When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am looking at trading in my 2008 Dodge 2500 6.7 diesel for a 2008 Ford F-250 6.8 crew cab truck has 48K miles on it. Please school me on what to look out for, and am I making a smart decision.
I only pull a 25' fifth wheel 10 times are year or so. I don't really want to go in to why I am selling my Dodge other then the emissions SUCK, and I had to delete everything for it to work right.
I have owned many Fords in the past such as 1990 I6 300, 1978 F150 351, 1979 460. I have not owned one past 1990. Since then I have owned 3 Dodge Rams all diesels 2002,2004.5 (BEST ONE), and 2008. I have also owned one Chevy Durajap 2005 (POS) IMO.
Just bought an '08 V10 in September. Love it. I pull a 10k 5th wheel with it. The transmission with tow-haul is great with the integrated brake controller.
Not sure of your pin weight of your RV but you may find the rear of the truck might sit a little low when hooked up. As a result you may notice a slight drive-line vibration when taking off hard from a stop. There is a TSB on it.
I am going to put airbags on in the spring. That will eliminate the sag and drive-line vibration.
You might want to be sure to test drive the sd over potholes/ rail road tracks at good highway speed to be sure the steering is solid. Also look for broken exhaust manifold bolts and/or hissing around the exhaust manifolds.
Will it be your daily driver? Depending on how many miles you drive a day you may want to consider the miles per gallon if you have a real heavy right foot it could be 10 or less But if that does not bother you you will love the truck. I can get 14mpgs on the highway with mine if I try hard.
There's not a whole lot that can go wrong with the 2008 V10. I think in 2008, they went to the one-piece spark plug, and there's really nothing else we've ever heard of that's an issue.
If it was maintained well, it's great. Check under the oil fill cap and make sure there's no buildup of crud on the cap or anywhere inside the valve cover that you can see.
I am new on this site. I think you will like the truck-it runs like a sewing machine. It is the smoothest motor I have ever owned-I have seen some with over 100K and they are still smooth! I bought a used 2008 F250 4X4 V10 with 17K miles to pull a new 31 Ft Colorado 5th wheel. Dry it is 7000+ , loaded it is 10,000+. No problem pulling it. Just turn on the tow/haul and watch it roll-it truly is a piece of work. I have no sag but my truck has a tow package on it-I would look for that-it has a heavier spring package, tow mirrors and built in brake controller. The tranny also helps you brake. Trying to marry a diesel with the EPA creates serious problems. Good luck
It will take a little time to get used to the difference between the low end grunt of a Diesel and the high revving characteristics of the v10. Don't expect the same fuel economy you were used to with your Diesel. Just let the V10 rev and you will be surprised what it can do.
Compared to your old 460:
MORE power and better fuel economy.
But will need to run it about 1000 - 1500 rpm higher when working. That was the hardest thing for me to get used to, the very different sound. The 460 was a grunter, the v10 is a singer. Let her rev.
As with any engine with aluminum heads, I do recommend changing plugs every 50K just to prevent the steel threads from fusing to aluminum head. 100K if you use anti-size.
So far sounds good. Right now we are haggling over the price on trade difference. Currently we are at my truck and $2,900, I want to be at my truck and $2,000 at most. This is an 2008 F-250 XLT Lariat with a 6.8. I thought the spark plugs did not need to be changed until 100K miles.
From what I have read on this site the plugs want to fuse to the aluminum head and are hard to get out if you wait that long to pull them. Their is good advise on this site to soak them with blaster overnight and blow out all the crud around the plug before you try to pull them. Also torque them when you install. I have never torque a plug in my 40 years of driving but I am going to heed the advise of theses guys.
From what I have read on this site the plugs want to fuse to the aluminum head and are hard to get out if you wait that long to pull them. Their is good advise on this site to soak them with blaster overnight and blow out all the crud around the plug before you try to pull them. Also torque them when you install. I have never torque a plug in my 40 years of driving but I am going to heed the advise of theses guys.
Is this the case even on the newer trucks like this 2008?
Well, the older (pre 2003.5 i believe) heads didn't have enough threads in them, so if the plugs were overtorqued (weakening the threads) or undertorqued (backing out) they had a tendency to "blow out". Bad day.
After 2003.5 they started putting more threads in the heads, so torque was not AS critical. The heads are still aluminum though, and a dab of antizieze can go a long way to preventing the discimilar metals from welding together.
With that said, every bolt (including the plugs) on your truck has a torque spec for a reason. If you don't have a torque wrench in your hand, you had better not be wrenching on my truck.
I believe the spec is 14 lb-ft for the plugs (at least on the later 2003's)... i gaurantee you will apply WAY too much torque if you install them without a torque wrench.
So if I take this truck to a Ford dealer when it has 100K miles on it to have to plugs done in the future. Do I have to worry about some big bill because of a spark plug getting stuck in the head or messing the threads in the head, or is not an issue on a 2008 6.8.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.