Strange problem
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: ellensburg
its not a ca emissions truck, thank god. I'll try the screw driver idea and see if that helps if it happens again. Im also thinking that my GP's might be bad, probably not all of them, but some of them.
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Posting Guru
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From: ellensburg
35 seems awful warm for a truck not to start due to a GP issue. Especially with repeated attempts and gray smoke. I'd buy it if it were in the 20's and was pouring out white smoke, but 35 and gray smoke I'm not so sure.
Hopefully I'm wrong on this and you can just lay a screwdriver across the GPR.
Hopefully I'm wrong on this and you can just lay a screwdriver across the GPR.
Oh and there was quite a bit of smoke. When I say grey I mean it wasnt dark, and it wasnt white. It was kinda in between. but there was enough smoke that it continued to smoke out of the tailpipe for about 2 or 3 mins after i stopped trying to crank it.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 407
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From: Mobile, AL
Chris- and that is why you're thinking oil? The cool temps are enough to impact oil injection but not enough to cool the air for the GPs to work?
I thought he wrote white smoke, but grey is what he posted. So, doesn't that indicate partially burnt fuel due to insufficient air, over-fueling or the truck is chipped/incorrect tunes. If it worked one day and not the next there should be an environmental change, which the PO listed as temps.
Oil could be in there as a cause for partial burn, right?
I thought he wrote white smoke, but grey is what he posted. So, doesn't that indicate partially burnt fuel due to insufficient air, over-fueling or the truck is chipped/incorrect tunes. If it worked one day and not the next there should be an environmental change, which the PO listed as temps.
Oil could be in there as a cause for partial burn, right?
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Posting Guru
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From: ellensburg
oil is getting close to time for a change. Almost at 3000. I need to check the level, but last time i checked it it was fine. Hopefully it'll start right up as soon as I go try to start it
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
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From: South Carolina
My truck typically starts on the first crank above 32° and as temps get colder it requires multiple cranks to start. At 13° one morning this week it took 6 or 7 cranks. It has never failed to start.
I limit my cranks to a few seconds each.
I limit my cranks to a few seconds each.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Edit: and I run my 15w-40 oil to 5,000 miles every time so it's not too old at 3k. Just make sure it's topped off.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
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From: Kansas City, MO
You might try installing a GPR LED indicator light, to tell you when your GPR is ACTUALLY getting power from one side of the relay to the other. I put one on my truck, and it was invaluable when i started experiencing the same issues you have- cold temps, wouldn't start, even though the WTS light was on. Until i had a chance to get a new GPR, I would just jump the relay with a piece of battery cable to get it started. The LED saves a lot of guessing.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Van Alstyne, TX
Another thing to consider is your starter. If it is dragging, it may not be turning the engine over fast enough to start it when it is cold. If the engine is warm, then it does not have to spin as fast to get the diesel hot enough to ignite. I had a problem with a starter for a while. Since the starter gradually got worse, I did not realize until it went out completely and I replaced it exactly how much slower it was turning the engine until I got the new one installed
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 775
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From: Williamston, MI
You should be able to watch your volt gauge to see if the GPs are drawing power. Turn the key on and watch. When GPs turn off the voltage rises. This is how I knew a new Napa GPR was hit and miss. Also, I have to run syn oil in mine when it's cold out. I get terrible romps and hard start with dino oil.
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