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Spontaneous Electrical Shutdown

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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #1  
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Cool Spontaneous Electrical Shutdown

A few weeks ago started having electrical spikes while driving (i.e. everything getting bright then cuts out flashing charge indicator when it happens, voltmeter pegging then dropping out). Thinking I have a voltage regulator on the fritz. Need some other confirming factors before I drop $100+ on a new alt-reg.

Also when I shut it down the power to everything intermittently shuts off and doesn't come back on until I open and slam the passenger door... Weird or what? Any ideas to correlate the two issues?

Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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sounds like it might be a grounding issue, voltage builds up enough pressure to finally close the circuit then everything gets a jolt. opening and closing the door grounds to ground. Might help if we knew what version of bronco you're talking about.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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It started while driving. Are you thinking its the ground cable from the batt terminal?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Sounds like a good place to start.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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OK. Took a while... Ground line is secure to firewall post and positive terminal is secure all the way to ignition.

Symptoms in more detail:
any medium to large bump seems to short / cause a spike in power causing all instumentation dials to pin to max (volt, speed, batt light etc) and all lights to surge to bright.

when the ignition is turned to off the power almost always cuts out completely to all accessories and systems in the cabin. With shutting the pass door a few times hard and turning the ignition on and moving the shifter from D1 to P a few times it usually comes back online.

The power outage is a complete shut off because my deck goes back to default settings and loses all presets.

Power at the battery is strong but if left off for more than 12 hours it usually drains it enough to be too low to turn over. Suspect a short / drain on it somehow.

Where is the next connection point that could be loose on the positive side prior to reaching the cabin power distibution point? I can't make out in the factory manual where to test from to find my loose connection.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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On a similar note, the rear window does not go down. Tested switch and plug and it appears to be ok but no power reaches rear plug in tailgate to regulator. Conditions do not seem to change whith the switch in different positions. The reg and motor work fine when directly powered both up and down.
 

Last edited by jghjunk; Jan 31, 2011 at 02:33 PM. Reason: missing part
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:28 PM
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You have checked the wiring at the t-gate for shorts or broken wires? esp where it pivots and at the plug inside the driver taillight. Have had these wires break and short out.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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Haven't traced them inside the bed wall. It's possible. I will try that out next.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Any kind of voltage spike like that is a voltage regulator issue. The ONLY way to get a voltage spike other than a failing voltage regulator would require putting a capacitor in the circuits affected. And since there aren't any you have regulator issues. Sooner or later that spiking will kill lamps and other devices because an un-regulated alternator can send as much as 30+ volts DC through the electrical system... a situation that will kill things like the main computer to mention just one critical component.

The over-voltage will melt down the coils inside the relays in the truck and cause any automatic resetting circuit breakers (like the ones for the tailgate and the headlights) to trip. The EEC power relay and any other relay or circuit board is subject to damage this way as well.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:48 PM
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Regulator just got swapped last week. While at idle RPM (~800) the truck is fine, no spikes or cut outs.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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What model year are you dealing with?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:35 PM
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95 XLT 5.8L
 
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