. that is how my truck acted when it was bad. put a new gpr and started right up.

 

good. Id rather have the GPR not working than a bigger problem. Where can I buy the Stancor? Figured if im gonna have to replace it might as well upgrade it.

 

Well, you have better minds than mine already responding but I'm a glutton for punishment so how about...

White smoke on start means the system is too cold to combust the fuel. Working fine til it got colder, also GP stuff. Checking the GP and GPR on your truck will confirm they work well. Not starting when alternative power supply seems to support your truck can't get the temps up enough to start the combustion so back to the GP or GPR. So, again not the battery but not enough heat to get it started.

WTS light? How long are you waiting before turning it over? Chris has you looking at the injectors and oil, also important.

TOOOO SLOWWW TYPING>>>>got it all already

 

gave it a minute or 2 before trying to crank it. Ive been waiting at least 20-30 seconds after the WTS light goes out lately. I have a whole list of stuff to do when I get the chance, but right now I have to get back home to CA before funding will be there to do everything I want to do. First on that list is switching over to full synthetic oil so hopefully help with the starts, then its replacing the GPR and GP's just so I know its been done and taken care of.

 

Stancor Relay mod from Guzzler- Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page

"The Stancor Contactor (I'll call it a GPR) can be found at numerous sites on the internet but I ordered mine from Mouser Electronics (part number 802-586-902) for $44.74 (Nov-2007)."

 

thanks. I wasnt sure if it was something I could get at napa or similar place

 

Another thought, you keep mentioning CA. Is this a CA emissions vehicle? If so, you should have a GPCM vice a GPR and the mod may not work for you because it relies on the GPR vice GPCM. You should check that out first. There is a pic somewhere on this site with the difference, but basically the GPR looks like a second AIH relay. The GPCM is a rectangular box with "fins" on it.

 

if it is the GPR just jump it with a skreew driver (conect the big studs)to get the GP hot if it starts that could be the problem.

 

35 seems awful warm for a truck not to start due to a GP issue. Especially with repeated attempts and gray smoke. I'd buy it if it were in the 20's and was pouring out white smoke, but 35 and gray smoke I'm not so sure.

Hopefully I'm wrong on this and you can just lay a screwdriver across the GPR.